But because the definition is loose, it can be the perfect genre for almost any photographer.

With the right lenses, you can produce high-quality fine art photos.

Read on for our top choices for the best lens for fine art photography. But first, here’s our top choice.

Our Top 3 Choices for The Best Lens For Fine Art Photography

Canon EF 50mm F/1.8 STM

Canon EF 50mm F/1.8 STM

Canon EF 50mm F/1.2L USM

Canon EF 50mm F/1.2L USM

Tamron SP 45mm F/1.8 Di VC USD F013 for Nikon F

Tamron SP 45mm F/1.8 Di VC USD F013 for Nikon F

The Best Lens for Fine Art Photography

And before we look at choosing the best lens for fine art photography in detail, here’s a round-up of all the lenses in this review.

Amazing Value Allrounder

Canon EF 50mm F/1.8 STM

Canon EF 50mm F/1.8 STM

• Very cheap for high quality optics
• Fast f/1.8 maximum aperture
• Very quiet STM AF motor
• Very compact and light

Best Premium Canon Standard Lens

Canon EF 50mm F/1.2L USM

Canon EF 50mm F/1.2L USM

• Incredibly sharp wide-open
• Fast and silent AF
• Maximum aperture of f/1.2 is great for low-light
• Solid 'L' series construction and weather sealing

Best Standard Lens With IS

Tamron SP 45mm F/1.8 Di VC USD F013 for Nikon F

Tamron SP 45mm F/1.8 Di VC USD F013 for Nikon F

• Quick, silent AF performance
• Fast f/1.8 maximum aperture
• Soft, creamy bokeh
• Image stabilization

Best Compact Lens for Canon

Canon EF 40mm f/2.8 STM Prime Lens

Canon EF 40mm f/2.8 STM Prime Lens

• Canon's smallest EF lens
• Super-sharp optics
• Always-available manual focus
• Great value

Best Soft-Focus Lens

Lensbaby 56mm f/1.6 Prime Lens for Nikon F-Mount

Lensbaby 56mm f/1.6 Prime Lens for Nikon F-Mount

• Unique combination of sharpness and softness
• Fast f/1.6 maximum aperture
• Maximum 1:2 magnification for close-up work
• Manual focus

Best Allround Nikon Zoom

Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 24-85mm F/3.5-4.5G ED VR

Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 24-85mm F/3.5-4.5G ED VR

• Great price for an all-round lens
• Focal length range can span a number of genres
• Portable and lightweight
• Sharp and clear optics

Best Speciality Lens

Meyer Optik Görlitz Trioplan 35mm f/2.8 Fujifilm X-mount

Meyer Optik Görlitz Trioplan 35mm f/2.8 Fujifilm X-mount

• Specialist 'soap bubble' lens
• Available in ten different mounts
• All-metal construction hand-made in Germany
• Unrivalled bokeh

Best 85mm Lens

Sigma 85mm F/1.4 EX DG HSM for Canon EF

Sigma 85mm F/1.4 EX DG HSM for Canon EF

• Excellent optical quality
• Great value at the price
• Solid build quality
• Smooth, attractive bokeh

Best Nikon 35mm Lens

Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 35mm F/1.4G

Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 35mm F/1.4G

• Fast maximum f/1.4 aperture
• Good bokeh for a 35mm lens
• Always-available manual focus
• Fast and quiet AF

Best Standard Zoom for Canon

Canon EF 24-70mm F/2.8L II USM

Canon EF 24-70mm F/2.8L II USM

• Super sharp at all apertures and focal lengths
• Constant, fast f/2.8 maximum aperture
• Weather sealed for lens durability
• Always-available manual focus

10 Best Fine Art Lenses Ranked

Fine art photography doesn’t have any specific requirements.

Many photographers agree that fine art is something that makes you feel. It’s something you’d want to hang on your walls. Fine art tends to have perfect compositions and thought-provoking subjects.

Fine art covers a wide variety of genres. No matter what you like to photograph, you can create fine art.

It’s important to note that almost anyone can be a fine art photographer. It’s all about perspective. You can have the cheapest equipment and still be capable of creating stunning photographs.

However, the more advanced your equipment, the more creative possibilities you’ll have.

Fine art is all about breaking the rules and redefining your version of creativity. Because of this, you might find it helpful to experiment with some of the best fine art lenses in the market.

1. Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 STM

Brand	Brand Canon
Maximum Aperture	Maximum Aperture f/ 1.8
Focal Length Range	Focal Length Range 50 mm
Image Stabilization	Image Stabilization
What makes this a great Fine Art lens?	What makes this a great Fine Art lens? Canon keeps it simple with this lens, delivering great sharpness at a low price.

×

Canon EF 50mm F/1.8 STM

Amazon

$125.00

Buy Now!

Most camera companies have a 50mm f/1.8 lens. This lens is one of the cheapest and best prime lenses out there.

The 50mm f/1.8 is extremely versatile for its price. It works well in nighttime conditions and creates soft bokeh. This versatility makes it the ideal lens for every photographer out there.

If you want to create high-quality fine art on a budget, this lens will likely serve you well.

2. Canon EF 50mm f/1.2L USM

Brand	Brand Canon
Maximum Aperture	Maximum Aperture f/ 1.2
Focal Length Range	Focal Length Range 50 mm
Image Stabilization	Image Stabilization
What makes this a great Fine Art lens?	What makes this a great Fine Art lens? A solid, pro-level 50mm with a very fast maximum aperture.

×

Canon EF 50mm F/1.2L USM

Amazon

Check Price

Buy Now!

With a maximum aperture of f/1.2, this lens offers brilliant focusing and bokeh opportunities. This is a robust little lens that’s ideal for photographers who travel a lot. It works well in harsh weather conditions.

It has a Super Spectra coating that’s meant to avoid lens flares and ghosting.

Because of these capabilities, it can be a useful lens for fine art landscape and travel photographers.

3. Tamron SP 45mm f/1.8 Di VC USD

Brand	Brand Tamron
Maximum Aperture	Maximum Aperture f/ 1.8
Focal Length Range	Focal Length Range 45 mm
Image Stabilization	Image Stabilization
What makes this a great Fine Art lens?	What makes this a great Fine Art lens? With a fast maximum aperture and image stabilization, this is perfect for demanding light conditions.

×

Tamron SP 45mm F/1.8 Di VC USD F013 for Nikon F

Amazon

$529.00

Buy Now!

The Tamron 45mm f/1.8 promises to create high-quality and atmospheric images. Like other f/1.8 lenses, it can create soft and creamy bokeh. You can get closer to subjects than with a standard 50mm lens.

This is perfect for fine art photographers who want to zoom in and out often.

The 45mm f/1.8 is very quick and silent. You can use it easily in nighttime conditions without having to worry about compromising the quality of your photos.

4. Canon EF 40mm f/2.8 STM

Brand	Brand Canon
Maximum Aperture	Maximum Aperture f/ 2.8
Focal Length Range	Focal Length Range 40 mm
Image Stabilization	Image Stabilization

×

Canon EF 40mm f/2.8 STM Prime Lens

Amazon

$247.99

Buy Now!

Canon’s 40mm f/2.8 lens is a pancake lens. Pancake lenses are tiny and light. This size makes them ideal for photographers who travel often.

It shoots very quietly, making it the perfect tool for fine art street photographers. The maximum aperture is f/2.8, so you won’t be able to create incredibly soft bokeh with it.

However, it can be an excellent tool for people who want to capture more atmospheres and details in their fine art photos.

5. Lensbaby 56mm f/1.6 Velvet

Brand	Brand Lensbaby
Maximum Aperture	Maximum Aperture f/ 1.6
Focal Length Range	Focal Length Range 56 mm
Image Stabilization	Image Stabilization
What makes this a great Fine Art lens?	What makes this a great Fine Art lens? The Velvet range of lenses brings a dreamy, unique look to your pictures.

×

Lensbaby 56mm f/1.6 Prime Lens for Nikon F-Mount

Amazon

$449.95

Buy Now!

The Velvet 56 is one of Lensbaby’s many creative lenses. It’s one of the best lenses for fine art photography because of its versatility.

You can use this lens to take dreamy and surreal fine art photos of people, landscapes, food, and even insects. The lens has macro capabilities so that you can get extremely close to details.

This lens is excellent for photographers who enjoy taking soft and cinematic photos.

6. Nikon AF-S FX 24-85mm f/3.5-4.5 ED VR

Brand	Brand Nikon
Maximum Aperture	Maximum Aperture f/ 4.5
Focal Length Range	Focal Length Range 24-85 mm
Image Stabilization	Image Stabilization
What makes this a great Fine Art lens?	What makes this a great Fine Art lens? Sharp reproductions and ease of use make this a great choice.

×

Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 24-85mm F/3.5-4.5G ED VR

Amazon

$496.95

Buy Now!

Nikon’s 24-85mm lens may not be your standard fine art photography lens, but it seems to do its job perfectly. Famous fine art photographer Alessio Albi uses this lens to take detailed photos of people.

The lens provides excellent clarity. It captures colors very well. Like the 40mm f/2.8, it won’t create the creamiest background possible. If you like photographing details in your fine art, you’re likely to love this lens.

