We are lucky enough to have brilliant cameras in our smartphones. To get full control over these cameras, we may need an application. By exploring the best long-exposure apps, we will tell you which is best for smartphone photography. 

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8 Best Long-Exposure Camera Apps

Here are the nine best long-exposure apps for you to try. We have a mix of iOS and Android options.

But before starting with long-exposure photography, don’t forget to get a mount and tripod for your phone! They are just as essential for phones as for cameras.

1. ReeHeld

Smartphone Store	Smartphone Store iOS
Other Manual Photo Options	Other Manual Photo Options No
Paid	Paid Yes (10 Free Images)
Watch Integration?	Watch Integration? No
Key Services	Key Services Simple application to make long exposures with ease
Best For	Best For Photographers who want to make long exposures in the simplest way possible

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ReeHeld

reeflexstore.com

$1.00

Buy Now!

Our favorite long-exposure app is ReeHeld. Thanks to its easy-to-use interface and simplistic design, it allows you to create long-exposure photographs with ease. 

This app allows you to shoot up to 30-second exposures. It also claims that you do not need a tripod as it has AI stabilization. However, a tripod does make the results much better. 

ReeHeld is a paid app, but it lets you take ten free long exposures. So, if you are unsure about this application, try it out for yourself! 

This long-exposure app is dedicated to producing long-exposures. This application would suit photographers who do not want an extensive camera app. 

2. ProCamera

Smartphone Store	Smartphone Store iOS
Other Manual Photo Options	Other Manual Photo Options Yes
Paid	Paid Yes
Watch Integration?	Watch Integration? Yes
Key Services	Key Services Complete control over your smartphone camera
Best For	Best For Photographers who want to use their smartphone to its full capability

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ProCamera

procamera-app.com

$1.00

Buy Now!

ProCamera is a camera app with advanced manual settings. It’s designed to give you a DSLR-like photography experience.

Besides other settings—like ISO and exposure compensation—it lets you adjust the shutter speed. This feature makes this app suitable for taking long exposures with an iPhone.

You can set it to shutter priority or manual mode for complete control. After you have a shot with a slow shutter speed, you can edit it within the app.

Quality always comes with a price. This popular application is the most expensive on this list. But if you shoot a lot with your phone, it’s worth the relatively low price.

3. Slow Shutter Cam

Smartphone Store	Smartphone Store iOS
Other Manual Photo Options	Other Manual Photo Options Yes
Paid	Paid Yes
Watch Integration?	Watch Integration? No
Key Services	Key Services Provides a small screen inside your screen for a 'live' view of image as it is being made
Best For	Best For Photographers who are looking for a dedicated slow shutter speed application

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Slow Shutter Cam

cogitap.com

$1.00

Buy Now!

The Slow Sutter Cam app is the most popular for long exposures on an iPhone. It even has a hashtag on Instagram you can follow if you want to see pictures taken with this app.

After opening the app, you must click on the Settings icon to adjust them manually. You can also choose from several built-in presets for specific scenarios.

These include Light Trail, Motion Blur, and Low-Light presets. With this app, you can achieve long-exposure effects with your phone that wouldn’t have been possible before.

Slow Shutter Cam will help you bring the most out of your long-exposure photos. And it is available for a low price.

4. ProShot

Smartphone Store	Smartphone Store iOS, Android
Other Manual Photo Options	Other Manual Photo Options Yes
Paid	Paid Yes
Watch Integration?	Watch Integration? No
Key Services	Key Services Simple interface with great control
Best For	Best For People who want advanced shutter control with simplicity

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ProShot

ProShot

$1.00

Buy Now!

ProShot is a full-featured photography app for Android smartphones. The app is jam-packed with tools to help you develop your smartphone photography skills.

You have automatic, semi-automatic, and fully manual controls. That means anyone from beginner to experienced users can use this app with great success.

You have control over the aperture, ISO, and, of course, shutter speed. You can select long shutter speeds. Or you can use the manual shutter to give yourself even more creative control.

But it’s not just the basic exposure controls. You can shoot time-lapse videos. There are HDR and bokeh effects to add new layers to your smartphone photos.

5. Easy Long Exposure Camera

Smartphone Store	Smartphone Store iOS
Other Manual Photo Options	Other Manual Photo Options No
Paid	Paid No (Pro version available)
Watch Integration?	Watch Integration? No
Key Services	Key Services Long exposure app strictly for photographing in dark spaces
Best For	Best For Astrophotographers or night time photographers

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Easy Long Exposure Camera

apple.com

$1.00

Buy Now!

Another great long-exposure app is Easy Long Exposure Camera. This application is dedicated to low-light and night photography. This makes it perfect for astrophotographers and those who want to take star trail photographs. 

This application lets you take exposures up to 180 seconds long! This is an incredible amount of time. 

One of the best features of this app is that it is free! A paid option allows you to adjust the ISO and apply noise reduction to your photographs. 

Easy Long Exposure Camera is another application that simplifies long exposures. There are no distracting features, and everything is controlled through sliders. We highly recommend this as one of the best long exposure apps for astrophotography. 

6. Camera+: Pro Camera & Editor

Smartphone Store	Smartphone Store iOS
Other Manual Photo Options	Other Manual Photo Options Yes
Paid	Paid Yes
Watch Integration?	Watch Integration? No
Key Services	Key Services Allows you to use presets for added style
Best For	Best For Free application but comes with ads

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Camera+: Pro Camera & Editor

apple.com

$1.00

Buy Now!

Camera+ is one of the most popular camera apps for phones. It gives manual control over shutter speed and ISO. It also offers image stabilization, RAW file shooting, and editing to enhance images.

With this app’s built-in presets, you can edit your images for specific purposes. These include macro or action photography.

The Slow Shutter preset makes it possible to take long-exposure photos even in daylight!

To access manual mode at all times, go to Advanced Controls and choose “always show.” You can choose either full manual or shutter priority mode.

This app is about twice the price of the other apps on this list. But it has a free option with ads. The paid options may be worth it for all the manual settings and features you get.

7. Manual Camera DSLR

Smartphone Store	Smartphone Store Android
Other Manual Photo Options	Other Manual Photo Options Yes
Paid	Paid Yes
Watch Integration?	Watch Integration? No
Key Services	Key Services Packed with options for manual controls
Best For	Best For Android users who want a fully customisable camera app

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Manual Camera DSLR

google.com

$1.00

Buy Now!

Manual Camera DSLR allows you to have manual control over your phone’s camera. The interface reminds the user of DSLR cameras.

It also lets you control the shutter speed for long-exposure shots. You can even record videos using the manual settings this app provides you.

This manual camera DSLR app is accessible for Android devices. It has a free version, but it doesn’t give you access to the app’s full capabilities.

8. Long Exposure: Motion ProCam

Smartphone Store	Smartphone Store Android
Other Manual Photo Options	Other Manual Photo Options No
Paid	Paid Yes
Watch Integration?	Watch Integration? No
Key Services	Key Services Easy interface to work through for custom controls
Best For	Best For Android users who want a simple long exposure application

×

Long Exposure: Motion ProCam

google.com

$1.00

Buy Now!

As the name suggests, Long Exposure is an app dedicated to long-exposure photography. And anyone can produce stunning images with this app.

It doesn’t have a wide range of photography features like other apps. But it makes long-exposure photography easy and accessible. The controls couldn’t be simpler.

You select the exposure time and shoot. If you’re shooting day or night, the camera sorts out the other exposure settings. All you need to do is keep the camera in position. The app does have stabilization. But it only works for exposures up to five seconds.

A smartphone or mini tripod is the best solution for longer exposure times. And the Long Exposure app allows you to shoot for up to 20 minutes!

If you feel limited by the basic app, you can upgrade to the premium account. It gives you more manual controls. And you can shoot in RAW file formats. That’s perfect for fine-tuning your images using photo editing apps or software.

When Should You Use a Long-Exposure App?

We use a slower shutter speed than usual when taking long-exposure photos. By leaving the shutter open for a longer time, we can achieve certain effects that give a unique look to our photos.

Generally, we talk about long-exposure photography when the shutter speed is slow enough to blur motion. This usually means setting it to seconds instead of fractions of seconds.

Photographers usually use this technique when they are aiming to blur motion:

• Landscape photographers take long exposures to make moving water smooth and silky.
• During night photography, it is used to create light trails of traffic.
• Astrophotographers use it to let more light hit the sensor, thus capturing the stars.

You can also think of using a long exposure creatively. You can blur people in the street or capture motion during sports. You can even use it to draw with light in the dark.

You might think you are missing out on these opportunities if you don’t have a camera. Luckily, all this becomes possible with long-exposure apps.

Conclusion: Best Long-Exposure Apps

Long-exposure photography is an experimental technique you should try in your photography. It comes in handy in several niches of photography.

It gives your pictures a unique look. And with these apps, you don’t need a DSLR camera to take long exposures!

We hope you find the best long-exposure camera app to help you explore this technique more. If you want to explore another technique more, try our Total Time-Lapse video course to capture beautiful moments with motion.

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Keeping the camera’s shutter open for an extended period can create stunning visual effects. So, we explain everything you need to know to take long exposures effectively. Click the links in each section to delve into each subject more deeply.

Video Course

Infinite Exposures

Unlock the secrets of captivating photography with this Video Course:

• Learn to photograph waterfalls, waves, sunsets, and stars effortlessly
• Discover how to balance movement and stillness in your shots
• Master exposure settings easily, with or without a filter

What Is Long-Exposure Photography?

Long exposure photography generally refers to a certain shutter speed. It is longer than the normally very small fraction of a second used, and the exact length of that exposure can vary.

Motion blur can occur with fast-moving subjects, such as 1/60 s (seconds), at relatively fast shutter speeds. The key to mastering long-exposure photography is knowing the effects of shutter speed selection and using them to your advantage. Use these jump links to go where needed:

1. Long-exposure photography techniques
2. With natural phenomenon
3. With artificial light
4. Other photography niches
5. Long exposure using a smartphone
6. Recommended photography gear
7. Learning resource

Long-Exposure Techniques

It might involve playing with the ISO settings for a slow shutter speed, choosing a high f-stop, or using a neutral density (ND) filter. Whatever it takes, we have compiled a wide range of articles with advice on mastering the rather mesmerizing world of long-exposure photography.

It can be counterintuitive at first. We work hard to prevent blurry photos, but now we want to do it deliberately!

Ideas and Examples

Long-exposure photography is a fun way to capture movement in your images. The key is to use a slow shutter speed to blur moving elements like water, clouds, or people.

You can take long exposure photos almost anywhere. Try shooting busy roads at night to capture colorful light trails from passing cars. Or head to the coast and use a slow shutter to smooth out crashing waves for a silky, ethereal effect.

Waterfalls are classic long-exposure subjects, often with blurred, soft water tumbling over rocks. They look stunning! You can also get creative with light painting—use flashlights or sparklers to “draw” words or shapes while your shutter is open.

The possibilities are endless! These are just some long-exposure photography ideas you can try to create unique, artistic images.

Bulb Mode

Bulb mode lets you keep the shutter open for as long as you press the shutter button. This setting is ideal for capturing better long exposures.

Remember, we don’t want everything to be blurred. So, to avoid any camera shake, use a remote shutter release when shooting in bulb mode. A tripod is also important for sharper long-exposure photos.

You may need a neutral density filter to extend the shutter speed when using bulb mode. A polarizing filter can also help remove reflections and saturate colors. Graduated neutral density filters are useful for controlling the exposure.

Take time to learn to love your camera’s histogram. It can help you understand the exposure. And you see errors that are not noticeable on the camera’s screen.

One issue with bulb mode is that light can change during the exposure, especially at dawn or dusk. To avoid this, take test shots to check the exposure and histogram. Then, use an app like PhotoPills to calculate the final exposure time with your ND filter.

Bulb mode can also make bad compositions more evident. So, when framing your shot, be mindful of moving elements like clouds, water, and light trails. To learn more about bulb mode, check out our in-depth guide.

Long-Exposure Calculator

Long-exposure photography captures motion in a scene. Shutter speed controls the blur in moving elements like water and clouds. The longer the shutter is open, the more motion you capture.

ND filters reduce the light reaching the sensor (or film). They let you use slower shutter speeds in bright conditions.

A long exposure calculator helps determine the right shutter speed based on the ND filter you use. Enter your base shutter speed without the filter. The calculator then shows the adjusted shutter speed for each filter density.

Long-exposure calculators are available as smartphone apps and printable charts. They make finding the perfect shutter speed easy for creating stunning long-exposure images. We put together an easy guide to using a long-exposure calculator so you can try it yourself.

Creative Slow Shutter Speeds

A slow shutter speed is a powerful tool for creating dynamic and interesting photos. Motion blur captures moving elements while the camera stays still, giving the image a sense of movement. Panning follows a moving object, keeping it sharp while blurring the background.

Kinetic movements, like zoom bursts and camera rotations, create blur through camera motion rather than subject motion. Daytime long exposures use ND filters to capture dramatic effects in bright light.

Photographing clouds and water with slow shutter speeds can add texture and mood to your images. Light painting involves moving a light source in front of a camera or illuminating specific objects during a long exposure.

To learn more about the creative possibilities of slow shutter speed photography, check out our in-depth guide.

Motion Blur

Motion blur is when moving objects appear blurred because they move during the exposure. It can add a sense of speed and dynamism to your photos. To capture motion blur, you need a camera that allows manual settings and a tripod to keep the camera steady.

Use a slow shutter speed to keep the shutter open long enough to record the movement. The exact setting depends on the subject’s speed and how much blur you want.

You can also use panning to capture motion blur. Follow the moving subject with your camera using a slow shutter speed. The subject will be sharp while the background blurs.

Capturing moving clouds, water, and lights is another great way to use motion blur creatively. Motion blur is a simple way to add interest to your photos.

Advanced Motion Blur

If that has whetted your appetite for motion blur photography, we have 50 more ideas! Photographers can blur moving subjects like people, cars, and water using a slow shutter speed. This technique adds a sense of energy and life to photos.

To create motion blur, you need a camera with manual settings. It’s also best to use a tripod. 

Set a slow shutter speed, usually 1/60 s or slower. Then, as you press the shutter button, move your camera in the same direction as your subject. This panning technique keeps your subject in focus while blurring the background.

You can find great motion blur subjects in busy cities, sports events, and even nature. Waterfalls and clouds make excellent subjects. With practice, you can capture dynamic and artistic images. Our full article on motion blur photography has all 50 tips.

Camera Movement

Intentional camera movement (ICM) is a creative photography technique in which you move your camera during a long exposure. This technique adds motion blur and abstract effects to your images.

You can achieve great results by slowing down your shutter speed and moving your camera in different ways.

To start with ICM, you need a camera that lets you change the shutter speed. A tripod can help you control your movements better. And a wide-angle zoom lens makes the effects more obvious. ND filters are also useful for slowing your shutter speed in bright conditions.

There are many ways to create ICM effects. You can pan your camera to follow a moving subject, move it in a straight line, or rotate it around an imaginary axis.

Zooming your lens during the exposure or randomly moving your camera can also give interesting results. The key is to experiment and find what works best for your subject.

Intentional camera movement is a fun way to add creativity to your photography. You can create unique, eye-catching images that stand out with some practice.

Panning

Panning is a photography technique that captures moving subjects while blurring the background. This camera technique creates a sense of motion in the image. To achieve this effect, use a slow shutter speed between 1/15 and 1/200 s, depending on the speed of your subject.

Next, move your camera along with the subject, matching its speed to keep it sharp while the background blurs. A camera strap can help stabilize your movement for a smooth panning shot.

Adjust your shutter speed based on the subject’s distance and speed, using a faster shutter for closer subjects. Experiment with different settings to find the right amount of motion blur.

Panning takes practice, so don’t get discouraged if your first attempts aren’t perfect. Stand further back from your subject to make tracking easier. Use a wide-angle lens for the best results.

With some trial and error, you’ll soon capture dynamic, eye-catching images that convey a strong sense of movement. Explore our comprehensive guide to dive deeper into the art of panning.

Exposure Stacking

Exposure stacking is a technique that combines multiple exposures into a single image. It’s especially useful for daytime long-exposure photography when there’s too much light, even with ND filters.

To exposure stack, set up your camera on a tripod and take a series of shorter exposures that add up to the total exposure time you want. For instance, you can use eight 30-second exposures to simulate a single four-minute exposure.

In Photoshop, load the images as layers into a single file. Align the layers and convert them to Smart Objects. Then, go to Layer > Smart Objects > Stack Mode > Mean to blend the exposures into a smooth, long exposure look.

Further exposure stacking can help you create stunning daytime long exposures.

180-Degree Shutter Rule

The 180-degree shutter rule is a simple way to create cinematic motion blur in your photos. It states that you should keep your shutter open twice as long as the frame rate of your video. So, if you shoot at 24 fps (frames per second), you should keep your shutter open for 1/48 s.

This rule helps capture motion blur that looks natural to the human eye. Too little motion blur can make a video look odd, while too much can make moving objects blurry and unusable. The 180-degree shutter angle provides a good balance.

Consider the interval between each frame when applying this rule to time-lapse photography. The shutter speed should be half the interval time to follow the 180-degree rule.

For example, a two-second interval needs a one-second shutter speed. Our in-depth article explains the 180-degree shutter rule in more detail.

 

Long Exposure in Nature

Long exposures can reveal new and hidden beauty in natural phenomena. Rivers, waterfalls, seas, and lakes take on a surprising look. Lightning and meteors amaze us when captured with a long exposure.

Landscape

Long-exposure landscape photography can take your images to the next level. Look for overcast weather to add more interest to your photos, and track the sun’s position to avoid overexposed areas. Scout the location beforehand to get a preview of your composition.

Use a tripod and focus a third of the way into the scene for sharp results. Lower your ISO to minimize digital noise and learn to read the histogram for better exposure.

An ND filter can enhance your long-exposure photography. Plus, experimenting with Bulb mode can produce exciting results.

Be prepared to act fast before a scene changes, and set aside enough time to ensure you get the shot you want. Finally, you can use post-processing to stack your images for a long exposure effect without filters.

We have many more ideas in our full article if you want to learn about long-exposure landscape photography.

Water Tips

To capture that soft, misty water effect in your photos, you need to master long-exposure photography. Start by finding a safe location with plenty of room to shoot from different angles.

Use a slow shutter speed to create a silky look. Experiment with various speeds to find what works best for you.

A neutral density filter is essential in bright light to prevent overexposure in your water photos. Always use a tripod and remote to avoid unwanted motion blur. Try photographing water from unusual angles to make your images stand out.

Want to learn more about water photography? Our in-depth guide covers everything from the best settings to creative techniques for capturing stunning water shots.

On the Beach

Long-exposure beach photography can create stunning shots uniquely showcasing the beach’s beauty. A sturdy tripod is essential to avoid camera shake caused by wind or waves hitting the tripod.

ND filters are also important tools for long exposures. They reduce the amount of light entering the camera.

Shooting from the top of a cliff can help smooth out the waves and create a level sea with soft color transitions. This composition works best with rugged elements like cliffs and fast-moving clouds.

Another technique is to create a foggy water effect by using a long exposure of at least 20 seconds. This setting averages the movement of the waves.

You can capture water trails by shooting receding water with an exposure time of 1/2 s to two seconds. Ultra-long exposures of 30 seconds or more can completely smooth out the water and clouds, creating a surreal effect.

To learn more about long-exposure beach photography, check out our in-depth article.

Lightning

Photographing lightning takes practice, but there are strategies to improve your shots. Check the weather to predict when lightning will strike, and choose a suitable location with a clear view of the storm. Use a sturdy tripod to keep your camera steady in strong winds.

An intervalometer can help you take sharp photos without touching the camera. Protect your gear from water damage with a lens filter, rain sleeve, or even a plastic bag. Two main approaches to capturing lightning are long exposure and a specialized trigger.

You keep the shutter open with long exposure, hoping to capture a strike. A trigger detects changes in light levels and automatically takes the photo at the right moment.

Whichever method you choose, stay safe and be patient. We have an in-depth guide that explains how to photograph lightning.

Meteor Showers

To photograph meteor showers, use a wide-angle lens or fisheye on a tripod. Set your camera to manual mode with a wide aperture, high ISO, and a 30-second exposure time. Then, turn off image stabilization and autofocus.

Choose a dark location away from light pollution. To complement the sky, include an interesting foreground like a building or tree. For the best results, frame the area where the meteor shower originates.

Be patient and take many shots, as meteors can be rare, even during a shower. You can stack your images together in post-processing to capture more meteors in a single frame.

To photograph meteor showers successfully, dedicate a few hours to the process and enjoy the experience!

Sunsets

Capturing stunning long-exposure sunsets requires the right tools and techniques. A sturdy tripod is essential to avoid camera shake during longer exposures.

Use a wide or mid-range lens and a small aperture like f/11 or higher to create a deep depth of field. This setting keeps both the foreground and background in focus.

To create motion effects, use shutter speeds of several seconds or more. This setting blurs moving elements like water, grass, and clouds. ND filters can help reduce light entering the lens, allowing for longer exposures even in brighter conditions.

Watch out for blown-out highlights when using long exposures. Use a remote shutter release or your camera’s timer to minimize vibration.

With practice and experimentation, you can create beautiful long-exposure sunset photos. They showcase the beauty and motion of the natural world.

There is much to learn about the best techniques for capturing long-exposure sunsets, so look at our detailed guide. It covers everything you need to know.

 

Long Exposure With Artificial Light

It isn’t just nature that can provide you with the right light for stunning long-exposure photos. You can use all sorts of artificial light sources. Flashlights, phones, fireworks, and sparklers are tools you can use.

Light Painting

Spiral light painting is a fun and creative photography technique. It involves using a long exposure and moving a light source in a spiral pattern. This technique creates beautiful, colorful swirls of light in your image.

To create spiral light paintings, use a toy lightsaber or a light source with a long shaft. Start with your back to the camera, then turn on your light and point it down as the shutter opens. Slowly turn while lifting the light above your head, staying in one spot to keep the spiral neat.

With some practice, you can create stunning spiral light photography images. Experiment with different light sources and interact with your background for unique results. If you want to learn more about spiral light photography, we think you’ll want to read our guide.

Light Trails

Light-trail photography is a fantastic way to capture the energy and motion of a city at night. To create stunning light trail images, you need a camera with manual settings, a sturdy tripod, and a remote shutter release.

Set your camera to a low ISO, an aperture between f/4 and f/11, and a shutter speed of 10 to 30 seconds.

Choose busy locations like long avenues, roundabouts, or bridges to photograph the flowing traffic. Including famous landmarks or buildings in your composition can add interest and context to your light trail photos.

Experiment with different focal lengths to achieve various effects. Try wide-angle shots showcasing the surrounding environment and telephoto images that compress the trails into the distance. Light-trail photography is a creative and exciting way to capture the pulse of a city after dark.

Light Graffiti

Light graffiti is a fun and creative way to experiment with long-exposure photography. Set your camera to Manual mode and use a slow shutter speed.

This setting lets you paint or draw with light sources. You can use flashlights, sparklers, or even your phone while the camera’s shutter is open.

Depth of field is important for creating sharp, focused, light graffiti images. Use manual focus or shine a light on your subject to focus, then switch to manual to prevent the camera from refocusing.

A narrow aperture (f/8 or higher) provides a deeper depth of field. But this setting requires longer exposures and higher ISO.

Experiment with different light sources and have fun with them! You can even play light graffiti games with friends, like drawing pictures for others to guess. Light graffiti is a great way to explore light painting and add a unique twist to your night photography.

More Light Painting

As we’ve seen, light painting photography is a fun and creative way to capture unique images. Again, you need a camera with manual settings, a tripod, and a light source like a flashlight or sparkler.

Set your camera to a slow shutter speed and low ISO. Then, focus in the dark using a flashlight. When you’re ready, press the shutter button. Next, move your light source to “paint” shapes, words, or designs while the shutter is open.

Experiment with different lights and movements to create interesting effects. You can even try kinetic light painting by moving your camera instead of the light source.

Light painting works well in dark studios or outdoors at night. You can create stunning photographs that blend reality with abstract designs with a little practice.

Read our article to learn more about light painting photography. It has plenty of tips and ideas to boost your creativity.

Fireworks

Photographing fireworks can be challenging. But with the right gear and techniques, you can capture impressive shots. Use a tripod to keep your camera steady during long exposures. Set your camera to manual mode and shoot in RAW format for the best results.

Start with an aperture of f/11 and adjust as needed. Use a slow shutter speed of at least 1/20 s or try Bulb Mode to control the exposure time. Keep your ISO low, around 100 to 200, to avoid noise in the dark sky.

Focus manually on the area where the fireworks will explode. Vary your composition by changing your angle, zooming in or out, and including foreground elements like silhouettes or landmarks.