7. Sigma 85mm f/1.4 DG HSM Art

Brand	Brand Sigma
Maximum Aperture	Maximum Aperture f/ 1.4
Focal Length Range	Focal Length Range 85 mm
Image Stabilization	Image Stabilization
What makes this a great Fine Art lens?	What makes this a great Fine Art lens? Super sharp optics and overall quality, at an attractive price.

×

Sigma 85mm F/1.4 EX DG HSM for Canon EF

Amazon

$999.95

Buy Now!

Sigma’s 85mm lens is one of the sharpest lenses out there. Its primary use is in portrait photography, but you might find it very useful in all genres of fine art photography.

It’s one of the cheapest 85mm lenses in the market.

The 85mm f/1.4 works immensely well with colors and details. It’s ideal for fine art photographers who want to include people in most of their work. You’ll be able to photograph perfect skin tones with this lens.

An important thing to note is that this lens is weighty. It’s not ideal for light traveling. The lens itself is also quite large. This size might be a problem if you often use lens filters.

8. Nikon AF-S FX 35mm f/1.4

Brand	Brand Nikon
Maximum Aperture	Maximum Aperture f/ 1.4
Focal Length Range	Focal Length Range 35 mm
Image Stabilization	Image Stabilization
What makes this a great Fine Art lens?	What makes this a great Fine Art lens? Lovely, fast maximum aperture and clear optics.

×

Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 35mm F/1.4G

Amazon

$1,696.95

Buy Now!

A lens like this Nikon is perfect for both indoor and outdoor fine art photographers. Even if you shoot in a small space, you’ll be able to take atmospheric fine art photos.

Extra tip: Wide-angle lenses can create distortions. Unless that’s the look you’re going for, don’t get too close to your subject.

9. Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L II USM

Brand	Brand Canon
Maximum Aperture	Maximum Aperture f/ 2.8
Focal Length Range	Focal Length Range 24-70 mm
Image Stabilization	Image Stabilization
What makes this a great Fine Art lens?	What makes this a great Fine Art lens? Solidly built with a fast maximum aperture and lovely, sharp optics.

×

Canon EF 24-70mm F/2.8L II USM

Amazon

$1,899.00

Buy Now!

It was discontinued a few years ago and replaced with the Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L II USM. Both have similar capabilities, but the updated version promises to have fewer distortions.

Fine art photographers like Robert Woodcox have used this lens. It’s versatile and perfect for all kinds of shooting conditions. You can zoom in to create an intimate feel or zoom out to capture more of the surrounding details.

If you take photos of different subjects (e.g. landscapes and people), you will likely enjoy using this lens.

Conclusion

You can take your fine art ideas to the next level with these lenses.

Don’t be afraid of experimenting with unusual techniques and equipment to make your fine art look outstanding.

And there’s no better place to start with choosing a lens than our top choice.

Our Top 3 Choices for The Best Lens For Fine Art Photography

Canon EF 50mm F/1.8 STM

Canon EF 50mm F/1.8 STM

Canon EF 50mm F/1.2L USM

Canon EF 50mm F/1.2L USM

Tamron SP 45mm F/1.8 Di VC USD F013 for Nikon F

Tamron SP 45mm F/1.8 Di VC USD F013 for Nikon F

Common Fine Art Photography Questions

What is the best camera for fine art photography?

Almost any camera works well with fine art photography. Some of the best fine art cameras are the Canon 5D Mark IV, Sony A7 III, and Nikon D750.

What is an art lens in photography?

Art lenses are high-quality lenses that create very sharp photos. They usually have large apertures, like f/1.2, to create soft backgrounds and sharp bokeh. These lenses are perfect for fine art and portrait photography.

Convenient And Customizable

Shutterfly Print Store

Discover the highest quality photos printed on glass at our online store. Choose from a range of sizes and finishes, and enjoy our 100% satisfaction guarantee and free shipping on orders over $39.

Photos Printed On Glass: What’s Better—Glass or Acrylic?

It’s unlikely that you’ll find agreement on this. Some people say that glass is better because it lasts longer. It won’t degrade with prolonged exposure to ultraviolet (UV) light. And it won’t attract dust in the same way.

Others point out that glass is inherently fragile. It is often heavier than acrylic prints. It can have sharp edges. And it will almost certainly break if you drop it.

But I’m going to look at glass print services rather than acrylic prints. And there are quite a few of them out there. Glass printing is still quite a specialist service. It’s unlikely you’ll find someone locally that does it. But like metal prints and other specialty products, you arrange your glass photo printing online and have them delivered. Glass prints certainly have the potential to create a stunning display of wall art.

What Type of Glass Prints Are Available?

One of the problems comparing glass printing services is that there is such a variety available. Comparing like-with-like can be tricky. But we’ll help you unravel the various options. The main choice, apart from the size, is curved vs flat and wall-mounted vs free-standing.

But there is also the question of opaque backing or translucent. Different printers offer different types. But don’t worry, I’ll steer you through your options.

1. Fracture

There’s a parachute school in Prague called “Impakt.” “Fracture” seems like a similarly bad name for a glass photo print service. But we’re not here to judge.

Fracture is proud of its environmental credentials. They are a carbon-neutral company and fulfill their orders from their manufacturing plant in Florida. So when your prints arrive, you won’t find packing peanuts or bubble wrap. And they ship internationally.

Fracture offers six print sizes, from 5 x 5 inches (12.5 x 12.5 cm), to 21.6 x 28.8 inches (55 x 73 cm). Their printing process prints every color but white on the surface of the glass. The ink is then cured instantly with UV light. Thick white ink is then applied to the rear of the glass.

You can choose original glossy or a matte finish. A mounting card is fixed to the rear of the print. This allows easy fixing to the wall with a simple screw (supplied) or as a stand-up photo.

Another display option is their Storyboard—a wooden shelf with three grooves to allow prints to be layered. Or you can choose their Photo Wall. Here you upload your photos to a layout of your choice. They are delivered to you in their various sizes with a paper template to mark the screw locations on your wall.

Fracture glass prints have rounded edges to make them safe. Unlike some prints, they are not designed to let light through. The simplicity of the system and the company’s green credentials make this a good choice, especially if the sizes they offer suit your needs.

2. Snapfish

While Fracture only sells glass prints, Snapfish sells dozens of different print media. Perhaps as a consequence of that, their glass prints are much more limited. They offer two sizes 5 x 7 inches (12.5 x 17 cm) and 8 x 10 inches (20.5 x 25.5 cm).

The gloss-only prints are on bevel-edged glass and come with acrylic blocks to stand them up. The price is similar to Fracture, but the two sites sell prints of different sizes. Overall, there is not as much flexibility in size or presentation methods. Although Snapfish has European and Australian websites, the glass prints are unavailable there. The US store only delivers to US addresses.

3. Beyondprint

Like Snapfish, Beyondprint offers a range of print services. You can choose metal, wood, fine art paper, or even poster-size self-adhesive prints.

Not only do they offer 38 different size combinations of glass print, but they also offer custom sizes. The glass has a glossy finish (actually, the firm is Finnish too). The glass is 1/4 inch (7 mm) thick, with polished bevel edges.

One of their selling points is that the print is weatherproof, so it can be used in damp areas and even outside. The glass is fitted with a hanging plate and wall spacers, so they hang parallel to the wall.

The prices are very competitive, so it is a pity that they only ship to Europe. But they did say “currently” when I asked them about only shipping to Europe. So maybe that will change.

4. Shutterfly

Shutterfly is a well-known print-to-order company. They have a seemingly endless range of products, of which glass prints are one. You can order flat or curved. Flat prints are available in five sizes from 5 x 7 inches (12.5 x 17 cm) to 10 x 12 inches (25.5 x 30.5 cm). Curved prints are available in four sizes from 5 x 7 inches (12.5 x 17 cm) to 10 x 12 inches (25.5 x 30.5 cm).

Unlike the prints we have seen so far, these are designed to be displayed against a light source, allowing the light to shine through. They come with quite large beveled edges and acrylic blocks to support them on a table.

Prices are similar to Snapfish. Interestingly, an 8 x 10-inch print will cost less than one of Shutterfly’s framed prints. And Shutterfly delivers to over 100 countries worldwide.

5. MyPhoto

MyPhoto produces glass prints on what they claim is the “world’s lightest wall art.” It is a similar product to mobile phone screen glass. AirGlass prints are available in four sizes, from 5 x 7 inches (12.5 x 17 cm) to 12 x 12 inches (30.5 x 30.5 cm).

They come with a mounting block with reusable mounting tape. Weighing just 2.8 oz (79 g), you simply stick them to your wall. And if you want to move them, they should come right off, leaving no mark and no screw holes. Prices are attractive, in line with Beyondprint.

MyPhoto’s Infinity Glass photo prints are thicker and heavier but are more expensive. They have a small, clear border and rounded corners. They come with an acrylic stand or wall-mounting plate.

Five sizes are available with a stand and three for wall-mounting. The smallest is 4 x 4 inches (10 x 10 cm) and the largest 11 x 14 inches (28 x 36 cm).

MyPhoto offers free shipping on orders over $79 but only delivers to US addresses.

6. Prints on Glass

Well, there are no questions about the services offered by Prints on Glass. Although they also offer acrylic, glass, and metal. Their specialty is large-scale printing. They make kitchen and bathroom splashbacks and even glass memorials for gravestones.

You can choose custom sizes from 4 x 4 inches (10 x 10 cm) up to 19.6 x 10. 8 feet (6 x 3.3 m). Pretty much any combination of opaque, translucent, and transparent is available. The glass prints can be specified for outdoor use and are UV sealed for long life.