When editing, adjust clarity, contrast, highlights, shadows, saturation, and vibrance to bring out the details and colors of the fireworks. To learn more about photographing fireworks, check out our in-depth guide.

Sparklers

Sparkler photography is a fun and creative way to add magic to still-life images. To get started, gather props like sparklers, matches, and other items for your scene. Then, choose a light source, whether natural light or studio lights.

Build your set one object at a time, starting with larger items and moving to smaller details. Use two lights to illuminate your scene or one light and a reflector. Stick the sparkler in a cork or bend the end to keep it steady to prevent motion blur.

Adjust your camera settings for well-exposed shots. Use a shutter speed between 1/100 and 1/10 s and high-speed continuous shooting mode. You can also photograph sparklers inside jars or make glowing figures with tracing paper.

In post-processing, choose the best shot and make minor adjustments to tone and contrast. Sparkler photography offers endless possibilities for creative still-life images.

 

Other Long-Exposure Niches

Human creativity has almost no limits. So, you will find photographers who have used long exposures in various photography styles. Slow shutter speeds are deployed almost everywhere, not just in landscapes and waterscapes.

Time-Lapse

Long-exposure time-lapse photography combines the techniques of long exposure and time-lapse. It creates surreal and captivating videos! You need a camera, lens, intervalometer, tripod, and ND filter to shoot a long-exposure time-lapse.

Choose a busy location to capture more movement and create eye-catching light trails. Shoot in manual mode to maintain consistent camera settings throughout the time-lapse. Use a slow shutter speed of three to ten seconds to create the smooth, long-exposure effect.

Manually focus your camera to avoid inconsistencies, and use an ND filter to prevent overexposure in bright daylight. For the best results time-lapse, set your intervalometer to the desired interval and number of photos using a long exposure time-lapse calculator.

Portraits

Long-exposure portraits create dream-like effects by keeping the camera shutter open for several seconds or even minutes. This records movement as blurry streaks, perfect for surrealistic portraits.

To best shoot long-exposure portraits, use a tripod, remote shutter release, and a light source like continuous lights, strobes, or even a phone screen. Find a dark location to avoid overexposure and unwanted light streaks.

Experiment with light painting by moving a portable light source to draw patterns or words that appear as light streaks. You can also move the camera or ask your subject to move for creative effects.

Long-exposure portraits require patience and many test shots to find the best settings and techniques. But the magical results are worth it!

Daytime

Daytime, long-exposure photography captures the beauty of motion in well-lit scenes. You need a camera with manual settings, a sturdy tripod, and neutral density (ND) filters to create this effect.

ND filters reduce the amount of light entering your lens. This filter lets you use slower shutter speeds without overexposing the image. When composing your shot, look for moving elements like water, clouds, or crowds of people.

Set your camera to Manual or Shutter Priority mode. Start with a low ISO and small aperture (like f/16) to limit the light hitting your sensor. The shutter speed depends on the day’s brightness, the strength of the ND filter, and the speed of motion in your scene.

Experiment with different shutter speeds to find the perfect balance of motion blur and texture. We have an excellent article to help you master daytime long exposure.

Night Cityscapes

Capturing stunning cityscapes at night requires the right gear and techniques. A fast lens with a wide aperture like f/1.2 or f/1.8 is essential for letting in more light. Use a tripod and remote trigger to avoid camera shake and ensure sharp images.

Timing is key when shooting night cityscapes. Arrive 45 minutes before sunrise or sunset to capture the best light. Wait an hour or two after the sun completely sets for pitch-black skies.

Use a high ISO between 80 and 3,200 for optimal low-light performance without excessive noise. Compose your shot using the rule of thirds grid and focus manually using Live View.

Set your camera to Aperture Priority mode with the widest aperture setting, or use the 300 or 500 rule in Manual mode. Bracket your shots and consider applying HDR when editing to bring more details out.

Our in-depth guide offers many ideas for learning more about long-exposure night photography.

 

Long Exposure With a Smartphone

We are increasingly taking our photos with our smartphones. Even professionals often have smartphones with them more often than their fancy pro cameras. Part of the reason is that we can take increasingly sophisticated pictures with them, including long-exposure photography!

iPhone Long Exposure

Shooting long-exposure photos with an iPhone is easier than you think. Use a tripod to keep your phone stable and prevent blurry images. The native Camera app has a Live Photos feature that lets you apply a long-exposure effect to your shots.

For more control, use third-party apps like Camera+ 2, Slow Shutter Cam, or Procam 7. These apps let you adjust shutter speed and brightness to create light trails. ND filters can help you shoot long exposures in daylight by reducing the amount of light entering the lens.

You can also get creative with light painting by using a flashlight to draw shapes in the air. Don’t be afraid to experiment with different techniques, like swiping the camera or shooting while walking.

Editing your long-exposure shots with apps like VSCO or Lightroom Mobile can help improve contrast and color. To learn more about long-exposure iPhone photography, we have a detailed guide covering everything you need.

Long-Exposure Apps

There are other ways of taking long-exposure photos with your phone, whether you have an iPhone or an Android. Several excellent long-exposure apps are available for both operating systems.

These apps give you manual control over the camera settings, like shutter speed and ISO. This control lets you take long exposures, even in daylight. Some apps also have built-in presets for specific scenarios, like light trails or low light.

Using a long-exposure app, you can capture smooth, silky water or light trails at night. You can also get creative by blurring motion in street scenes or sports.

Are you interested (who wouldn’t be?) in learning more about the best long-exposure apps? If so, take a look at our detailed guide.

Light Painting With a Smartphone

Light painting is a fun and creative photography technique that captures the movement of light in a scene. You don’t need expensive equipment to do it. A decent smartphone with manual settings or a long-exposure camera app does the trick.

You need a tripod or a stable surface to rest your phone on to get started. To avoid any camera shake, use a camera remote or self-timer. You can also use an LED light, flashlight, or even another smartphone as the light source.

Experiment with different exposure times and light sources to create unique effects. You can capture traffic light trails or “paint” letters and shapes in the air.

With some practice, you can create stunning, ethereal images using your smartphone. Our guide to light painting with a phone offers these and many other inspiring ideas.

iPhone Night Photography

Capturing stunning night photos with your iPhone is easier than you think. Start by using a third-party app like Camera+ 2 that lets you adjust exposure settings manually. These apps let you use a low shutter speed or wide aperture to capture dark scenes.

When shooting handheld, keep your shutter speed between 1/120 and 1/60 s. Set your ISO between 400 and 800 to minimize noise.

For longer exposures, stabilize your phone on a tripod and use the camera timer to avoid shaking. Activate HDR mode to capture a wider range of highlights and shadows.

Timing is key. Start shooting during the blue hour just before sunrise or after sunset for vivid skies and ample ambient light. Find bright areas with artificial lighting to create beautiful contrasts without raising your ISO.

Try long exposures to capture light streaks from moving cars for creative effects. With some practice and our iPhone night photography tips, you’ll capture stunning low-light images in no time!

 

Long-Exposure Photography Gear

As we have seen, you don’t need a fancy camera to get great results. But some things like a tripod make the task so much easier.

Tripods

A sturdy tripod is essential for long-exposure photography. It provides stability and support to capture sharp images in any environment.

The best tripods are lightweight yet durable. They’re easy to carry on long hikes or expeditions. Look for aluminum or carbon fiber tripods, as these materials are strong and resistant to the elements.

Adjustable legs and a versatile head are also important features. They let you set up your camera on uneven terrain and at different angles. Ball heads and pan-tilt heads are popular choices that provide flexibility and precision.

With the right tripod, you can focus on composing stunning long-exposure shots. It will hold your camera steady, even in low light or windy conditions. A tripod is a worthwhile investment that improves your images.

If you’d like to learn more about tripods, our article on tripods for landscape photography provides additional information and recommendations.

Our Top 3 Long-Exposure Photography Tripods

Manfrotto Element MII Tripod

Manfrotto Element MII Tripod

Vanguard Alta Pro 2+ 263AB 100

Vanguard Alta Pro 2+ 263AB 100

K&F Concept Lightweight Travel Tripod

K&F Concept Lightweight Travel Tripod

Lenses

The best lens for long-exposure photography needs sharp optics and a wide focal length. The Canon RF 14-35mm f/4L IS USM is our top pick. This beautiful zoom lens has an ultra-wide field of view and superior optical quality.

It has a Sub-Wavelength Structure and Air Sphere coatings on the glass to improve clarity. The f/4 to f/22 aperture range is ideal for long exposures. And it’s weather-resistant for outdoor use.

The Nikon NIKKOR Z 17-28mm f/2.8 and Sony FE 20-70mm f/4 G are great options. These lenses provide the wide angle needed for long-exposure photography and have the optical quality to match.

Our Top 3 Long-Exposure Photography Lenses

Canon RF 14-35mm F/4L IS USM

Canon RF 14-35mm F/4L IS USM

Nikon NIKKOR Z 17-28mm F/2.8

Nikon NIKKOR Z 17-28mm F/2.8

Sony FE 20-70mm F/4 G SEL2070G

Sony FE 20-70mm F/4 G SEL2070G

ND Filters

An ND filter is handy for long exposures and a great way to remove people from your photos. It limits the light entering your camera, letting you use longer shutter speeds. This filter helps blur out moving objects, like people walking through the scene.

ND filters come in different strengths, from ND2 to ND100,000. A higher number means less light and longer exposure times. You’ll need to experiment to find the right strength for your shot.

For the best results, shoot in low light and avoid crowds. Place your camera on a tripod, set a long shutter speed, and attach your ND filter. Take a few test shots and adjust your settings until you get a well-exposed image with blurred-out people.

It takes practice, but an ND filter makes removing people from photos much easier.

Our Top 3 Long-Exposure Photography ND Filters

Cokin Nuances Extreme ND 10 Stop Filter

Cokin Nuances Extreme ND 10 Stop Filter

Lee Filters ProGlass IRND 6-Stop Filter

Lee Filters ProGlass IRND 6-Stop Filter

PolarPro Peter McKinnon Variable ND Filter (82mm)

PolarPro Peter McKinnon Variable ND Filter (82mm)

 

Long-Exposure Resource

We think there’s plenty here to get you started on a long exposure journey. We’ve reviewed a popular eBook if you’ve got the bug and want to know more.

Photzy Guide

Photzy’s Complete Guide to Long Exposure Photography is a good place to start for those interested in this technique. It covers the basic skills needed to analyze a composition while shooting and post-processing.

The eBook provides practical advice on setting up your shot, including potential problems you may encounter. The author, Kent DuFault, is cautious and precise in his instructions.

But the guide has some shortcomings. The graphics are confusing and lack professional design. Plus, many example photos look amateurish and don’t effectively illustrate the concepts.

You can learn more about Photzy through our review and decide if this eBook suits you.

We Highly Recommend

Photzy's Complete Guide to Long Exposure

Looking for information on long exposure photography? Photzy’s eBook has you covered! You learn to capture stunning long-exposure shots with step-by-step instructions and video tutorials.

 

But with light painting photography, light becomes the paint you daub on a canvas of darkness. You create shapes, pictures, and even words.

With light painting, you can create stunning and unique photographs. And if light painting photography is something new to you, we’ll show you how it’s done.

Versatile Lighting Tool

ULANZI Handheld Light Want

Get inspired to take your light painting photography to the next level with a portable and versatile handheld light wand that offers 88 high color rendering LED beads, adjustable hues and brightness, and 20 light effects.

What Is Light Painting Photography?

Light painting reminds us of children playing with sparklers on Bonfire Night! How you could use the red glow of the sparkler to write our names in the cold November darkness.

The principle of light painting photography is the same. You’re using a light source to paint a picture on a sheet of blackness.

But unlike the sparklers, the shapes don’t disappear into the darkness. The camera captures the light and holds it still.

When you first see a light painting photo, you might believe it’s a post-processing effect. Light drawing, or light graffiti as it’s sometimes known, is an effect you can achieve in your camera.

You use an artificial light source as your brush. You move it around your frame to create shapes and effects. And your camera is set with a long exposure to capture the entire journey of the light.

The long exposure reduces seconds or minutes of movement into one still photograph.

The light painting technique can be used to spice up many types of photography. Many astrological photographers use the technique to light the foreground in their shots.

You can add light painting to night landscapes or portraits. It works well with product, fashion, and even urban photography.

9 Tips For Light Painting Photography

You will need a few pieces of equipment. And you’ll need to have some knowledge about the exposure triangle.

But even if you’re a beginner photographer, we’ll take you through everything you’ll need to create amazing light painting photographs.

1. Get the Right Camera Equipment

To create the best light painting images, you need to have the right camera equipment. There’s nothing too fancy. But there are some essential times you’ll need for this technique.

Camera

The first thing you need is the right camera. The best option is a good quality DSLR camera with adjustable manual settings. They’ll give you the best settings and functions for light paintings.

Mirrorless cameras are great for light painting too. You need to make sure your mirrorless machine gives you the manual settings for light painting.

Light painting is possible with your smartphone camera. The newer iPhone models have a night mode on the camera, giving you enough creative input for light painting. The older models don’t have this mode. But you can get specific apps for light painting.

The smartphone apps can be great fun, but they don’t give you the flexibility of a DSLR camera. A DSLR gives you complete creative control, giving you the freedom to experiment.

Lens

The type of lens you use depends on the types of images you want to capture. A zoom lens isn’t necessary because you’re in control of your subject’s position. So a telephoto lens is also redundant.

A prime lens will work perfectly. And many light painting photographers like to use a wide-angle lens. They give greater scope for painting options.

A wider shot allows you to use broad, expansive stokes with your light painting brushes. You can use light to paint from one side of the image to the other.

Tripod

A tripod is essential for light painting with photography. You’ll be using a long shutter speed. As with all photography shoots involving long exposures, you need a steady camera.

Using a long exposure time without a tripod will result in blurry images. Your light paint strokes won’t be clear. And everything in the photo will be blurred and non-distinct. This is especially true when you’re working in the dark.

A tripod will make sure your images are free of camera shake. It will keep your images crisp and clear.

Wireless Shutter Release

Many members of the light painting community recommend a wireless shutter release button. They allow you to work away from the camera and still get the shot you need.

If you have an assistant or if you’re shooting a subject, you can press the shutter button yourself. But if you’re working alone, you can’t be in front and behind the camera at the same time.

With a wireless shutter release, you can work in front of the camera. You press the button and start painting with your light brushes. You don’t need to run from behind the camera while the shutter is open.

If your camera has Wi-Fi capabilities, you can use smartphone apps as a remote trigger. But they tend to be less reliable than a specialist device.

2. Go Manual With Your Camera Settings

If you have experience with night scenes or long exposure shooting, you might be familiar with some of this. But with light painting, the camera settings might not be as you expect.

Use your camera’s manual mode. You need to be in control so you can make adjustments. The auto-functions won’t understand what you’re trying to do.

Use a Slow Shutter Speed

For light paintings, you need a long exposure time and a slow shutter speed. And we’re talking seconds, if not minutes.

Many cameras have a 30-second shutter. This might be enough for what you want to draw. But if you do need more time, go for the manual bulb mode. It lets you decide when to open an d close the shutter.

Using the bulb mode makes a wireless shutter release all the more useful. It saves you from running from and to the camera. You can open and close the shutter from wherever you are.

Keep Your ISO Low

When shooting in dark situations, you might opt for a higher ISO setting. But with light paintings, you want to keep a low ISO.

You can go as low as ISO 200 or 100. The long exposure time will give enough light. And you want to maintain image quality with a noise-free ISO setting.

Use a Low Aperture

A lower aperture will allow more light into the camera. And the lowest f.stop on your lens is the best place to start.

A lower f.stop will give you a deeper depth of field, making it easier to focus. This is especially handy when shooting in the dark.

Once you’ve done a few test shots, you can adjust the aperture. You might want to reduce the amount of light. Or you might want to narrow your depth of field.

3. Get a Sharp Focus in The Dark

Getting a sharp focus can be difficult when you’re working in the dark. If you don’t have enough ambient light, it’s hard to get a fix on your subject, even with a manual focus.

The light source you use for light painting might not have much of an output. And you’re relying on a long exposure to get enough light for the final shot.

To help get the focus pre-shot, you can use a torch. Shine it on your subject while you make the adjustments on your camera.

Another excellent tip is to use a red light over your torchlight. It will still give you enough light so you can get in focus. But it means your eyes won’t have to keep adjusting to light and dark. You can keep your night vision with a red light.

4. Underexpose Your Test Shots

You’ll need to do test shots without the light painting to get your composition perfect. But when you’re shooting your tests, your instinct is to expose them correctly.

But when it comes to light painting techniques, it’s best to aim for an underexposed shot in your tests.

You need to compensate for the painting light you’re going to use in the final image. If your test is perfectly exposed, your final images will be overexposed due to the added light source.

Getting the exposure right before you shoot means there’s less trial and error. Once you start painting, you can focus on getting the shapes you want. And you don’t want the batteries to run out.

5. Experiment With Different Lights

One of the fun parts of light painting is that you can use a wide variety of lights as your brush. You don’t need a special kind of off-camera flash with a radio connection. You can use any light you have.

The type of light you choose is down to the kind of effect you want. You can use a steady off-camera light source for night sky images. You can illuminate an object in the foreground as well as the stars above.

If you’re on location, you’ll need something battery powered. Or you can use a light source that isn’t electric. Candles and sparklers can be excellent fun if you’re careful.

You can use colored lights. Or you can use color gels for your camera. Color gels are a transparent material you put over your camera lens. They are cheap and easy to carry around.

Fairy lights are a favourite with light painters. The multitude of small bulbs gives a soft effect. And when moved, they generate a lot of energy.

Maybe you have some glow sticks left over from the last rave you went to. Their soft colored light acts as a perfect brush on the canvas of night.

The source of light doesn’t have to be constant. Strobe lights make excellent light painting tools. They can give you a multi-exposure effect. Other flashing lights can also give you different textures and effects on your final image.

6. Experiment With Movement

Once you have your light sources, you can experiment by moving them in the dark. You can see what kind of paintbrush each light will be.

You can start by playing with the light in the dark. You don’t even need the camera. You can move the lights around in front of your eyes. Or if you have a friend, they can make shapes in front of you.

Think about what you want to paint. Is the light painting going to be an effect? Or is it going to be the subject?

If you’re doing portraits, you can place the lights in different locations around your subject. Or you can move the lights around the subject during the exposure.

Your brushes can be used to create images of pure light. They can be real-world objects. Or you can create abstract art pieces.

7. Scout Out Different Locations

Your location is an important consideration when you want to create light painting photography.

The location doesn’t have to be somewhere out in the wilderness. You can black out a studio, covering all the windows. You can then work in the comfort of a nice studio.

But if you want to shoot on location, there are some things you should think about.

When you’re scouting locations, think about how it will look at night. Will the features be visible? And how will they react to light?

Bodies of water are excellent locations. They’re scenic, and the water has a reflective quality you can exploit. You can double your shapes. And you can create visual echos.

Mountains can create spectacular backdrops after nightfall; their silhouette cuts across the starry sky.

Industrial landscapes provide lots of objects the light can interact with. Or, if you want to create pure light paintings, you can find a remote area with few features.

You also need to think about the levels of ambient light in each location. Cities have lots of artificial light. This isn’t ideal if you want dark pictures. And a full moon produces more light than you might think.

You should always scout your locations during the day. This way you can get a good look at the area. It will help you compose your shots. And it’s safer, especially if you are using remote or abandoned locations.

8. Keep Additional Movement to a Minimum

When painting with light, you move your light source during the long exposure. This creates electric brushstrokes that move across the image.

But for the rest of the shot, you want to keep movement to a minimum. When you’re using a slow shutter speed, camera shake is your main concern.

When you’re light painting, your shutter is open for 30 seconds or more. That means even small movements will result in motion blur.

A tripod will keep your camera still, which certainly helps. But you need to be aware of anything else in your image that might move.

Long exposures can be used for night cityscapes. And the car lights paint their picture on the image. So it can create a great visual effect. But you need to make sure you take this into consideration.

This is one of the reasons remote locations are often chosen by light painters. There are no people or vehicles moving around in the background.

If you’re the one painting in the image, you can reduce the impact by wearing black clothes. They also need to be non-reflective.

9. Try Kinetic Light Painting Photography

With kinetic light painting, the light source is still. And to create the brush strokes, you move your camera.

You can use dim lamps or candles. Any fixed light will do. You can even have a friend hold a light in position.

Kinetic light painting will give you more abstract results. You can create fabulous shapes and lines. But the background will always be blurred.

When you move your camera, your movements need to be deliberate and considered. You can’t wildly shake the camera around. That will result in one big blur.

Also, consider the distance between the light source and your camera. The closer they are, the more sensitive to movement they will be.

You can try kinetic light painting on location or in the studio. You can even try it at home. You don’t need to worry so much about surroundings or additional movement.

Conclusion

Light painting photography is an excellent way to experiment with light. You’ll learn about long exposures and night photography. And you’ll create some special images.

A black canvas is the perfect backdrop for light painting. You can enhance a night landscape. Or you can create a unique set of portraits using your light brushes. You can go literal. And you can go abstract.

You don’t need much equipment. And all the hard work is done in the camera. So you can still create stunning light pictures without a degree in Photoshop editing.

I hope this information has been clear and helpful. Now it’s time to get yourself a few glow sticks and head into the night. Let the night be your canvas, and the light be your brush!

Many of them now have a manual mode that allows you to take creative shots like long exposure photos.

In this article, we’ll show you how to shoot long exposure iPhone photos. We’ve also included handy tips and tricks when using smartphone or iPhone cameras.

Stability And Portability

Manfrotto PIXI Mini Tripod

Capture stunning long exposure iPhone shots with ease using a stable tripod. Our product offers universal compatibility, portability, and double functionality for all your photography needs.

What is a Long Exposure iPhone?

When capturing a picture, a small gate called a shutter opens and allows light to pass through.

At a slow shutter speed, the shutter is open for a longer time. This means that moving lights will create light trails in your image. In most cases, the longer the exposure, the longer the trails in your image. This is known as long exposure photography.

You can use this process to make beautiful and creative pictures.

There are plenty of scenarios where you can use long exposures. Apart from creating light trails, you can also use long exposures in night photography. This is because long exposures help gather more light in your image, which is useful in low-light scenes.

For instance, you can try a long exposure when shooting landscapes at night. There’s no way for you to light up the sky with artificial lighting, especially when you’re in secluded areas.

You can also use long exposure for capturing celestial bodies such as clouds and stars. Since they move across the sky, they will register as light trails and create ghostly elements in your camera. Long exposures are also great for capturing moving bodies of water such as river streams and waterfalls. When you open up your shutter, the motion of the water ends up looking smooth and creamy.

How To Shoot a Long Exposure with iPhone

1. Use a Tripod to Stabilize Your iPhone

Using long exposure requires keeping the shutter open for a long time. If you don’t keep it stable, it will produce blurry images. So how do you solve this problem?

The solution for getting the best iPhone long exposure photos is using a tripod. Since you don’t have to hold your phone, you can guarantee your image will look sharp. We have an article covering our favourite iPhone tripods here.

In low lighting conditions, a tripod will help you capture quality photos. The ISO and low-light capacity of smartphones are poor. This causes serious loss in image quality if you shoot high ISO pictures with your iPhone camera. A tripod can help you compensate for this downside of using a smartphone camera.

To set up your phone on a tripod, you’ll need a tripod mount. It’s a small gadget that clips onto your device. It also has a thread at the bottom which you can screw onto the tripod. You can read our guide to iPhone tripod mounts here.

You could use a mini tripod, which is easier to carry around for travel. Or you can work with a regular iPhone tripod if you need a taller and more stable system.

Remember that mounting your phone on a tripod alone is not going to prevent camera shake. You’ll need to either use a self-timer or a remote to ensure you don’t accidentally move your device while shooting.

2. Apply a Long Exposure Effect in Live Photos

Long exposure can be tricky, even when using a regular camera. If you’re not ready to learn all the technical aspects of the technique yet, you can try Live Photos first.

Live Photos is a feature on the iPhone that lets you take a series of photos and turns your shot into a short video clip. But you can also use it to apply all sorts of built-in effects on your native Camera app, including long exposure pictures.

To activate Live Photos, turn on your iPhone Camera app and select Live Photos at the top of the screen. It has a circle symbol with concentric rings in it. Once you select it, you can start taking photos by pressing the red button.

Go to your gallery and look for the photos you took using Live Photos. Select the photo you like and swipe up to reveal Effects. Scroll to the right and tap Long Exposure. Your iPhone then applies a “long exposure” effect to your image.

Since your iPhone applies the effect automatically on your photos, you don’t have control over the result of your image. But it’s the easiest way to experiment with long exposure on your iPhone.