This probably isn’t the choice if you’re looking for a picture of your graduation for your grandparents. But if you’re looking for something quite off-the-wall (or on-the-wall), then it is worth a look. Prints on Glass are based in Australia but ship worldwide.

7. Cameo Glass Prints

Cameo is another specialist glass print producer. As well as curved and flat prints, they make glass trays, coasters, tree ornaments, and cutting boards.

Curved glass prints are self-supporting. They can be viewed from both sides and come in seven sizes. The smallest is 5 x 7 inches (12.5 x 17 cm) and the largest is 10 x 14 inches (25.5 x 36 cm). These are only available in landscape format.

The flat glass prints are available in three rectangular formats (landscape or portrait) and one square. Sizes range from 5 x 7 inches (12.5 x 17 cm) to 8 x 10 inches (20.5 x 25.5 cm). You can view the prints from both sides, so you can put them against a light source. They come with a small metal peg on the bottom edge to support the glass print.

Prices are on a par with Shutterfly, and Cameo Glass Prints ship worldwide. They’re worth looking at if you are interested in some of the other glass print products they make.

Conclusion

The world of choosing a glass print for your photos can be quite confusing. What you choose depends on what you want and where you live. It also depends on how you want to display your photos.

If you live in the US and want to hang your glass prints on the wall, then MyPhoto offers a great service. It’s great to be able to make a display without drilling holes. Or to be able to change your mind.

In Europe, Beyondprint has an impressive selection of sizes and offers custom glass pictures. This makes them an attractive proposition. Especially as they are weatherproof and can be used outdoors.

If you want to emphasize the glassiness of your prints and have the light come through them, then Cameo Glass Prints seems like the best choice. Wherever you live, they can supply you with a print that takes advantage of the medium’s unique characteristics.

Finally, if you want something truly out of the ordinary, like a splashback, or a statement wall artwork, then Prints on Glass fit the bill. It’s not a cheap option, but the possibilities are almost endless. They’re one of the few options for large glass photo prints.

Convenient And Customizable

Shutterfly Print Store

Discover the highest quality photos printed on glass at our online store. Choose from a range of sizes and finishes, and enjoy our 100% satisfaction guarantee and free shipping on orders over $39.

What is Digital Collage?

Digital collage is pictures made up of multiple images with editing software. It is a graphic design technique that transforms photos. We use cuts, additions, and placements to create a new context.
Digital collage takes the same cut-and-stick approach as traditional collage. But we apply it in a digital environment.
We still cut and stick. But we do these actions in Adobe Photoshop.
We can trace around our chosen subject and delete the rest. And we can use other creative Photoshop techniques in different parts of our collage.
We can create a background and then add layers of details. Luckily, Photoshop allows us to move layers around. We can reposition elements without tearing them down.

How Are Digital Collages Used?

You often see digital collages created for advertisements. Designers put images together on bright colored backgrounds to grab people’s attention.
Creating birthday or Christmas cards is a fun, practical use for digital collages. Or, if you master digital collage art, you can create custom designs. Check fabric sizes for pillows, blankets, and clothing. Then open a Photoshop document with the exact dimensions.
Digital collages are also often used in the art world as well. It is an art form perfected by many artists.

How to Make Digital Collage Art

There are two different types of collages. One involves different layers on top of different layers. The other is a well-curated page of pictures in different frames or grid formats.
I will guide you through the first example in this Adobe Photoshop tutorial. We will create this artistic, abstract collage.

Step 1: Select Photos for the Digital Collage

First, we source some photos for our digital collage. I used the free stock image site Unsplash for all my material.
What’s the best aspect of digital collage compared to paper collage? You have the whole internet to find your virtual images and photographs!
I started by looking for a subject to make the main focus of my image. I chose a picture of a woman.
Then I selected crinkled paper for my background for some texture. And I looked for multiple images to provide other interesting details and textures:

• a starry sky
• fire
• foamy ocean water

Step 2: Cut Out a Section of the Main Subject

We will start by cutting out part of the subject so we can reveal an image beneath it,
I opened the image of the woman as a separate document in Adobe Photoshop.

Then I duplicated the background layer. A copy will appear above your background in the Layers panel.

Grab the Pen tool from the left-hand toolbar. Make sure you set the Pen tool to ‘Path’ in the top drop-down menu. Then, slowly go around the section you want to remove with the Pen tool.
I traced around the woman’s face to leave the hair and clothes of the subject. When you have done this, be sure to close the path.

Now, make your path a ‘Selection’ in the Pen tool’s menu at the top of your screen. This brings up a dialogue box. You can tailor the settings to your preference.
The feather radius is most important. It gradually blends the line of your path.

After pressing enter, ‘marching ants appear around your selection. With your top layer selected, press the backspace button on your keyboard.
This will get rid of the area inside your selection. If you hide the bottom background layer, your image should look like the ‘after shot’,

Step 2: Add a Detailed Layer Underneath Your Subject

Now, let’s add one of the detailed images we selected to reveal in the cut-out space. In my case, I used a starry sky image.
Open the image onto your subject.

Then drag the new layer underneath your top layer in the Layers panel.

This will make the stars appear where the woman’s face once was. You have the freedom to move your image around behind the subject for the best look.

After finding the best position, you can cut out the image and drop it onto your background.
Grab the Crop tool and make and reframe the subject. And to finish it off, go to Layer > Flatten Image.

Step 3: Use Collage Elements to Create Different Layers

Background Layer

First, let’s get our background image up. I cropped my page to a ratio size that I liked.

Fire Layer

I added another detailed element to my image that my subject could sit on—the fire image.
If additions don’t work, we can always take them out. That is the best part about creating a digital collage.

Subject Layer

Now, go back to your subject. Grab the single layer from this edit and drop it onto your background.

This is how your image should look. With the Transformation tool (Command/Ctrl+T), you can move around your elements.

Rectangle Layer

I added a block of color to show how you can add shapes in Photoshop. First, select the Rectangle tool from the left-hand toolbar.
Choose ‘Shape’ in the drop-down menu and select the Color Picker. Here, you can choose any color you like to put in your digital collage.

Then drag out your Rectangle tool to place the red shape on your image.
Remember, you can adjust where the layer sits on your image in the Layers panel. I placed the red rectangle above the fire layer but below the subject layer.
After picking the place it sits, you can always adjust its size and shape with Command/Ctrl+T.

Step 4: Cut and Stick More Collage Elements

Let’s look at another way to use the cut-and-stick method. I wanted to add slivers of the foamy ocean for texture.
Start by duplicating the background layer. Then grab the Rectangle Marquee tool from the top of the toolbar and choose your selected sliver.

Next, inverse this selection using Command/Ctrl+Shift+I and delete the selection by pressing the backspace.

Now, take this new layer and drop it onto your digital collage.

This is what it will look like on your image. Adjust the size using Command/Ctrl+T.

Another way to manipulate elements in a digital collage is to duplicate your material. Here, I dragged the sliver layer over the ‘Create new layer’ icon on the bottom of the Layers panel to create copies.

After spacing each layer out, my new section looked like this. And I turned the central element around to make this section a bit more interesting.
Press Command/Ctrl+T. Then turn the section 180°.

Step 4: Erase and Reveal Layers

Another creative use of Photoshop tools is using the Eraser tool. We can make it look as if we have cut through layers.
First, grab the Eraser tool from the left toolbar. Next, select the first layer you want to cut through. I chose the red rectangle layer.
I changed the radius of the Eraser tool and ‘cut out’ a circle of my choice.

I then selected the fire layer underneath and clicked on the exact location. This simple cut revealed the paper layer and gave the image a whole new dimension.

Conclusion

Digital collage can be as straightforward or as complex as you like. Use these techniques and others to create your visual graphic!
We can incorporate the cut-and-stick approach in many different ways. Bringing all the elements together in a balanced way can make for an exciting image.
A digital collage is like any other artwork. It takes time to get good at it. So start collecting some visual material and try it out for yourself!
Try out our Fantastic Photo Adventures course to tell whimsical stories with unique photos!

There are many apps to choose from. Some of them come with the basics and are designed for beginners. Others offer hundreds of tools for professional artists.

Whether you are looking for a drawing app to kill some time or for professional purposes, we are here to help. Along with paid ones, you will find the best free Android drawing apps that adjust to your needs.

Digital Art Creation

Capture It All

Looking for information on the best drawing apps for Android? Upgrade your photography skills with a video course that covers everything your iPhone camera can do. Capture It All now for only $99.

10 Best Painting and Drawing Apps for Android

Drawing apps are an excellent tool for people dedicated to this style of art. The following list covers the best drawing and painting apps for Android.

1. Infinite Painter

Infinite Painter is our top pick for the best drawing app Android offers.

This app comes with over 160 brushes and allows you to create your own. It offers the opportunity to tailor the existing brushes and adapt them to your needs.

The app’s drawing tools are designed to resemble painting over real paper textures. This feature allows the users to paint realistically using a digital device. It is practical if you prefer traditional painting but can’t transport your canvas everywhere.

Infinite Painter comes with several useful tools. You can paint in layers, use Photoshop blend modes, or even draw 3D cityscapes with perspective guides.