What’s great about it is that you can easily revert to the original photo if needed.

3. Use Third-Party Apps to Create Stunning Long Exposures with iPhone

If you want to have more control over your iPhone long exposure images, your best approach is to use a third-party app.

There are plenty of great apps to choose from if you want to create long exposure on iPhone. Some of the best ones you can use include Camera+ 2, Slow Shutter Cam, and Procam 7.

We used Camera+ 2 to capture several of the images featured in this article!

To access Slow Shutter Mode in Camera+ 2, tap the Presets button at the top center of the screen and select Slow Shutter.

Once you’re in Slow Shutter Mode, go to the bottom of the screen where you can find the shutter speed and brightness scales.

Swipe left or right to change the shutter speed or the brightness. You can start with 2 seconds and keep moving up until you’re satisfied with the exposure.

Remember that the longer your shutter speed, the longer and brighter the light trails. In most cases, you’ll need at least 6 seconds to get decent trails.

4. Experiment With ND Filters to Take Daytime Long Exposures

In most cases, long exposure only works in low lighting. If you shoot iPhone long exposures during the day, you’ll often end up with overexposed images.

But what if you need to take photos when the sun’s out? You’ll need to use Neutral Density (ND) filters. Think of them as sunglasses for your camera to block the light.

ND filters come in different optical densities, which affects how much light they let through. For example, ND2 has an optical density of 0.3. This is equivalent to 1 f-stop reduction. ND4 has an optical density of 0.6 and 2 f-stop reductions and so on.

To keep it simple, remember that the higher the number, the less light that gets through.

There are special ND filters for smartphones that range from ND2 to ND400. But you can also use regular ND filters used for full-size cameras.

They won’t fit on your phone’s camera lens since they’re meant to fit larger lenses. But you can always hold them up to your lens while taking photos.

In most cases, anything between ND16 to ND64 is enough to create a long exposure image in daylight. On an overcast day, ND16 would be sufficient. But you might need ND64 or higher if you shoot in bright sunlight.

5. Get Creative With Light Painting

Long exposure is also a great technique to try light painting. Light painting uses the same concept of capturing the movement of lights at night by opening the shutter for a long time. The only difference is that you get to control the movement of the light.

To start light painting, place your phone on a tripod and set the shutter to at least 6 seconds. Now activate the self-timer and get in front of the camera.

Once the camera goes off, “write” something in the air with a flashlight or any small torch or light source. You’ll end up with light trails in the shape you drew in the air.

Remember that you’re creating a mirror image when light painting. In other words, everything will show up reversed in your camera when you’re drawing something.

To avoid this issue, doodle backwards so you end up with the correct picture. This applies even when you’re writing words in the air.

6. Shoot Without a Tripod for Cool Motion Effects

You don’t always have to place your iPhone on a tripod when shooting long exposures. If you want to experiment with different effects, you can take it off and see what you get.

Of course, you can always swirl the camera around while taking a long exposure shot. But you can also try other methods that can give you somewhat more predictable results.

For instance, you can swipe your camera in one direction while the shutter is open so you can create straight lines. Or you can also shoot as you’re walking towards your subject.

Doing so creates a double image. It looks like you were zooming in as you were taking the shot.

No matter what you choose to do, don’t be afraid to make mistakes. It’s a great way to learn how long exposure works and gain more control over the process.

Tips for Editing Long Exposure iPhone Shots

Your long exposure shots may already look cool straight from the camera. But to get the most out of your photos, you’ll need to edit them.

You can use regular editing apps such as VSCO or Adobe Lightroom Mobile. They have all the basic tools you’ll need to enhance your long exposure images.

When editing your pictures, feel free to crank up the contrast. You can also darken the blacks and the shadows to make the light streaks pop. But don’t overdo this, as digital noise may start to appear.

You should always make sure that you don’t lose any detail in the image when editing. Apart from that, you should also pay attention to the colors. If they start to look a bit off, dial back your adjustments.

Conclusion

Learning how to shoot long exposure with a smartphone is a great option for beginners. Once you become familiar with how the technique works, you’ll find it easier to do on a regular camera as well.

Even if you stick to smartphone photography, you’ll be amazed at the creative possibilities of long exposure!

If you want to learn more about shooting with long exposure, check out our Infinite Exposures eBook!

What is a Time-Lapse Interval Calculator?

A time-lapse calculator tells you how many frames you need for a time-lapse video. You input how long you want your final video to be, and it tells you how many frames you’ll need to achieve a smooth video.
As well as telling you the number of frames you need, it will tell you the time you need between each shot. For a smooth time-lapse, you need the intervals correctly separated with the right amount of time in between.
A video, unless slow-motion, requires at least 24 frames per second. If you’re making a 10-second video, you’ll need 240 frames. And that’s without any intervals in between shots.
When you add intervals, the mathematical formula becomes more complicated. You can work it out in your head. But that’ll take some brainpower, and you might get the calculation wrong.
A time-lapse calculator will save you time and trouble. And it’s far more risk-free than doing the math in your head. It gives you the exact information you need so you can create fantastic time-lapse videos.

Why You Need a Time-lapse Calculator

Time-lapse photography isn’t always easy. And creating time-lapse footage can be a drain on your battery life and memory usage. But the hardest part is calculating the shooting interval length between shots.
If you want a time-lapse video that runs at 30 fps with a duration of 30 seconds, setting a shooting interval of eight seconds will give you an event duration of 2 hours.
We want a video that lasts 30 seconds. And each of those seconds needs 30 frames.
30 x 30 = 900 images. 900 images x 8 seconds = 7200 seconds or 2 hours.
You might be asking, why isn’t it the time it takes one image PLUS the 8 seconds? The maths behind photographing 900 images at 1/250th of a second means 900 images would take 3.6 seconds in total.
But, it isn’t 7203.6 seconds. This is because the shooting interval starts at the beginning of the capture, not at the end. The interval is actually 8 seconds minus 1/250th of a second.
If you’re finding this complicated and confusing, that’s because it is.
We can also look at how long an interval takes to create. Let’s say you’re capturing an event that lasts four hours, and you want to create a 45-second video. You’ll need to work out how big your shot intervals must be.
If you’re working with a 24 fps frame rate, you can calculate that your intervals need to be 13.3 seconds. The mathematical breakdown is 4 hours = 14,400 seconds. We divide 14,400 seconds by 24 as that is our frame rate per second. 14,400 divided by 24 is 600 seconds.
Then, we divide 600 seconds by 45 seconds, which gives us the final answer of 13.3 seconds.
That’s a lot to work out for each time-lapse video you want to create. Using a calculator removes the trouble and speeds up the process. It allows you to focus on photography, not math.
Another benefit is that a time-lapse calculator can also give you memory usage information. If you know the file size for each shot, the calculator can tell you how much memory the shots will take up.
It’s useful information, so you know how much memory you need before you start shooting. You’ll avoid the nightmare scenario of running out of memory halfway through a shoot. With a time-lapse video, that means starting all over again.

How to Use a Time-Lapse Calculator

Time-lapse calculators are straightforward tools to use. You insert the necessary variables, and the calculator gives you the exact information you need for your time-lapse video.
If you’re working out the shooting intervals, you input the desired clip length and the event duration time. Then you add the frame rate you want to use. And for memory information, you need to insert the file size in MB for each shot.
The calculator will then tell you the size of the intervals, the number of photos, and the total memory usage. You can see the results in the image below, where we used the time-lapse calculator from PhotoPills.com.
You can also work out the event duration or the video length, depending on the information you have.

Time-Lapse Calculator Recommendations

PhotoPills is an excellent app for all photographers to have on their phones. They have a time-lapse calculator that’ll work out intervals, the event duration, and clip length.
They also have depth of field calculators. And a 500 rule calculator for astrophotography. Along with their calculators, PhotoPills can help you with location shoots by giving you sun and moon information.
PhotoPills is available for both Android and iOS smartphones. Or you can use their calculators for free on their website.
There are also specialized time-lapse photography apps that work really well. There’s Framelapse for Android and Lapse It for iPhone users.

Conclusion

For time-lapse photographers, time-lapse interval calculators are a godsend. You no longer need to spend hours crunching the numbers to get a smooth and spectacular time-lapse video.
Calculators take the pain out of time-lapse video creation. And they allow you to focus on getting the right shots for a perfect video.
There are some great free time-lapse calculators you can use. And they’re all simple and straightforward. They will definitely help you with your next time-lapse project.
Check out our Total Time-Lapse video course to create stunning time-lapse videos every time! 
The images in this article are partly provided by depositphotos.com

So how do photographers snap those amazing fireworks photographs you see on social media? With the right gear, the proper settings, a few shooting tricks, and some patience. Let’s begin!

This guide on how to photograph fireworks will help you take your images from ordinary to awesome.

Versatile Focal Length

Sigma 24-105mm f/4.0 Art DG OS HSM

Capture stunning photos of fireworks with ease by using a high-quality lens. Get stable and fine image quality from wide to mid-telephoto range, and enjoy the combination of fixed aperture and a good zoom ratio. Tips included.

Photograph Fireworks: Scout the Location in Advance to Find the Best Spot

The first thing is to plan and know when and where the fireworks are taking place—the Fourth of July and New Years of the most popular events.

Unfortunately, air pollution or cloudy weather can stand in the way of contrasty images. Get to know the forecast with the Dark Sky app and use Google Maps to locate and scout your venue in advance.

Identify where the fireworks will be launching from. It is useful to understand the distance and direction of where the fireworks will be coming from.

Plan to arrive like an hour before the fireworks start. Spend that extra time while there’s a little bit of daylight for better visibility if possible.

Look for neat features that will add interest to the scene. These could include a reflection on water or fireworks over a cityscape. Foreground elements such as trees or people will become silhouetted and can add scale to your photographs.

These are all things that will strengthen the composition. It would help if you also looked out for potential pitfalls. These would be power lines in the way or trees too tall, that obstruct the view.

You can also use this time to set your camera settings and adjust your tripod.

What Photography Gear To Use

What’s Important When Choosing a Camera

You are probably not going to buy a new camera just for photographing fireworks displays. But some features are beneficial to have for fireworks photographs.

The best is if you have a DSLR camera or a mirrorless one with manual mode because it is advantageous to have full control over your settings.

As fireworks happen in the evening or at night, you will need a camera with great low-light performance. Fireworks themselves are bright, but a huge part of your image will be dark. It’s even better if your model features an ISO invariant sensor.

As you will need to edit your pictures, image quality and resolution are crucial factors. Full frame cameras usually perform better on this task than cameras with crop sensors.

A remote shooting mode is also appreciated.

It’s useful to have a mirror lockup option if you are using a DSLR. Its job is to reduce the vibration inside the camera body by flipping the mirror up in advance. So the vibration happens before the shutter opens without affecting your shots.

What Kind of Lens to Use

Another important part of the equipment of a photographer is, of course, the lens.

Use a zoom lens if you want to have a versatile tool. It will allow you to shoot from a distance and include, for example, a cityscape in the foreground. But also, you can take closer photos of just the firework itself by zooming in. Travel zooms such as the 24-105mm are a good option.

You can use prime lenses too, of course. You will have to choose in advance what kind of composition you are aiming for. A 35mm wide-angle lens is ideal if you want more of the background and foreground.

A telephoto lens is more for capturing the exploding fireworks, without their surroundings. We advise you to stay in the 70-200mm range.

Why You Should Use a Tripod

Stabilizing the camera is an absolute must here, especially if you want to capture an environment under the fireworks shots.

Fireworks photography is an extension of the long exposure technique. Without a tripod, you’re going to end up with blur. For best results, it’s necessary to minimise camera shake.

You don’t need the most expensive tripod out there. Look for something sturdy enough to hold your camera sturdily.

But if you don’t have one, how do you take pictures of fireworks without a tripod? In that case, find a steady location where you can place your camera so it can sit still for long exposures. This can be, for example, a table, wall or roof of your car.

Once you’ve found your desired composition, set up the tripod for that view.

What Kind of Accessories You Might Need

There is a high chance that you are going to stay outside for a long time. Depending on your location, the weather can be cold if you choose to shoot fireworks on New Year’s Eve. So it’s wise to take extra batteries with you, as cold temperatures reduce battery life.

A fast SD card is also useful as you might want to shoot frames continuously. It takes time to process the images as you should shoot in RAW so a fast card will keep the camera shooting.

If you have a remote shutter release, make sure to use it for shooting. Many newer cameras have Wi-Fi, which also allows you to use your smartphone as a release. This way you can minimise camera shake, which is even more important when you are using a slow shutter speed.

If you don’t have a remote release or Wi-Fi, using the self-timer is also a good idea. But your chances of capturing a great moment are decreasing this way dramatically.

Not the first thing you would use as an accessory for digital photography, but you could take a folding chair with you. You will thank yourself when you are standing in your chosen spot, waiting for the firework to start.

A flashlight is also going to be a great companion. Unless you can adjust your camera settings in complete darkness, bring one along.

How to Set Your Camera

Which Camera Mode to Choose

It would be best if you chose Manual Mode to have full control over your settings.

While photographing in manual mode is best, some point-and-shoot cameras even have a fireworks mode. If you don’t have manual modes, try shooting in the fireworks scene mode. You’ll still need a tripod, but you won’t need to set the exposure and focus manually.

In case you’re using a DSLR or mirrorless in manual mode, experiment with the exposure triangle before the photoshoot. This way you’ll be ready for the long exposure firework photography.

Why Shoot in RAW

You should shoot fireworks in RAW, as a huge part of your frame will be dark.

You might want to bring out details from the darker areas, like buildings in the foreground. This can be done better with a RAW image.

Altering the white balance also can be done without quality loss if you have a RAW file.

How to Set Your Aperture

The exact exposure values are going to vary. This is based on whether there are any other lights in the scene and how many fireworks are going off at once.

Start with an aperture of f/11. As you shoot, check your exposure and adjust as needed. Choose a larger f-number (a smaller opening) if the shots are too bright.

If the fireworks show starts at dusk, you may lose some light. You’ll need to brighten up your aperture to account for the low-light. Choose a smaller f-number (a wider aperture) if the shots are too dark.

Usually, you are going to get the best results with an aperture between f/5.6 and f/11.

The smaller the aperture, the most likely diffraction is going to occur. Usually, it happens above f/11.

This is because light has to go through a small hole, and light rays will interfere. Due to this, your images are becoming less sharp as this phenomenon blurs small details in your images.

To photograph fireworks, you usually need a deeper depth of field. The background is not going to be visibly blurry, as it’s dark. To keep the fireworks display in focus, make sure not to set a too wide aperture.

What Shutter Speed to Use

Some fireworks are quick bursts. Others maintain an impressive streak across the sky for several seconds.

You would have to set your shutter to at least 1/20. Try shooting when many fireworks are bursting in quick succession. This will increase the chances of getting a good shot.

The trick to getting the firework’s entire movement across the sky is to set your camera to Bulb Mode.

In Bulb Mode, you control the shutter speeds by holding down the shutter release. The camera continues recording until you let go of that button. The ‘Bulb’ setting makes it possible to shoot fireworks without knowing how long that next burst will last.

To use ‘Bulb’ Mode, turn your camera to manual mode. Turn the value all the way down until you see B or Bulb near the shutter speed display.

The unique exposure time is great for long exposures, but it works just as well with one quick fireworks burst.

How to Set Your ISO

As fireworks are bright and you will use a long shutter speed, you will need a low ISO.

This is the reason why – although you are photographing at night – you won’t need a strong noise reduction during post-processing.

Set your ISO to the lowest value available on your camera, like to 100 or 200.

If you are operating with a faster shutter, you can go higher. But your maximum ISO shouldn’t be higher than 3200 with a full frame camera, or 800 with a crop sensor.

Why Choose Manual Focus

Your camera can’t focus on the dark. And they can’t focus on a firework that hasn’t exploded yet. This is why you definitely should use manual focus.

Adjust the focus dial on your lens to focus a tiny bit closer than infinity.

Since fireworks are far away and you are going to have a high depth of field, for most situations this technique works well.

But it would help if you previewed your first shot and zoom in to check focus. If the fireworks are a bit soft, you may need to pull the focus further back.

How to Vary Your Composition

You won’t be able to plan your compositions completely as you can’t predict the exact spots where fireworks will appear in the sky.

But there are some photography tips on composition that can help you get closer to the photos you imagined.

You can vary the angle you are photographing fireworks from.

If you stand close to where the fireworks are shot from, you can photograph them from below. This is going to result in frames filled by the fireworks.

If you are shooting from a distance, you can include more fireworks in your frame. This way, you can vary your composition.

This is where juxtaposition can come in. To get a good image, you can include other elements in your foreground. This can make a nice contrast between different textures and subjects.

If you are standing in a crowd, you can use the people standing near you to create amazing silhouettes. At first, you might think about them as distractions, but don’t be afraid to use them as parts of your composition.

Also, try using the rule of thirds. In short, this means that your subject shouldn’t be in the middle of your image.

It would help if you observed first, where they are shooting the fireworks from. When you find where they are coming from, try composing that spot to the third of your image. Of course, a lot depends on how high they are going. But you can adjust your vantage point to place the fireworks following this rule.

By using a tripod, people tend to leave their gear untouched after they set their first composition. Don’t do that. As they are constantly moving, you can’t photograph fireworks without changing a few things.

Always revisit your settings and compositions and move the camera or the whole equipment if your photos can benefit from it. Usually, a fireworks show is long enough to allow you to get numerous different shots.

Switch between a wide-angle view and a close-up of the sky by zooming or swapping lenses.

How to Post-Process Your Fireworks Photography

Shooting in RAW gives you complete control over the way the final photograph looks.

We recommend using Photoshop or Lightroom, but you can use other photo editing software, of course.

When editing fireworks, it is important to preserve the details of the scene. To bring out the texture of the lights, you should adjust clarity and contrast.

To emphasize the luminance of the light, you can also tweak highlights and shadows.

Pulling the highlights down can be beneficial to minimise the smoke created by the fireworks.

Bring out the colors by tweaking the saturation and vibrance. Watch any surrounding landscape for odd hues—saturation is very easy to overdo.

You can also try new compositions during post-processing. Create a panoramic image and merge them into one image to include fireworks shot at different times. This is going to make your images look more crowded and colorful.

Conclusion

Photographing a fireworks display is a difficult but fun challenge to try.

No matter if it’s the Fourth of July or some other occasion, make sure to keep in mind our fireworks photography tips! You’ll be able to capture fireworks shots that are as dazzling as the actual show.

Use the biggest benefits of digital photography, and check the sharpness, the exposure and the composition regularly. Don’t check every shot. You’ll take your eyes off the sky and miss another opportunity. But check back every so often.

Fireworks shows tend to last long enough to give photographers plenty of chances to capture great shots with some variety. This time will also help you to set the aperture and exposure times correctly.

Write a checklist, and don’t forget to take your cable release with you!

Learning how to photograph lightning is not easy. Getting that great shot at exactly the right time takes practice. But there are many strategies to help improve your lightning photography.

Lightning Synchronization

Pluto Wireless Remote Flash Trigger

Expertise is key when photographing lightning. With 24 modes, including lightning detection and sound triggers, this remote flash trigger will take your skills to the next level.

Photograph Lightning: Checking the Weather to Predict When Lightning Will Strike

Lightning storms tend to happen after a period of hot weather.

In Europe, for example, lightning storms are a lot more common towards the end of summer and the beginning of autumn.

There are many apps and websites to help us figure out when to get out there and shoot lightning. Windy.com is my favourite. It has detailed information on lightning strikes down to the minute.

You can also check out your national weather service website.

Choose a Suitable Location to Capture Lighting

When thinking of the location to shoot lightning from, consider the following:

Find a good vantage point – You need a clear line of sight off into the distance for lightning shots. An ideal location may be the balcony of an apartment building a few miles away from the storm.

Face the storm – It is important to check the to know the direction of the storm. Ideally, you’ll be photographing the lightning bolt as the storm approaches. You must be quick and cautious, so you are ready to get to shelter once the storm arrives.

Stay safe – Choosing a location that ensures lightning safety is important. Focus on staying high but not on the roof or at the top of a hill. It is also important to stay away from trees, metal poles, or street cables. The balcony of a high building offers you both protection from the rain and any stray lightning bolts.

Add interesting foreground – For a stronger lightning photo, add a point of interest to compliment the lightning strike. Look for a location that gives you both a high vantage point, and a good foreground subject. Try to find a composition that looks good even without lighting. This will give you a more interesting lightning photo.

Use a Tripod to Keep Your Camera Steady During Storm Photography

You’re very likely to be standing in the strong wind while photographing lightning. You must focus on keeping your camera steady.

In a pinch, you might be able to use a wall to steady the camera. Or you can balance your camera on top of your camera bag.

A sturdy tripod is the best solution since you’ll be shooting exposures of up to 30 seconds. I recommend using an external shutter release or cable release. With these, you won’t need to touch the camera while you’re photographing lightning.

Use an Intervalometer to Ensure High-Quality Lightning Images

When photographing lightning, we want our camera to remain as still as possible. Sometimes, even pressing the shutter button might interfere in our camera steadiness and create a blurry photo.

Using an intervalometer for photographing lightning can increase the quality of your photo and make the photoshoot easier.

Here are a few benefits of using an intervalometer when photographing lightning:

Sharper images – Using an intervalometer can increase the chances of getting a good lightning photo, as it allows you to shoot without touching the camera. Once you focus, you don’t have to press the shutter button again, which might cause camera shake and reduce the quality of the image.

You can take a series of photos over a period of time – An intervalometer can also help to shoot a series of photos for several minutes. This is a huge advantage as we don’t know exactly when the lightning bolt will show up. If you don’t have a lightning trigger, using an intervalometer will increase your chances of catching the lightning.

Protect Your Gear to Avoid Water Damage

When shooting lightning, you are very likely to shoot under the rain. Even a small amount of water may damage your equipment. If the water gets onto the lens, it may distort your photo and ruin the whole shoot.

If possible, use a lens filter to keep your lens protected. For the camera, if you don’t have a rain sleeve you can use a one-time-use camera rain sleeve. These are designed to keep your gear dry. If you don’t have any time to prepare for the bad weather you can always go for a plastic bag or even a shower cap.

Make sure to bring a micro-fiber cloth with you so you can wipe the camera if needed. Be cautious and keep the rest of your gear in a waterproof case.

How to Capture That Perfect Moment When Lightning Strikes

Broadly speaking, there are two approaches you can take when photographing lightning. One uses long exposure, the other a specialised lightning trigger.

The first one takes more patience. You have to hope for a bolt of lightning to strike as you keep your shutter open. The second consists of a gadget that tells your camera to take a photo when it detects lightning.

In both cases, make sure to have your camera on a tripod, enough space on your memory card, and an extra battery.

Setting Up Your Camera

The initial setup for both approaches is the same.

First, you need to establish a storm is coming. Then, choose your location, set the camera up on a tripod, and think about your composition.

Ensure you have an appropriate focal length to capture the lightning bolt. With storms that are far into the distance, a longer focal length is better. As the storm approaches, a wide-angle lens will better capture the entire scene.

Try to include a large part of the sky in your frame. You won’t capture lightning otherwise. Make sure the lightning strikes are happening inside your frame. Otherwise, you will need to recompose your photo.

Focus your photo using the camera’s manual focus. The best way to focus lightning is to use the camera’s live view setting and choose a point in the mid-ground. Zoom in to this portion, and focus the camera to ensure sharpness. Once focused, keep the camera’s manual focus on, to ensure you keep focus.

Set your camera’s white balance to “auto”. If you want to give your photo a “blue cast” I suggest changing to a “cooler” white balance. This usually goes well with the lightning scene.

Take a photo or some test shots of the scene in front of you at f/8. In some cases, the lightning strike will leave you with an underexposed photo. But the photo you take now will allow you to blend the lightning photo and a regular photo for correct exposure.

The Long Exposure Approach

The idea behind this approach is to make your camera settings expose for an extended period.  The aim is to capture a lightning strike during long exposures.

Change your camera settings to underexpose the scene at -1EV. You may need lower if the lightning strikes are nearby. You’ll want to set the shutter speed to be at least 5 seconds.

If you are close to the storm, you won’t need an exposure of more than 15 seconds. If the storm is still far, you can start with 30 seconds or try the bulb method.

Set your aperture and ISO accordingly. I would begin with an aperture between f/5.6 and f/8, and ISO 100. Of course, this will depend on the shutter speed you decide to set.

Try shooting some photos as soon as you see the first lightning. Then, change the ISO depending on the exposure. If you’re photographing during the day you may need to use a strong neutral density filter. This filter locks some of the light coming into the camera and helps to make longer exposures.