Infinite Painter features a user-friendly interface. All tools and workflows are organized well. You will be able to use this software easily, even if you are not familiar with these apps.

This app is free. But many features are only available through in-app purchases.

2. Simple Draw Pro

Simple Draw is one of the best apps for beginners. It is also a good option for kids, as it is easy to use.

This paid app comes with different paint and pen sizes. It allows you to set different background colors or use a photo as the background.

Simple Draw allows you to easily share your sketches through social networks or messages. It supports JPG, PNG, or SVG vectors.

This app is not suitable for advanced digital arts. It doesn’t come with airbrushes, masks, or layers. But it’s still a good app if you are looking to have some fun doodling around.

3. Sketchbook

Sketchbook is one of those all-in-one drawing apps that’s worth a try. The app allows everything from simple sketches to professional artwork.

This award-winning app offers customizable tools that are great for artists and professional illustrators. Sketchbook features different brush types, layers, and blend modes. All brushes are fully customizable.

This drawing app also offers guides and rulers that provide precision for a professional job. The interface is elegant and simple. And it doesn’t come with ads!

The app offers the perfect place to focus on your work.

Sketchbook is free and it is compatible with Android 5.0.

4. ArtFlow

Artflow is one of the best drawing apps available for download. It comes with over 100 brushes and tools. And it supports pressure-sensitive pens and pressure simulation. These features make your painting experience more realistic.

This drawing app comes with some useful features such as Smudge, Fill, and Eraser tools. It features layer clipping and selection masks as well.

ArtFlow’s interface is intuitive and accessible. Although the app is meant for advanced users, the interface makes it easy to use for everyone.

The app supports PNG, JPG, and PSD formats.

Artflow is a paid app. But it offers a free version with only 20 basic tools and three layers.

5. ArtRage

ArtRage is a paid app that offers a realistic painting experience. It features textures and painting effects that resemble physical paint.

ArtRage is one of the best drawing apps for Android. It features advanced tools that let you measure how much paint you have used or how wet the paint is. Thanks to these tools, you can create realistic effects with watercolor and oil brushes.

It also offers layers, Photoshop blending modes, a Fill tool, and other great features.

ArtRage comes in a desktop version as well, which is compatible with the app for Android. The software allows you to export your paintings in PNG and JPG files.

6. Dotpict

Dotpict is one of the most specific drawing apps for Android. It is designed to create pixelated drawings.

The app is very easy to use. You just pick a color from the palette at the bottom of the screen and start drawing. After you finish, you can share your art with other users or export your drawing in PNG format.

You can also look for inspiration in the app’s gallery, where other users post their art.

7. Tayasui Sketches Lite

Tayasui is another one of the best drawing apps for Android devices. It comes with many tools perfect for digital artists.

Although it is sophisticated, it’s straightforward to use thanks to its user-friendly interface.

Tayasui is one of the best drawing apps you can find for creating realistic art. The app features several brushes, unlimited layers, patterns, and gradients. It comes with a feature to mix colors and get the perfect shade.

Tayasui is one of the best Android apps for artists who wish to bring their art with them everywhere they go.

8. Adobe Illustrator Draw

Adobe Illustrator Draw is a great drawing app for illustrators, graphic designers, and artists. It offers hundreds of professional tools to create vector artwork.

One of the advantages of this painting app is that it allows you to send your drawings in an editable format to Photoshop, Illustrator, Capture One, or Photoshop Sketch. This feature lets you edit the picture on your desktop.

The app allows you to zoom in up to 64x so that you can add fine details. It comes with five pen tips and works with layers.

Adobe Illustrator Draw is a free mobile app available for Android devices.

9. Ibis Paint X

Ibis Paint X is one of the most versatile drawing apps for Android. It features many functional tools like layers, filters, fonts, blending modes, clipping masks, and more.

This app comes with over 2000 brushes. It offers airbrushes, pencils, oil brushes, crayons, charcoal brushes, and digital pens, among other professional brushes.

This app allows you to record your drawing process and share it with other users. It offers tutorial videos on its YouTube channel that will help you take full advantage of the software.

Ibis Paint X offers a limited free version and a fully paid version with monthly and yearly plans.

10. InspirARTion

Our last recommendation for the best drawing apps for Android is InspirARTion. This app is not as popular as the rest on our list, but it’s still a great option. It features a symmetry mode, a large variety of colors, and several brushes and templates.

This drawing app is perfect if you draw as a hobby. It’s easy to use and it’s completely free.

Conclusion—Best Drawing Apps for Android

Drawing apps are an excellent alternative for artists and drawing enthusiasts alike. They offer tools that make digital art resemble realistic drawings and paintings. They also allow you to draw and paint with many types of pens, brushes, and techniques. And you don’t have to bring your actual drawing kit with you!

Are you looking for creative photographic inspiration with minimal gear and setup? Grab our The Creative Photography Cookbook e-book for cool, unusual, and magical ideas.

Digital Art Creation

Capture It All

Looking for information on the best drawing apps for Android? Upgrade your photography skills with a video course that covers everything your iPhone camera can do. Capture It All now for only $99.

Becoming a Fantasy Photographer: What is Fantasy Photography?

Fantasy Photography is a genre that uses photography to create another world. The photographers use strong elements of imagination and surrealism.
Fantasy Photography is connected to other forms of fantasy art, like literature and film. You see many of the same themes and motifs throughout the fantasy genre.
Much of the imagery comes from folklore and fairy tales. There are elements of magic and mythology. Fantasy photographers use recognisable tropes to transport us to a different reality.
Fantasy photographers elaborate costumes and intricate settings to set their scenes. And they also use many photo manipulation techniques to strengthen the magical elements within their work.
Fantasy photography can incorporate many different types of photography. It can include surrealism, fine art, portraits, and self-portraits.

25 Influential Fantasy Photographers

If you’re still unsure of what fantasy photography can offer you, then check out our list of the 25 most influential fantasy photographers.
If you’re already a big fan of fantasy photography, keep reading. We’re sure you’ll find something new and exciting on our list!

Platon Yurich | @platon_yurich

Erik Johansson | @erik.joh

Nicolas Bruno | @nicolasbruno

Jovana Rikalo | @jovanarikalo

Rosie Hardy | @georgiarosehardy

Natacha Einat | @skip_closer

Bella Kotak | @bellakotak

Joel Robison | @joelrobison

Luisa Azevedo | @hey.luisa

Herri Susanto | @nak_bali_

Julian Majin | @julianmajin

Katerina Plotnikova | @_katerinaplotnikova_

Fabiola | @glindaizabel

Adam Martinakis | @adamamrtinakis

Anya Anti | @anya_anti

Kirsty Mitchell | @kirstymitchellphotography

Stanislav Istratov | @flexdreamscom

Alice Alinary | @alice_alinari

Maia Flore | @maiaflore

Laurent Chéhére | @laurentchehere

Anil Saxena | @anildigitalartist

Tommy Ingberg | @tommyingberg

Kylli Sparre | @kylli_sparre

Gabe Tomoiaga | @gabetomoiaga

Jairo Alvarez | @jairoalvarezphoto

Logan Zillmer | @loganzillmerphoto

Conclusion

That’s our list of the most 25 most influential fantasy photographers to follow! We hope you’ll find plenty of great fantasy photography to inspire you.
You can create your own world. You can imagine new characters and tell unique stories. Or you can bring elements of fantasy into other areas of photography.
Let your imagination run wild and lose yourself in a world of pure imagination.

15 Best Cinemagraph Apps

A cinemagraph is a visual art form consisting of a still photo in which one part is animated. The selected area plays in a never-ending loop, forming a short video clip.
Also called ‘moving pictures’, cinemagraphs have become popular to grab the audience’s attention. They are usually found in advertising and social media.
If you are a photographer, cinemagraphs can make a great addition to your portfolio.
If you want to explore this trend and create images in this format, this post is for you. We will help you find the best cinemagraph app to create masterpieces easily!

1. Cinemagraph Pro for iOS

If you have an iPhone or an iPad, the best photo moving app we can recommend is Cinemagraph Pro for iOS.
This is a great tool for those who are starting in this trend. It provides tutorials on how to use the app and get the best out of it.
Cinemagraph Pro allows you to add filters to every frame of the video, enhancing the visual experience.
Aside, the app offers a large gallery of cinemagraph creatives. You can scroll on this gallery to get inspiration to create the best moving picture.
To use the app, you need to upload your video and select the part you would like to animate. The rest of the video will remain still.

2. Cinemagraph

The Cinemagraph app also has a version for Android users. This app is straightforward to use, perfect for those who don’t want to spend too much time with complicated software.
The app works exactly like the iPhone version. You need to select the area you would like to animate and the one you would like to maintain still. Yet, for this version, all footage must be filmed with the app’s camera, unlike the iOS Pro version.
Still, a great option for those Android users that look for a user-friendly cinemagraph app.

3. Clipgraph

Clipgraph is a photo motion app that features minimalist software. Its interface makes it easy for users to create content in seconds.
The disadvantage of this app is that it doesn’t come with any special effects or filters. Also, you cannot share the content directly from the app to social media.
Yet, it is a great cinemagraph software, and it is available for both Mac and Windows users.

4. Fotodanz

One of the best Android apps to create cinemagraphs on the go is Fotodanz. Its simplicity allows you to film images and video directly from the app. After that, you can easily use your finger to select the areas of the video you’d like to animate. As easy as that.
Fotodanz features a great interface for those users new to the technique.