Use an external shutter release or cable release. Keep the shutter locked so the camera continues to take photos. With this, you’ll be able to take a series of photos for several minutes. Also, your chances of catching the lightning will increase.

Continue taking photos until you can capture the bolts of lightning. Taking photos this way, especially as you’ll want to use RAW, will use up space on your memory card quickly. Ensure you have a large memory card and replacements.

To learn more about long exposure, check out our Infinite Exposures course!

The Trigger Approach

The second method for lightning in photography is to use a specialised trigger. This works by detecting a big change in the light levels that will trigger an exposure.

With this method, you won’t have to leave the shutter open for ages. Once you set up the lightning trigger it will know the exact time to shoot the photo.

This instant trigger is a definite improvement on the long exposure technique. Here’s why:

One frame – You no longer have to take many photos in the hope of getting the one frame that includes a lightning strike. This saves space on your memory card. And it prevents your camera from deteriorating from taking many photos.

Better definition – With a trigger, you get a better chance of capturing the detailed elements of the bolt of lightning. Also, you’ll be able to use a larger aperture since you no longer need a long exposure.

Easy to use – Lightning triggers work well for either beginners or professionals. They are easy to use and some of them can be linked to a smartphone and be controlled wirelessly.

There are plenty of trigger systems on the market to choose from. Some of the best ones are the Pluto, and the Nero triggers. You can use these triggers for other forms of photography, not just lightning.

Let’s look at how to photograph lightning using a trigger.

1. Set up your camera.
2. Your camera’s shutter speed should be set to expose at around 1/15th second. Use the aperture to get the correct exposure level for the scene you’re photographing. During the day you can have your camera on shutter priority mode. At night, it’s best to have the camera in full manual mode.
3. Attach the lightning trigger to your camera. Adjust the sensitivity of the sensor according to your current conditions. It’s often the case you’ll need to use some trial and error before you find the sensitivity sweet spot.
4. Now, wait, and allow the camera to take exposures as the lightning storm passes by.

Conclusion

Now you know everything about taking photos of lightning. It’s time to put that knowledge into practice.

Next time you hear a storm is coming, grab your camera and tripod and find the perfect spot. You’ll need practice and patience to get the best result, but it’s very rewarding when you get it right.

Remember to stay safe. Shooting lightning is fun, and the results may be great, but your safety is the most important.

As always, please share your thoughts and any photos you have in the comments section!

Video Course

Infinite Exposures

Unlock the secrets of captivating photography with this Video Course:

• Learn to photograph waterfalls, waves, sunsets, and stars effortlessly.
• Discover how to balance movement and stillness in your shots.
• Master exposure settings easily, with or without a filter.

What Is Motion Blur?

Motion blur is a visual effect in photography in which moving objects appear blurred due to their rapid motion during exposure. It adds a sense of speed and dynamism to images and videos, enhancing their visual appeal and storytelling.

Unlike background blur, the lens is not responsible for causing motion blur in photography. Motion blurring happens when the camera shutter stays open for a long time. As the camera completes the exposure, every movement the sensor records manifests as streaks or light trails.

Typically, photographers try to avoid blurred motion at all costs. But sometimes, they can use it to convey action, much like how cartoonists draw lines to indicate their characters are moving.

Better yet, you can use motion blur in photography to create surreal scenes. They use their cameras, much like artists would use their brushes to paint abstract elements.

Camera Gear for Motion Blur Photography

To blur motion, you need a manual-mode camera to keep the aperture open for a long time. It’s also best to use a tripod to capture creative motion blur in photography. Using it to keep your camera steady helps you control the blur in your image.

You don’t need a tripod every time. Tripods are a must in most situations but helpful in others. We’ll cover when and when not to use them.

In some blurred shots, the shutter speed cannot drop low enough to create the right blur level without overexposing the image. In these cases, you need neutral density filters to cut the light coming into the lens. Doing so allows for longer exposures, even in daylight.

We have articles on the best options for buying a tripod or ND (neutral density) filter.

Our Picks for Best Tripod and ND Filter for Motion Blur Photography

Manfrotto Befree Advanced Tripod

Manfrotto Befree Advanced Tripod

K&F Concept Variable ND2-ND400 ND Lens Filter (67mm)

K&F Concept Variable ND2-ND400 ND Lens Filter (67mm)

6 Best Ways to Capture Motion Blur

Here are six easy ways to take photos of motion blur for creative and unique pictures.

1. Set the Shutter Speed for an Intentional Blur

To create an artistic motion blur, you need to set the shutter speed low enough to blur the action in the image. Remember, the shutter is the part of the lens that opens and closes to expose the image.

Anything that moves when the shutter is open will blur. A fast shutter speed freezes action, while a slower shutter speed or longer exposure time will blur the movement.

You can set the shutter speed for motion blur shots using shutter priority or manual mode. The first is easier to learn, and the latter offers more control.

The best shutter speed to create motion blur depends on how fast the action moves and how much blur you want. A 1/60 s (second) shutter speed is often enough to create blur in fast subjects, like an athlete or a child playing.

But you can also use longer exposures to create dreamy images. For instance, you can try an exposure for several seconds to display motion blur in a waterfall.

For the example below, the photographer wanted maximum blur in the water. So, they used a tripod and a shutter speed of 1/4 s. Notice how creamy the water looks!

For a long exposure landscape, I often begin with 20 seconds (if I can still get proper exposure). I then review the shot and adjust the time from there.

Creating intentional blur through shutter speed often involves experimenting. If I’m shooting a subject with rapid movement, I usually start with 1/60 s. I will then view the shot and adjust it up or down from there.

In the image below of a woman dancing, the photographer wanted to keep her face sharp while blurring the movement in her skirt. For this handheld shot, they used a shutter speed of 1/30 s.

While setting the shutter speed is essential to creating intentional, artistic blur, there’s more to consider. Do you want to blur the moving subject or blur the background?

2. Use Panning to Capture Motion Blur

Intentional camera movement (ICM) involves moving your camera in a particular direction to create a blur. Panning a shot is the best-known example of this in photography.

To execute a panning shot, you follow the direction of a moving subject with your camera. In most situations, you only have to move horizontally (left to right or vice versa).

But moving your camera isn’t enough to accomplish panning. You have to set your shutter speed to 1/30 s or slower. If you do it correctly, your subject will be in sharp focus, while the background will have an intense motion blur.

Long telephoto lenses are best for this kind of photography. They let you fill the frame with the subject while accentuating the motion blur. You can also use ICM to create fantastic abstract photos, such as the one below.

The photographer moved the camera before pressing the shutter for the photo below. You can create this kind of abstract image using the motion blur filter in Photoshop. But the effect may appear less natural.

3. Capture Cloud Movement for Unique Blur

Capturing clouds is another way to add movement to architectural and landscape scenes. This technique often requires using ND filters to lower your shutter speed. That way, your camera can capture the clouds as blurry wisps as they move across the scene.

The first image below is the new congress center in Mons, Belgium. It was taken with my Olympus OM-D EM-10 using a 14-42mm kit lens with stacked B+W ND 106 and ND 110 filters.

The second image is an infrared long exposure of about 20 seconds in a city garden. I used a Panasonic Lumix DMC-GF2 Micro Four Thrids camera with a 12-42 kit lens and HOYA R-72 infrared filter.

4. Use Motion Blur for Nocturnal Landscapes

Stars, planets, and galaxies move rapidly across the sky. At night, you can take excellent landscape photos. You can also use long exposures to create star trails and Milky Way timelapses.

To create star trails, it’s often best to use a shutter speed of 15 seconds or more. This process also requires a tripod since you want only certain elements to be blurry, not the entire photo. I recommend reading our how-to article on night landscape photography.

The first photo below is of the Milky Way trail above Cap-Blanc-Nez, France. It was taken with a Sony RX100 Mark II for about three minutes.

The second image shows tar trails on marshland near Turnhout, Belgium. It was taken with an Olympus OM-D EM-10 and a Samyang 7.5 f/3.5 fisheye lens. The total shooting time was about 30 minutes. The final image captures a night sky with a waterfall.

5. Experiment With Water Motion Blur

Try experimenting with your shutter speed while capturing rivers, seas, and oceans. For example, in the first photo below, you can use short shutter speeds to freeze the breaking of the waves on the shore.

You can also try a longer exposure to make them appear foamy and smooth, like in the second photo. These photos were taken at Avlaki Beach (Kerkyra, Greece). I used my Panasonic Lumix DMC-GF2 with the 14-42mm kit lens.

You can even use longer exposures to completely smooth the waves for a flat, static sea. If you love this effect, check out our Infinite Exposures course to create awesome long-exposure shots!

I used this technique at this dock in Kalamaki Beach at dawn. The long exposure smoothed away the waves, resulting in a motionless, zen-like, minimalist image. I used a Canon 50D with an EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM lens.

Fast-moving streams of water, like waterfalls and rivers, can also assume a silky appearance. The second image below is the Ferrera Waterfall in Italy by Alessandro Torri. He used a Canon EOS 50D with a Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 AT-X 116 Pro DX lens.

6. Capture Motion Blur With Lights

When moving elements such as cars move faster than the exposure time, they vanish in the final image and leave a trail of lights. The first image below is the Boulevard de Waterloo at night in Brussels, Belgium. I took it with a Panasonic Lumix DMC-GF2.

You can create an urban carousel by capturing the passing traffic framing a roundabout. I took the second photo in Place Royale in Brussels, Belgium. Again, I used the DMC-GF2. But this time, I used the Samyang 7.5 f/3.5 fisheye lens.

You can also uniquely present famous landmarks by capturing light trails in front of them. I shot light trails against the Bullring shopping center in Birmingham, UK (third image). I again used my Panasonic and a 14-42mm kit lens.

Conclusion: Motion Blur

Blur conveys a sense of motion in still images. Use it to draw the viewer’s eye, add interest, or even jazz up a dull background. If our outlined techniques don’t work, add motion blur with editing software like Adobe Photoshop!

Video Course

Infinite Exposures

Unlock the secrets of captivating photography with this Video Course:

• Learn to photograph waterfalls, waves, sunsets, and stars effortlessly.
• Discover how to balance movement and stillness in your shots.
• Master exposure settings easily, with or without a filter.

But mastering exposure stacking requires everything from choosing the best gear to getting the exposure right. Continue reading for everything you need to know about using exposure stacking for daytime long exposures.

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• Learn to use every tool for quick, professional edits.
• Discover seamless subject selection with a single click.
• Unlock hidden details in photos with our unique method.

The Purpose of Exposure Stacking Photos

The term stacking simply means combining several photos to create a single image. There are several forms of stacking.

The first one is called focus stacking. It combines several pictures with different focus points to create one image that’s sharp from the foreground to the background.

The second type of stacking is for creating a panorama. Instead of laying one image on top of another, it stitches photos together to create a panoramic picture.

Finally, the third form of stacking is for long-exposure photography. This is what we’ll be talking about in this article. It combines your image files to enhance anything from moving clouds to waves in the sea.

Each of the stacking methods we mentioned in this article involves a two-step process. The first part is taking a series of pictures with a tripod.

The second part is combining them in post-production. The ideal editing software for this purpose is Photoshop, which we will use in this tutorial.

How to Create Perfect Daytime Long-Exposures

When doing long-exposure photography, a lot of problems can easily ruin your shot. The most important thing you need for a long exposure is camera stability, which means you’ll need a tripod.

A lot of things can quickly go wrong with an exposure time of around 4 minutes. You could encounter all sorts of issues, from false light to camera shake. And sometimes, you get issues with vignetting or image noise.

But you can overcome most of the issues by dividing the shot into several shorter exposures. You can stack your files together in Adobe Photoshop to achieve that one perfect shot.

Photo stacking is not a technique for every situation. But sometimes, stacking long exposures is the only way to get a good shot. You must know when you need it and when you don’t.

When to Use Photo Stacking

False Light

At night, when the light is low, you can do 2- or 4-minute exposures without using neutral density filters.

But during the day, you’ll often have too much light for long-exposure photography. Even using slow shutter speeds with a 10-stop ND filter might still result in an overexposed shot if it’s too bright.

Using a smaller aperture obviously helps. But using too narrow of an aperture can cause diffraction issues. But this mostly happens when you use an aperture smaller than f/16.

Photo stacking your daytime long-exposure photos ensures you get correctly exposed shots. You’ll find this especially useful if you don’t own a 10-stop neutral density filter.

Camera Shake

Besides false light, shaking is the most common reason for failed shots in long-exposure photography.

Since your camera shutter stays open for a few minutes, any movement it records will register as light streaks or motion blur. That’s the same reason why clouds in the sky or the waves in the ocean look wispy.

But small vibrations can also cause motion blur in your camera. Even a breeze or a gentle nudge could easily ruin your shots.

It’s best to take the camera strap off your camera while shooting long exposures. It acts as a sail in the wind and causes the tripod to shake.

You should also make sure the ground is sturdy enough to support your tripod. Use a remote trigger or self-timer for hands-free operation. Remember that even touching the shutter button could easily introduce motion blur.

User Error

Of course, we also need to factor in all the unforeseen hiccups that can ruin a great long-exposure shot.

Regardless of whether it’s daytime or night, another common mistake is simply forgetting your remote. Without it, you can only safely go up to 30 seconds, which is the longest exposure most cameras allow.

Bulb mode without a remote requires repeatedly pressing the shutter, which is a no-go if you want to avoid camera shake.

You may need to practice taking long-exposure images before you get it completely right. But becoming familiar with the process allows you to avoid mistakes and troubleshoot any issues that may arise.

How to Use Photo Stacking for Long-Exposure Photos

In this section, we’ll show you how to multiple images and blend the exposures together in Photoshop.

Setting Up Your Camera

At the location, set up your gear as usual. Make sure your camera settings combine with your ND filter to produce the correct exposure. Your histogram should peak just over the middle to the right when using an exposure time of 30 seconds.

To get the effect of a four-minute shot, aim for eight good shots, each at 30 seconds (8 x 30 seconds = four minutes).

Feel free to take a few test photos to ensure you get the best exposure. Even though you’re stacking pictures, you still want exposures that would work by themselves.

Get some extra exposures just in case some of them are blurry due to camera shake from a sudden wind gust. You can always leave out a particular shot from your sequence in the photo-stacking process.

As you can see, the first part of this process is quite simple. If you’ve done long-exposure photography before, this is the same process.

The part that you’ll need to learn is how to combine all those pictures in Photoshop. Now, let’s go through the process below.

Post-Processing in Photoshop/Lightroom

Processing your set of daytime long-exposure shots is easy.

If you open your photos from Lightroom, open up your set of shorter long-exposures as layers in Photoshop. You do this in Lightroom’s grid mode by selecting all the images you want to combine into one exposure.

Right-click and choose Edit In > Edit in Adobe Photoshop.

Don’t select “Open as Layers” in Photoshop since it’s for focus stacking macro photos. This process is different.

When the images finish loading into Photoshop, go to File > Scripts > Load Files into Stack.

In the dialog box, select “Add Open Files” to make the set of images appear under files to use for stacking.

Remember to check “Attempt to Automatically Align Source Images” and “Create Smart Object after Loading Layers.”

Click OK to begin the blending process. It usually takes some time for Photoshop to create a single smart object from all of the exposures.

Next, go to the Layer menu and select Smart Objects > Stack Mode > Mean. Doing so makes Photoshop automatically blend the images in the stack into a smooth, long exposure. The goal is to make it look like you took everything as a single long-exposure image.

At this point, you don’t need the layer to be a smart object anymore. Keeping it this way would prevent you from using the Brush tool, for example. You can convert it by right-clicking on the layer and choosing “Rasterize Layer.”

Next, process the image as you would any other image. Long exposures taken during the day often have many large white spots with clouds or silky soft water. Applying sharpening to these areas can cause an unwanted grainy look.

The Result

To take this particular shot, I had to put my tripod halfway into the water to get the composition I wanted. But it required a four-minute exposure, and the small waves likely transferred a little shaking from the tripod to the camera. So, a normal long-exposure image would have been blurry.

However, by dividing the shot into eight exposures, I got several exposures that were usable for photo stacking.

Conclusion—Exposure Stacking for Daytime Long Exposures

Daytime long-exposure photography can give you some beautiful and creative results. But it requires patience, practice, and knowing when to use it.

Using photo stacking can save you a lot of time and help you get awesome shots that might not be possible otherwise.

Video Course

Effortless Editing with Lightroom

Master the art of photo editing with this comprehensive video course:

• Learn to use every tool for quick, professional edits.
• Discover seamless subject selection with a single click.
• Unlock hidden details in photos with our unique method.

We’ll show you the step-by-step process for applying this technique in your photography.

Effective People Removal

Neewer 52mm Fixed ND Filter Kit

“Remove people from photos with ease using a neutral density filter kit. This solution reduces light without affecting color, giving you more control over exposure settings.”

How to Use an ND Filter to Remove People From Photos

Before we begin our tutorial, let’s talk about is what a neutral density filter is and what it does.

A neutral density filter, also known as an ND filter, acts like sunglasses for your lens. In other words, it limits the amount of light coming into your camera.

This filter’s primary purpose is to help you create well-exposed photos when the light source is too intense.

Since an ND filter limits the light from coming into your camera, it’s also ideal for creating long exposures in the daytime. In contrast, creating a long exposure image without it will simply result in an overexposed image.

ND filters have different grades, which are called ND numbers. It starts with ND2 and can go all the way up to ND100,000. But keep in mind that most filter kits can only go up to ND8 or ND10.

The higher the ND filter’s ND number, the higher the f-stop reduction.

F-Stop reduction refers to the number of stops an ND filter shaves off from your exposure.

An ND2 filter has an F-Stop reduction of 1. So if your current setting has an aperture of f/22, adding the filter will lower it to f/20, which is equivalent to 1 stop. If you use an ND8, which has an f-stop reduction of 3, then you’ll end up with f/16.

What Are the Different Types of ND Filters?

ND filters come in a variety of shapes and sizes. We will not discuss all of them, but we will include the ones that are relevant to this technique.

Screw-On Filter

This type of filter is the most common in photography. As the name suggests, it screws on to the front of your lens. They are available in different sizes that fit specific lenses. If you use a lens with a 52mm diameter, then you’ll need to get one with the same measurement.

In most cases, these ND filters often come in a kit featuring at least four options – each with a designated ND number.

Variable ND Filter

This filter is a variation of the screw-on option. The only difference is that it comes with an adjustment ring that lets you change the ND number by twisting it. With this accessory, you won’t need to carry around an entire kit.

Slot-In ND Filter

This type of ND filter is square rather than round. Instead of screwing it on, you slot it into a filter holder installed in front of the lens. What makes this option better than the last two, is that you can use it on any lens whether the diameter is 52mm or 72mm.

How Does a Neutral Density Filter Remove People from Images?

When you look at long exposure images, you’ll notice moving objects appear as blurry streaks. If you open your shutter long enough, all that movement may not even register in your picture at all.

With this concept in mind, you can use an ND filter to lengthen your exposures and remove moving people in your images.

Can ND Filters Remove People from any Shot?

The simple answer is no. You see, several elements need to come together for this technique to work.

First, your shutter has to be open for at least a few seconds to remove people. For that to be possible, you’ll need to make sure that the light isn’t too bright even with ND filters.

Next, you need to make sure that moving objects don’t stay in the frame for the duration of the exposure.

In this image below, you can see a busker and his dog in the shot. Even though he’s moving, he stays in the same position throughout the exposure. As a result, he appears prominently in the final image.

It will also help if the number of moving elements in your image is low. If there are lots of people, you can’t guarantee they will all be out of your frame once your exposure ends. That’s why if you look at the photo above, the pedestrians still appear as blurry streaks as well.

Now that you know the limitations of this technique, you’ll know when and when not to use it.

Steps for Using ND Filters to Remove People in Photos

1. Wait for Sunrise to Avoid Bright Light and Big Crowds

Remember when we mentioned that ND filters aren’t foolproof if you want to remove people in photos? Well, going out during sunrise will help increase your chances of success.

You see, there aren’t many people in the morning. Even the most popular tourist spots tend not to be as busy during this time of day. The less you have to deal with the crowds, the better your photos are going to become.

During sunrise, you also have less light. And that’s good because that means you don’t have to use ND filters with high ND numbers.

2. Set Up Your Camera on a Tripod to Prevent Blurry Shots

We know that long exposures cause motion blur. This principle applies even when you just press the shutter with your finger.

When photographing buildings, you don’t want even the slightest motion blur. So make sure you place your camera on a tripod to keep it stable.

It will also help if you use a wireless remote to trigger the shutter. If you don’t have one, then you can try a self-timer instead. That way, your finger isn’t on the button by the time the exposure starts.

3. Adjust Your Camera Settings for Long Exposure

Your ISO is responsible for controlling your camera sensor’s ‘sensitivity’ to light. So if you’re doing long exposures, you need to make sure you adjust it to the lowest setting. In most cases, the lowest ISO value is 100.

Since you now just made your camera less sensitive to light, you can keep your shutter open for longer.

The next step is to switch your camera to Shutter Speed Priority. You can choose anywhere between 4 to 30 seconds, depending on the scene you’re shooting.

The secret is to time the people walking in and out of the frame. How long does it take them to walk from point A to point B on average? If it takes them about ten seconds, then maybe you can adjust your shutter speed to 12 or 15 seconds. Adding extra time helps you take care of the slower pedestrians.

A word of caution: You shouldn’t exclusively rely on the speed of walking pedestrians when adjusting your shutter speed. Think of it more as a guide.

What’s more crucial is that you tweak your settings to make sure your exposure is correct. It doesn’t matter if people walk in and out of your frame for ten seconds. If your shot ends up overexposed, then it wouldn’t work. So choose the shutter speed that’s long enough for pedestrians but would still achieve a good exposure.

Once you set your shutter speed, look at your aperture value. Has it reached the minimum aperture of either f/22 or f/32? If you see those numbers blinking on your screen, that means you will end up with an overexposed image.

So the next step is to install an ND filter on your lens.

4. Install an ND Filter to Correct Your Exposure

The goal is to get that f/32 to stop blinking because it means that you’ll finally get a correct exposure. And the best way to do that is to screw on your ND filter (since it limits the light coming into the lens, remember?).

Since you’re shooting in the daytime, a high ND number would work best. So feel free to screw on an ND4 or an ND8 right away.

Now look the screen and see if your aperture value is still blinking. If it stops or if it goes down to f/20 or lower, then that means you’re ready to take photos. If it doesn’t, go to the next higher ND filter.

But what if you’re already using the highest ND number in your kit, and the aperture value is still blinking? Then it’s time to start stacking!

5. Stack ND Filters to Cut Down the Light Even More

If even your highest ND filter isn’t enough to limit the light coming in, then it’s time to do some stacking.

Stacking is a technique that involves screwing a filter on top of another.

If you already have an ND8 on your camera, you can stack an ND4 on top of it. Doing so allows you to increase your f-stop reduction even more.

The issue with stacking is that the more filters you screw on, the poorer the quality of your image. This problem becomes even more apparent when you have a cheap filter kit.

To retain your image quality, consider limiting your stacking to two filters. Adding more may start to degrade your photo’s sharpness and even compromise the colors.

6. Switch to Manual Mode to Dial In Your Exposure

At the start of the tutorial, we told you to use Shutter Speed Priority to achieve the correct exposure. But it may not always get the results you want.

If you want more control over your exposure, then you’ll need to switch to Manual Mode.

The trick is to remember the aperture and shutter speed values from Shutter Speed Priority Mode. That way, you don’t have to guess where to start with your settings.

Once you switch to Manual Mode, set your aperture and shutter speed to the same settings you had in Shutter Speed Priority. From there, you can adjust the values up or down to nail your exposure.

Of course, you have the freedom to choose whether to adjust the shutter speed or the aperture. But I suggest that you start with the aperture first before we tinker with the shutter speed.

Why? Because the shutter speed is the key to creating the motion blur. And if you end up using the wrong value, then you will not be successful in removing people from your pictures.

7. Take the Money Shot!

Now that you have your ND filter on the lens and your settings dialled in, it’s time to take the shot.

This process requires a lot of trial and error. So if you want to remove people from your shots, it would help if you take a few photos instead of one.

Always wait for the least amount of people before you press the shutter. That way, you have a better chance to remove them in your shot.

Conclusion

Remember that the best way to remove people from your shot is to avoid them in the first place.

The ND filter approach is not perfect. So you should only use it to remove people when you don’t have any other alternatives.

The secret is to make sure you stay away from bright light and heavy foot traffic. If you keep these two factors in mind, then you have the best chance to remove people from the scene.

Still interested in learning more about ND filters? Check our article on using neutral density filters for landscape photography! You can also try this alternative to remove people and objects from photos. 
Learn the secrets of long exposure photography with our course – Infinite Exposures!