5. Zoetropic

Zoetropic is one of the best cinemagraph apps available for download. It features exclusive overlays for images and videos. Aside, it comes with an audio library where you can pick a soundtrack for your moving picture.
The app works by setting the motion points on a still picture, which you blend to create the motion effect. Once you have done this, you can customize your motions with audio and visual effects.
This app is good for beginners who wish to practice with still images before starting to edit videos.

6. Draw Motion

Draw Motion app is a versatile cinemagraph software. It is available for both Android and iOS users. The app is easy to use and enables you to create cinemagraphs using a video or a Live Photo.
Aside, the app comes with a great video stabilizer feature. This feature allows you to enhance the quality of your videos.
The app offers quick share buttons to publish your content when you are on the go. Aside, you can export cinemagraphs to different formats in desired quality.
The app is free, but you will have to pay a couple of dollars to remove the watermark from your creations.

7. Motion Stills

Motion Stills is a cinemagraph software and time-lapse app created by Google.
This app, suitable for Android and iOS, comes with several editing tools. One of them is a video stabilization feature that will make your videos appear like still images.
Motion Stills offers several features to create great content. Aside, it lets you create movies by combining clips with a simple swipe.

8. Lumyer

Lumyer is an app that enables you to apply high-quality animated effects to your images. This is a great app to have fun by creating cinemagraphs and sharing them with your friends.
As an example, you can add to your images fireworks, moving lips, or flowing hair.
Lumyer is a great app for creatives. You can experiment with special effects you will not find in other cinemagraph apps.

9. Vimage

Vimage is a different kind of app for creating cinemagraphs. It does not take the animation from the original video. Instead, you can choose from a gallery of hundreds of effects, filters, presets, and animations that best suit your photo.
The multi-award-winning tool offers high-quality effects to animate any still picture in seconds.

10. PICOO Camera

PICOO Camera is a great cinemagraph app if you use an iOS device. This app works by highlighting a topic spot on your photo and then recording dynamic movements in it.
After capturing a living photo, you can add different filters to it. You can also visit the Explore section to get inspired for your next creation.

11. MaskArt

MaskArt is another iPhone app designed to create amazing cinemagraphs easily.
This cinemagraph animator provides a user-friendly interface. It allows you to select what part of the picture you would like to keep moving by touching with your finger.
MaskArt is one of the best cinemagraph apps at no cost. Yet, it is only available in the App Store for the United States.

12. Lumia Cinemagraph

Lumia Cinemagraph is an app designed for Microsoft mobile devices.
This cinemagraph maker comes with intuitive software. Aside, it features on-screen assistance to help you create moving pictures easily. Perfect for beginners.
After creating a cinemagraph, you can export it as a GIF file or share it via social media, email and messaging.
The only disadvantage about Lumia is that it exports GIFs as regular JPG files. Also, such files can only be viewed on Lumia devices.

13. Loopsie

Loopsie is a unique cinemagraph app available for iOS and Android devices. It is easy to use and comes with a stabilization algorithm. This feature helps you create amazing cinemagraphs without extra equipment.
This cinemagraph maker enables you to edit your photo’s depth. Aside, you can apply 3D stickers and add virtual lights and shadows.
Loopsie also comes with 3D photo processing. This estimates the depth of every pixel to reconstruct a 3D environment from a single photo.
You can download Loopsie for free, though it comes with in-app purchases.

14. BLINK Cliplets

BLINK Cliplets is one of the best cinemagraph apps available for Windows 7 devices. It comes with a streamlined interface, allowing users to create cinemagraphs out of 10-second video clips.
The application is easy to use: import your video and use the mouse to cut the element you want to keep in motion. The rest of the video will be static. Once your Cliplet is saved, you can export it in GIF format by clicking on the “Export Cliplet” button.

15. Liquivid Easy Cinemagraph

Liquivid Easy is a cinemagraph software only available for Mac. It features a simple interface design, making it easy for its users to create living photos.
Liquivid Easy Cinemagraph comes in five languages. It works by importing a video and selecting the areas you wish to remain static.
The app features 23 visual effects with six blending modes. In addition, it comes with presets with several aspect ratios. This way, you can share your creations on every social media platform.

Conclusion

Cinemagraphs are a fun, different way to communicate visually. The best part is that anyone can create a cinemagraph, as plenty of apps make it incredibly easy. No doubt why cinemagraphs have become popular on social media in the last few years.
There are many fun cinemagraph examples to get inspiration from. And with one of the apps in this list, you’ll have everything you need to get started with your own cinemagraphs.
We hope we have helped you figure out which cinemagraph maker is right for you. We are sure that by using these apps, you will become a cinemagraph pro in no time!
If you want to learn more about making stunning cinemagraphs, check out our Magical Photography Spellbook eBook!

What Is a Cinemagraph?

The cinemagraph was described by Osho Coco as “more than a photo, but not quite a video.”
A cinemagraph is a cross between a still photograph and a moving video. The majority of the frame is completely still, as with a photo. But there is one moving element within the frame. It’s a photo that moves.
Usually, the moving element will be something small. If there is too much movement in the frame, it will look like a video. The cinemagraph will lose its mystique.
To create an example, if you have a breakfast table scene with someone pouring coffee into a cup. You could have the pouring coffee in motion. And the rest of the scene could be still.
You may be thinking a cinemagraph is a fancy word for a GIF. But that’s not the case. A GIF is a low-quality animation that we often see on memes. They are similar, but a cinemagraph uses high-quality images and video.
Cinemagraphs are made by combining a short video with one still frame. They’re then combined in post-production using Adobe Photoshop or Flixel.
You can check out some excellent examples of cinemagraphs by our collaborating artists, Ashraful Arefin and Anya Anti. They are both photographers that use cinemagraphs to add mystery and magic to their work!

History of Cinemagraphs

To witness the advent of cinemagraphs, we have to travel back to 2011. It was New York Fashion Week, and two visual artists were set on making a statement.
Fashion photographer Jamie Beck and motion graphics artist Kevin Burg came together to create something new. They wanted to tell more of a story with one image. Videos were too high-maintenance and less versatile. It was about maximising the potential of one image.
Beck and Burg used their skills to combine a still image with elements of movement. They brought their fashion photography to life. And the first cinemagraph was born.
Their cinemagraphs always start with a strong image. The image has to hold up as a strong photo in its own right. The introduction of movement brings it to life and enables them to tell more of a story.
Since 2011, cinemagraphs have continued to wow and entice viewers. And they’ve been a great way for photographers to enhance their portfolios.
Photoshop is the most common tool for making cinemagraphs. But now, you can get cinemagraph apps for your smartphone. For example, you have Cinemagraph Pro for iOs. And Zoetropic for Android. Other apps are available, but these two are great to get started with.

What Are Cinemagraphs Used For?

Beck and Burg used their cinemagraphs to bring their fashion photography to life. Fashion is an excellent place to start. Using the natural movement of clothes and hair is a great way to bring life into a still photo.
But they’re not limited to fashion. Cinemagraphs can be used in many different styles of photography. For example, you can make time stand still with street photography cinemagraphs.
Artists like Ashraful Arefin and Anya Anti use cinemagraphs to bring a mysterious quality to their fantasy photography. The elements of movement enhance the dream-like atmosphere in their work. They’re similar to something you might see in the Harry Potter movies.
Commercial photography has made a big effort with cinemagraphs. You’ll often see cinemagraphs used for online adverts. They’ve become a powerful marketing tool.
You can even upload cinemagraphs to your social media accounts. They’re a creative way to give your online content a boost.

How to Create Cinemagraphs

There are now apps specifically designed for creating cinemagraphs. There are options for Android and iOS phones, which are fun and easy to use.
But you don’t need any specific cinemagraph software to create one of your own. All you need is Adobe Photoshop and a camera that can record video. If you have those, you can follow our steps on how to create a cinemagraph with Photoshop.

Select Your Moving Subject

You need to think about how much movement you want in your picture. There needs to be a minor and repeated movement. Remember, you’re not making a video. You are only adding movement to a still photograph.
The animation has to be a perfect loop. The start and endpoints of the movement have to be the same. As with the example below, the runner enters the frame from one edge and exits on the opposite. The runner is not present at the beginning and end of the cycle.

Use a Tripod to Keep the Scene Steady

You need to keep the camera completely still when shooting the video footage. Any movement of the camera will destroy the illusion of a good cinemagraph.
The best way to keep your camera steady is with a tripod. Resting the camera on a flat surface could work if you don’t have one. But there is still a risk of jolting or shake.
You can see our cinemagraph below. As you can see, the beach scene looks like a still photograph. But the runner moves from one side of the frame to the other.
Get your camera ready, and we’ll take you through, step-by-step, how to make your own cinemagraph in Photoshop.

Step 1: Open the Video File in Photoshop

Once you have filmed your video, open the file in Photoshop. You can either drag the file into the program or go to File > Open. The video toolbar will open, and your screen will look like the shot below.

Step 2: Set the Start and End Points of Your Video

You need to change the start and endpoint of your video. Move the red line in the video toolbar to where you want your start and endpoints to be. By doing this, you are creating your loop.
Once you know where they are, drag the left and right sides to the red line. This will trim your video file.
Looking at the screenshots above and below, you can see we have moved the red line from its original starting point.

Step 3: Create a New Layer

You now need to create a new layer above the Video Group folder.

Step 4: Paint Over the Parts Where Your Subject Will Be

On your new layer, select a visible color and set your opacity to 100%. Then paint over any parts of your image that you’d like to see moving in your final product. You can see in the image below how we’ve painted over the path of our subject.
You don’t have to be too precious about this step. The paint won’t appear in your final cinemagraph.

Step 5: Set the Still Parts of Your Cinemagraph

Make your paint layer invisible (click on the eye next to the layer), and press Shift + Option + Command to create a new layer. You must make your layer invisible before you create another layer.
Now you can decide how the “still” parts of your cinemagraph will look. Afterwards, press Shift + Option + Command + E to transform your new layer into a stamp visible layer.
This will basically take a screenshot of your photo, so make sure you’re happy with the result before you proceed to the next step.

Step 6: Select the Layer With the Painted Subject Path

Hold the Command button and click on your painted layer (which should still be invisible).
This will select the area that you painted over.

Step 7: Create a Layer Mask

Click on your stamp visible layer (the one with the still image), and create a new layer mask. Now, press play.
If your cinemagraph is doing the opposite of what you want it to do, you’re on the right track! (Don’t worry, this is not a prank.)
To get the results you want, click on that new layer mask (the box next to the stamp visible layer) and press Command + I.
This will reverse the effects and give you the results you want.

Step 8: Save and Export Your Cinemagraph

To avoid losing all of your work, save your progress before you export. Once the cinemagraph is ready, you can convert it into a GIF. Go to Export > Save for Web. Make sure you select GIF from the drop-down box that’s right under Preset.
If you don’t want your GIF to stop, select Forever next to Looping Option. You can also resize your GIF to make it easier to upload online.
Depending on your video file size, this process might take up a lot of time, so don’t be alarmed if it looks like Photoshop is about to crash. If you’ve saved your progress, this step won’t be that stressful.

And here is the finished result! Once you get used to the process, it will take you a maximum of 10 minutes to create stunning cinemagraphs.

Conclusion

Cinemagraphs are attention-grabbers. They’re still photographs that move. They’re not videos, and they’re not GIFs. They are something unique and special. They bring wonder and intrigue into your imagery. It’s as if they’re made by magic.
But cinemagraphs are more simple than you think. Since their inception in 2011, they have become easy and accessible to create.
They’re used for fashion and commercial photography. But you can make some for fun too. Whether for an advertising campaign or your social media, cinemagraphs are a great way to liven up your images.
Do you want to bolster your editing skills by mastering Lightroom? Then check out our Effortless Editing with Lightroom eBook.

What are the 7 Elements of Art?

To compose a perfect photo, you need to understand the basics of fine art theory. Understanding the seven elements of art is a great first step.
The seven elements of art are:

• Color
• Texture
• Line
• Shape or form
• Value
• Pattern
• Space

These elements work together with the principles of art and design. Those principles include repetition, contrast, balance, unity, and emphasis.
A good composition uses these elements for the photo to be aesthetically pleasing and well-balanced.

1. How to Use Color in Photography

When it comes to art, color is an important element. The colors in each frame should contribute to the entire composition or enhance a particular aspect.
Use a color wheel to get started. Begin by focusing on these color schemes;

• Monochromatic – Using different shades of the same hue, often with dark and light versions.
• Analogous Colors: Using three or more colors next to each other on the color wheel.
• Triad Colors: Colors that are evenly spaced around the color wheel. These three colors will provide a sense of harmony in your photo.
• Complementary Colors: Any two colors that sit opposite each other on the color wheel. Using these can create tension and high contrast in your photos.
• Contrasting Colors: Colors that are directly opposite on the color wheel.

2. How to Use Texture in Photography

The world is full of textures. Using texture in photography is an excellent way to add depth and interest.  Texture also can add contrast and drama to otherwise flat images.
Practice taking photos where the subject itself is texture. Focus on bumps or ridges on a surface with your camera’s macro function. Try taking photos of wood grain, bricks, or concrete block walls. You can also create textures using paint or other materials on surfaces like canvas boards.
You can further intensify the texture in your photos during editing.

3. How to Use Line in Photography

The boundaries of a shape mostly create line in photography. Using lines to create a path to explore the essential elements of your image are called leading lines.
Leading lines will naturally draw the viewer’s eye to a particular spot. They also create depth and space in photos that would otherwise appear flat.
Types of leading lines include straight, diagonal, converging, and vanishing points.
Architecture is a great genre to explore using lines in your images.

4. How to Use Shape in Photography

A shape in photography is an outline of an image. This element is closely related to lines.
We usually define shapes in photography as geometric or organic. Geometric shapes typically have straight lines and sharp angles, such as triangles and squares. Organic shapes are more natural and often rounded more free-form with rounded curves.
Shape can be used to create a sense of depth or to impact the balance of your composition. Shapes can be the focal point of an image or used to draw the viewer’s eye to another subject matter.
Use easily recognisable shapes to draw the viewer’s attention.

5. How to Use Value in Photography

In photography terms, value means how light or dark the colors are. A photo with high contrast will have a strong sense of value. One that has an even spread may look flat or less interesting.
A high contrast image might portray a sense of drama or intrigue, while even values may be more appropriate for minimalist or calm images.
Value is essential to black and white photographers as it is the only way to discern between different shades and tones.
When you are photographing, be sure to use natural lighting to get those rich shadows and highlights.

6. How to Use Pattern in Photography

The human eye naturally seeks out patterns. Pattern and repetition create relationships between different objects. You can use patterns to help build depth or state movement.
Common patterns to photograph include:

• Repeating objects in the foreground and background
• Repetitions of natural patterns like waves or ripples

Patterns are also a great way to highlight details within your photo, such as an object or person otherwise lost amongst other elements.

7. How to Use Space in Photography

Think of space as the areas around your subject usually empty. These spaces are often a vast expanse like the sky or water.
In photography terms, this is called negative space. In contrast, positive space is the subject itself.
To create a balance, make sure that you leave enough negative space when framing your photo. We use negative space to contrast other elements. It can create visual interest by adding different shapes and textures into an otherwise empty frame.
Practice using the rule of thirds grid to add more or less space to a photograph strategically.

Conclusion

When you start thinking about your photography through the seven elements of art, it will be much easier to create beautiful images.
You do not need to be an expert in art theory. Keep an eye out for the signs you will see in your own photos. Use these tips for making a creative and cohesive photograph today.
Do you want to compose stunning images, even in ordinary situations? Our Intuitive Composition course allows you to master it in no time at all.

Go ahead and try taking pictures of steam coming from your coffee. Did you capture anything at all? If not, don’t worry. We’ll show you a few tricks to capture smoke photography.

Aromatic Ambiance

Egyptian Musk Incense Sticks

Looking for inspiration for your smoke photography? Try burning a type of incense that disperses a beautiful, soothing scent with a twist. Hand-rolled in India, this incense comes in a box containing six tubes with around 20 sticks each.

Smoke Photography: How to Take Great Photos

People use smoke for various types of photography, from portraiture to still-life.

Depending on what you’d like to achieve, there are a variety of ways to capture smoke.

In this tutorial, we’ll start with simple methods you can use for food photography. But we’ll also show you advanced techniques that you can apply to your conceptual projects.

Most of the methods we’ll be discussing are so simple; you can even use your iPhone to do them.

(We also have amazing smoke photography tips in our Creative Photography Cookbook! Check it out today!)

1. Observe Different Types of Smoke to Recreate Them

The steam from your hot drink looks distinct from the smoke that an extinguished candle produces. Now, why is this information necessary in smoke photography?

Sometimes, you need to “cheat” to produce smoke for photography. So it only makes sense that you know how to recreate smoke effects for anything from hot foods to burning candles.

You’ll see that candles often create wispy columns of smoke. Meanwhile, extremely hot foods and drinks often generate thicker billows.

At the same time, you should also consider the subtleties of creating photography smoke. For instance, a freshly poured coffee may create thick billows. Meanwhile, a cup that has been sitting on the table for a while may produce thin trails.

When you’re familiar with how something produces smoke, you’ll know which technique to use to create realistic effects.

2. Pick a Darker Background to Add Contrast

One of the reasons why smoke isn’t showing up in your pictures is because of your background.

Since smoke is white, it won’t be as visible if what’s behind it is also a light color. So if possible, look for a dark background that provides the proper contrast you need.

The best background for smoke photography is black. But you don’t have to stick with that color all the time. You can also choose grey and other shades that make the smoke more visible.

And what if you only have a white wall as your background? Then try to block out some of the light hitting the wall. Doing so makes the surface look grey and thus would make the smoke visible in your photos.

3. Add Light to Emphasise the Smoke

When you shine a light on the smoke, you reveal its details.

But of course, it’s not just a matter of flooding your scene with light. You need a concentrated beam that focuses only on the smoke, and nothing else. That way, you can keep your background dark and retain the contrast you need.

So how do you focus light?

If you’re using natural light, it can be tricky. You may have to go around your house and look for beams of light entering the room.

But if you want consistency, you can try using off-camera flash, instead. To avoid illuminating the wall, you can place your flashgun behind the subject, but at an angle, so it’s not in your frame.

You may need to do some test shots to make sure the light is hitting the smoke at all. Once you find the correct position, you’ll instantly see how effective it is for smoke photography.

4. Burn an Incense Stick to Add Subtle Swirls

When you see smokey pictures of hot coffee, you may think it’s real. But there’s a good chance that it was faked using an incense stick.

Now, why not just take photos of hot coffee and capture real smoke?

The truth is that commercial photography takes hours to do. After just a few minutes, that hot cup of coffee will stop producing smoke.

If you’re all about authenticity, you can always reheat the coffee when photographing smoke.

But if you’re wiser, you can use an incense stick, instead. Why? Because they create thin trails of smoke that resemble the steam coming out of your cup of joe.

To use an incense stick for smoke photography, all you have to do is light one and place it behind the drink.

Feel free to cut the wooden handle, so the tip of the incense stick isn’t visible in your frame.

You can also use silly-putty to prop up the sticks safely above the surface. That way, you can make sure you don’t accidentally cause a fire.

5. Adjust Your Shutter Speed to Alter the Smoke

You can use any shutter speed setting when doing smoke photography. But the value you select determines its appearance.

If you use fast shutter speed, you’ll end up with crisp trails. Any setting from 1/30th to 1/8000 helps you retain the detail of the smoke.

But as you go slower than 1/30th, you’ll start to notice the details disappear.

When you keep the shutter open for a few seconds, you’ll end up with wispy effects no matter what type of object you’re photographing.

In typical situations, losing the details when photographing smoke is not ideal. But if you want to create dreamy pictures, then keeping your shutter open for longer will do the trick.

Slow shutter speed also tends to increase the volume of the smoke. Why? Because it records every movement while the shutter stays open and blurs it.

So if your trail looks too thin, then blow on it while the shutter is open. That way, it spreads and ends up looking wider in your photo.

6. Use a Spoon to Create Patterns

The best smoke photography involves beautiful patterns that capture attention.

But the truth is that most of the time, you will encounter thin smoke that goes straight up. So what do you do when this happens to you? The simplest solution is to use a spoon.

All you have to do is place the spoon on top of the smoke. Doing so disrupts the straight column and creates patterns. Feel free to experiment with how you do it.

You can remove the spoon every few seconds to create a regular sequence. But you can also keep it on top to create turbulent mushroom clouds.

Of course, you’re free to use other objects too. We just chose a spoon because it doesn’t burn, and it’s readily available.

7. Soak Tea Bags in Water to Create Wispy Smoke

When it comes to doing food photography, incense sticks will not be enough to create realistic smoke. We don’t recommend you use them at all for hot foods. Why? Because the smoke they produce is too thin and fragile.

Hot food usually creates voluminous smoke, especially when it just came straight from the stove or oven. To create a similar effect, you can soak tea bags in hot water.

Since the teabag retains water, it will keep smoking for several minutes. Once it stops producing smoke, you can always place it hot water once more and start the process over again.

Placing tea bags in hot every few minutes may seem tedious. But it’s a whole lot better than putting the food back in the oven and wait for a longer time.

Plus, tea bags are so small that you can place them just about anywhere. You can pour a whole bunch of them into a soufflé cup and set them behind a plate of food.

You can also place them between foods on your plate and not worry about them showing in your frame because they’re so small.

8. Light Smoke Bombs to Add Color to Your Photos

Smoke photography isn’t just about foods, drinks, and candles.

There are a lot of other creative ways to use smoke, and one of them is using smoke bombs. They’re not just colorful, but they add some action to what would otherwise be boring pictures.

You can use smoke bomb photography from capturing portraits to documenting action sports.

For portraits, most photographers often have their subjects hold the bomb while posing. But it’s also quite common for them to place several smoke bombs around the person and photograph them as smoke starts to fill the frame.

As for action sports, a lot of photographers have their subjects hold the smoke bomb as they run or jump. Doing so allows them to emphasise the graceful movements of the athletes.

Of course, you don’t have to limit yourself to portraiture and sports photography.

Feel free to experiment with smoke bombs with other genres, whether it be landscape or conceptual photography. They may be what you need to give your photos that extra oomph.

Smoke bombs are a fire hazard, so make sure you stay safe while using them for your photography.

9. Experiment With a Smoke Machine to Add Drama

In most cases, smoke machines are overkill when it comes to doing smoke photography. They produce too much haze that can quickly engulf your scene.

But there are times when using incense sticks isn’t enough.

There are situations when smoke machines are necessary to create specific effects for your smoke photography. For instance, it’s ideal for replicating thick smoke that you often see coming from big fires. You can also use it to create mysterious, and even spooky moods.

I use a smoke machine to create a fake “ball of fire” without having to use a flame thrower. Using flash gels, I can develop photos such as the one you see below.

To use this technique, you’ll need two flashes, gels, and of course, a smoke machine. You’ll also need a remote to trigger your strobes wirelessly.

As you can see, there are quite a few requirements that most beginner photographers may not have. But if you have these pieces of equipment lying around, then this technique is worth trying.

First, place an orange gel on one flash and a darker orange gel on the other. If you don’t know what gels are, you can think of them as filters that change the color of the light.

Next, place the one flash behind the subject on the left side and the other one on the right side.

Once they’re in position, press the button of the smoke machine and take a picture once a white ball forms behind the object.

You may have to try several times until you find the best shot. But if you do it correctly, you should end up with a realistic fireball.

10. Use Lightroom to Create Colorful Smoke

When you google the term “smoke photography,” you’ll most likely end up with colorful photos of smoke. And if you’re wondering how to create your own, we’ll show you how.

There are a variety of methods you can try to achieve this effect. But to make it simple, we’ll teach you how to do it in Lightroom using the brush tool.

First, you’ll need to take photos of trails from incense sticks in front of a dark background.

Once you have several pictures, load them into Lightroom. Increase your contrast, shadow, and black to make sure the smoke pops from the background.

After you finish your basic adjustments, click on your brush tool. Now go down to Color and pick the color you want using the dropper.

At this point, all you have to do is “paint” the smoke with the color you pick. If you want another color, hit the New button just below the brush tool and choose another hue.

When you’re satisfied with the result, save your image, and that’s it!

Conclusion

Taking pictures of smoke is much more complicated than you think. It requires a lot of trial and error.

Using these techniques will help you solve the issues you may encounter. Keep them in mind; you’ll never know when you’re going to need them!

It is an interesting method that can help you create unique images. And it doesn’t require a lot of equipment!

Read on to find out how it works.

High-Resolution Scanning

Epson Perfection V600 Color Scanner

Discover the power of scanography with a high-performance scanner that delivers outstanding quality scans from photos, film, slides, and 3D objects. Achieve precision and vivid reproductions up to 17″ x 22″.

What Do You Need for Scanography?

To make a scanner photograph, you arrange objects on the scanner’s glass flatbed with the lid propped open or removed. You are using the scanner as your camera to capture whatever you place on the glass.

So what do you need for a scanography project?

• a flatbed scanner;
• a computer;
• objects to scan (the flatter, the better);
• a cloth and glass cleaner.

Traditional vs Scanning Photography

Scanography has some unique attributes and advantages when compared to shooting with a camera.

Objects are sitting on a transparent glass surface so they can seem to float, suspended in space. The image below looks like an exploding flower captured by high-speed flash. It is the result of careful placement of each tulip petal onto the flatbed glass. Gravity seems defied, and it’s resulting in a surrealistic effect.

Depth of field is limited to less than half an inch from the glass surface. Think of the glass as your macro focus point. As you get farther from the flatbed glass, the focus gets softer.

Use this to your advantage. Place the subject you want to be the sharpest right on the glass flatbed.

This can be a challenge with complex 3D objects. One solution I have used with flowers is to remove petals to reveal the interior parts. This allows the inside of the flower to be in contact with the glass. This way, it is visible and sharper.

Should You Use CCD or CIS Scanner for Scanography?

There are two types of scanners popular for scanner photography. CCD (charged coupled device) and CIS (Contact Image Sensor).

The type of scanner used, CCD or CIS has a big effect on sharpness. Understanding that sharpness is not the only thing that creates the illusion of depth in a photograph is also important. Tonal differences, lighting, leading lines, the arrangement of space can work along with the amazing resolution to give scanner photographs more depth.

Here are a few practical things to know about each type.

A CCD scanner will always be more expensive. Most scanners over $400 are often CCDs. And the most inexpensive scanners are CIS. A CCD scanner has about ten times more depth of field than a CIS. This means that about 10mm versus 1mm above the glass will be sharp.

When using CCD, the subject illumination will be more even and brighter as you get farther from the glass. If using CIS, it falls off rapidly.

Sharpness is much better with CCD. So is the ability to capture larger tonal and color ranges.

Many CIS scanners can be used upside down or on their sides. CCDs often need adaptations to work in different orientations.

It would seem that CCD is the clear winner, especially if you are after maximum detail and sharpness. But consider we are talking about technical details here that may not matter to some people. And don’t forget, it is the photographer that creates the photo NOT the camera (or scanner in this case).

So remember, equipment quality is important. But it is not something to stop one from producing a great scanner photograph. Use any scanner you have on hand.

Any software will do the job so you can start using the software that came with your scanner. If you want something better, look into Silverfast or Vuescan.

At the moment, I use Epson Perfection (CCD) scanners, three different ones, and Vuescan software.

Tip: Check for dust when scanning.  Everything will be enlarged along with your subject matter, including dust specks. Begin by thoroughly cleaning your scanner glass. Otherwise, you will become very good friends with Photoshop’s Stamp and Healing Brush tools.

How to Understand Resolution in Scanography

Scanography has one more advantage compared to traditional photography: the high resolution. Twenty years ago, digital SLRs had a very limited resolution.

When I saw what a scanner could do, I was hooked. Think of a scanner as an 8.5×11 inch sensor. Even today’s DSLR’s cannot compete.

It’s all in the numbers! File sizes can be upwards of 500 MB depending on the selected scanner DPI.

For example, a 5×7 inch area scanned at 2400 DPI in16 bits makes an 1150 MB file (over 1 GB)! When printed at 300 DPI, the subject can be enlarged eight times. The higher the scanning DPI, the more pixels you have to work with. And the greater your enlargement can be.

Often scanner specs are quoted as two numbers like 3200/6400. The lower of these two is the actual optical resolution of the photography scanner. Using a DPI setting above this only results in the interpolation of information.

So best not to use a DPI setting above the true optical resolution.

How to Use Light in Scanner Photography

The light coming from the scanner bar has a unique quality. It’s different than lighting something with a single burst of flash. Or with natural light coming from the sun on a clear sky day.

It’s more akin to that softer light you experience on an overcast day from many different angles.  Your subject is being lit by a moving bar of light. And the light seems to wrap itself around objects as it passes by.

The farther these objects are from the scanner glass, the darker they will be. White objects placed right on the glass can turn out too light and lack details. Things farthest away from the glass will be quite dark.  It’s possible to recover some of the blown-out highlight detail after scanning. But best to capture maximum highlight detail in the original scan.

You can control this through the scanner software. A scan that is too dark will still contain most of the dynamic range of your subject that you can recover later. One that is too light will lack adequate highlight detail.

Scanned objects also may look too flat, lacking in contrast.  To enhance depth, dimension, texture and color, you can balance additional lights with the wraparound soft scanner lighting. I use various light sources, often diffused/filtered through Mylar or color gels.

Any continuous light source will work, even flashlights. Tungsten will tend to give a warmer reddish cast, while LED will give a cooler color.

If your scanner has a built-in transparency adapter to scan slides, you can even use that as your primary light source. This will result in more transparent x-ray quality or backlighting effect.

How to Choose Backgrounds for Your Scanography

Unless you are planning to scan something very thin, you will need to prop the scanner lid out of the way. Or you have to remove it to accommodate your 3D subject matter.  Some non-removable lids adjust for the thickness of a book. But the weight of them pressing on fragile objects like flowers would be an issue.

For a solid black background, try working in a darker room. Cover the objects with a black cloth or build a black box around the edge and top of your scanner. Black adds contrast and drama. You see this background used often with flowers. A different look can be achieved by suspending other background materials above your objects.

For a softer look, handmade paper or natural materials work well as backgrounds. Other backgrounds I’ve used include tiles and slate, large leaves and other flowers, photographs, aluminum, large pieces of bark, translucent mylar, glass mirrors and reflective objects.

Also, consider the foreground. You could place a translucent material like lace or thin rice paper directly on the glass and your subject on top.  Scanning through can add interesting textures and depth.

To achieve a painterly or underwater effect I have experimented with scanning through the textured glass as in the example “Rose Bouquet”.

The background needs to be a few inches bigger than the flatbed glass. Especially if it is suspended several inches above the glass.

How to Scan 3D Objects For Unique Results

My working method is to use the scanner software’s ‘Preview’ option at lower resolution (300 DPI) to check placement. I rearrange the subjects until the image on the computer screen matches the one I’ve envisioned. Or it looks like it is worth capturing.

I use tweezers and chopsticks and cotton swabs to move things gently and carefully. So they don’t smear or scratch the glass. Some folks have suggested caulking the edges of the glass with clear silicone to keep dust and pollen out of the inside.

This is a good idea if you are putting water on the scanner for sure. Clear tape is easier to remove, but you lose a bit of image area.

I have taken scanners apart to clean the inside glass surface. This is necessary every few years. All these things void any warranty that might apply, but if you are careful, it’s worth the risk.

Buying a used scanner might be a good place to start. There plenty out there for less than $100. If you decide you like scanner photography, you can invest in a more expensive device.

When the preview scan looks good, it’s time for high-resolution scanning! Be sure to view all of your preview and final scans at 100% magnification to check your scanner artwork.

Look for focus, is there dust that could be cleaned off without moving your subject matter?

Now step back from your computer screen and view the entire image onscreen from 5 feet away.

Does the image have a good flow to it? Are there any distracting elements? Does the composition work? Is there a stronger way to arrange the elements for more impact?

Evaluate your preview composition while you are doing a high-resolution scan. Then you may want to spend a little more time reworking things for an even better result. If not, you still have your original high-resolution scan to go back to.

A simple way to determine the resolution to use for scanning is knowing that 300 DPI is a standard printing resolution. So, if you are scanning an 8×10 inch area on your flatbed with the resolution set to 300 DPI, you will end up with enough resolution to make an 8×10 inch print.

I use a 44 inch wide HP printer and like to print big. That’s why I’m often using 1200 DPI and higher as my final scan resolution.

TIP: Scan at a higher resolution than you require for printing. Downsizing will increase quality, and the day will come when you want to make a bigger print or to enlarge a section of your initial scan.

How to Scan Flower Photography

Flowers and plants are popular subjects for scanography. Everyone appreciates their beauty, color and interesting details. Cut flowers would be the logical choice, but I have scanned a potted plant or two.

You must handle flowers with care. They are very fragile, and the petals will crease easily. Try to prop them up by the stems. This way, the foreground petals are not flattening out when they are pressing into the scanner surface.

Store the flowers in a cool place before scanning. Keep the cut ends wet while working with them.  A florist’s water pick can keep the flower from wilting quickly.

If keeping flowers for several days, give them flower food to extend their life. Keep the water in their vase fresh and cool.

Perhaps starting with flowers that are flatter or more sturdy would be a good place to begin. Dahlias, pansies, miniature sunflowers are easy to handle (compared to orchids).

Have everything you might need on hand. Scissors, tape, props, lighting, background material etc. Have the scanner ready to go before you start placing the flowers.

Have a starting composition in your mind. You can even draw a sketch before starting the scanner photography.

A successful image has both a mysterious quality and the ability to ignite people’s imagination. When setting up the flowers and other objects, I pay close attention to the placement that will imply gesture, action or emotion.

Structural parts of flowers and plants often mirror human or animal physiology. Use this for your advantage.

How to Use Live Insects for Your Scanography

I use live critters in my scanography work for effects that break into new photographic territory. When living insects move during scanning, they create colorful digital tracks.

If you keep your live insects in the fridge for a few minutes before scanning, it slows them down. Try different DPI settings to capture their movements. A small brush works well for gentle wrangling.

My best scanography image involves over 300 spiderlings that bound a flower to the scanners glass with their dense webbing. I’ve also worked with moths, caterpillars, silkworms, ants and a newt. Be careful not to harm these little critters or keep them posing for too long.

How to Use Ice in Scanography

I have a continuing series called ‘On Ice’. This captures flowers and other organic subjects frozen into a block of ice or cubes. You can scan these as they are melting for some very interesting effects.

DO NOT put ice directly onto a scanner. Or you will be disassembling your scanner to clean condensation from the interior of the glass.

What you can do is turning your flatbed scanner upside down. I have adapted one of my Epson scanners to work upside down, but it comes with its own challenges. I hold it by a large camera stand and use it to scan ice.

The potential for icy textures is appealing. While the ice is melting, its texture is changing. For a more transparent look, you should light the ice from below.

The composition is tricky when scanning ice. The flowers can move somewhat as they freeze, and you have to hurry because it’s melting.

More Creative Scanography Ideas

You don’t need to limit your subjects to natural ones either. As part of a fundraising exhibit, I was asked to create a scanography piece using 100 bicycle parts.

“Rock Shox Rider” was the result of a day of placing and moving metal bike parts on the scanner. I managed to get colorful streaks in the background. It was due to waving reflective bike parts in the background during scanning.

The circular sun shape is a bike part I spun while the scanner passed under it. I was very excited about the result. It ended up being the most high-resolution photo of my career.

How to Edit Your Scanography

After the scan is complete, I use Photoshop’s Curves to control contrast. I’m always looking for a pleasing range of tones with good detail in Highlights and Shadows. I fine-tune color in Photoshop with Hue/Saturation tool or locally with the Sponge tool.

I often use the Dodge/Burn tools to compensate for imbalances. Successful dodging and burning go a long way to create more depth in the image. The dodge and burn tools are important to understand. Play with the Range Settings (H/L Midtone Shadow) for more control.

If the color is affected in an unwanted way, duplicate the background layer. Do your dodging and burning on this layer Then set the layer blend mode to Luminosity.

The photos below show the original scan on the left, and reworked using Photoshop. I ended up with a tonally balanced result thanks to Dodge and Burn tools.

Conclusion

Photo scanography has allowed me to observe and record nature in a unique way and opened up new creative opportunities.

Perhaps there is an imaging tool on your desk masquerading as a document scanner that calls to your imagination?

Use the above tips to try it out!

Eager to learn more about new and creative ways to shoot still life? Why not check out our ebook The Creative Photography Cookbook next!