Sky Photography – ExpertPhotography

What is Color Banding in Photography? (And How to Fix It)

Jenn Mishra — Thu, 28 Apr 2022 08:55:20 +0000

Color banding in photos is distracting discolorations—colors that should gradually move from one shade to the next instead jump to the next color. You see distinct bands or rows of color instead of a gradual transition. The bands may be roughly straight or curve around objects.
You are more likely to see banding in areas of your image where one hue dominates, like in a cloudless blue sky. Instead of moving seamlessly from one shade of blue to the next, you see distinct lighter and darker blues sections. Or you may see sections of color in areas with a high dynamic range, like when shooting into the sun. The exposure and colors jump, and you may see a yellow, orange, or red halo.
You might not notice color banding at first. You may only see it after editing or exporting the file as a JPEG. So let’s explore what causes colors to separate. Once you understand the cause, we will show you how to avoid banding and fix it in post-processing.

What is Color Banding?

We see banding as a problem with color. But it is really a problem with tones moving from light to dark. We only see it when the same color transitions from light to dark. When you purposefully encourage color banding in your photo, it is called posterization. It is a style popular when creating posters, thus the name.

Photo posterized in Photoshop using a Posterize adjustment layer and the Style Transfer neural filter.

What Causes Banding in a Clear Blue Sky?

Often banding appears in a clear blue sky. But it may be hard to pin down. You might see it immediately after taking the photo or not until you have uploaded the picture to social media. One image may have banding, but the next one may not.
There is one underlying cause of color banding. There is not enough tonal range in the photo to create a gradual transition. Some of the reasons for banding can get a bit technical. But let’s try to keep the explanations as simple as possible.

Color banding often occurs in a cloudless blue sky. © Jenn Mishra

Color Banding in a Compressed File

You are more likely to see banding in a compressed file. The most common type of compressed file is a JPEG. You usually compress your files to JPEGs before posting them to social media. But many cameras let you choose different compression levels when taking a photo. These settings range from compressed JPEG to uncompressed RAW files.
When compressing a file, digital information is removed. It is usually information the camera or photo editing program thinks you do not need. Color separation occurs when too much tonal information is removed. Blank blue skies seem like they are all one color. But there are often slight color variations. The technology may get over-aggressive and remove some of the blue information, thinking it is unnecessary.
Compare these two images compressed as JPEG files. The one on the right was compressed with 100% quality, the other only 10%.

Color Banding During Photo Editing

Sometimes you create banding problems during photo editing when you push color settings to an extreme. For instance, you may want to bring out the color of the sky or correct for exposure. Banding can happen if you add too much saturation, vibrance, or dehaze. It can also occur if you adjust single colors in the HSL/Color panel.
When banding occurs during photo editing, you have pushed the tonal range too far. There is not enough information in the file. There are a few photo-editing tricks to help with this. But in general, you may not be able to push the photo edits as far as you want to.

Banding starts to show when the blue saturation is pushed too far. © Jenn Mishra

How to Avoid Color Banding

Ideally, you want to avoid tones separating in the first place. There are a couple of things you can do when taking photos to eliminate or reduce the occurrence of banding.

Shoot and Edit Uncompressed Files

There is a reason why most professional photographers shoot photos in an uncompressed RAW format. Uncompressed RAW files are larger than JPEG or compressed RAW files. That is because RAW files keep all the digital information your camera is capable of capturing. You lose data when the camera compresses the RAW file or converts it to JPEG.
If you are having problems with banding, check your camera settings. Most mid-to-high-end cameras let you choose the file format. If you are shooting JPEG or compressed RAW, switch to uncompressed RAW. That may be all it takes to fix the problem. Even iPhones have a RAW file option.
Then import the highest quality files possible into a photo editing program. And do most of your edits on a RAW file. If you have to export your photo for further editing, use an uncompressed format like TIFF or DNG in 16-bit mode. Lightroom recommends using ProPhoto RGB color space. You can see these settings in the Lightroom Classic > Preference menu under the External Editing tab.

The file quality and compression menu in a Sony camera.

Create Well-Exposed Images

Color banding often appears when you push photo edits too far. As much as possible, create a well-exposed image. If your camera has “blinkies” or zebra stripes, turn them on. These provide exposure warnings.
Use your histogram to make sure your picture is not over or underexposed. If you are new to histograms, it is a graph that maps the light in your photo. You want most of the peaks to fall in the middle or slightly to the right.
Adjust your exposure if the peaks are pushed to the far right or left or go off the top of the chart. You may have to take a series of images at different exposures and combine them later. This is bracketing, and it increases tonal values in your photo.

How to Fix Color Banding

It is best to avoid banding in the first place. But if you are working with a photo where tones abruptly change when they should be gradual, here are a few things you can try to limit the distraction.

Check Your Monitor

Before changing your photo, ensure that the banding is in the image and not just on your display. Zoom in to the affected area and look closely. Also, try opening the photo in another program like Photoshop. If the banding changes shape or disappears, it is not in your image. If you suspect a problem with your monitor, use a color banding test like this one from Eizo.

Increase File Information

You cannot directly add information to a file if you did not capture it in the first place. But there are a couple of things you can try in Photoshop that maximizes the information available when you edit.
First, check the bit mode of your file. In Photoshop, go to the Image drop-down menu and select Image > Mode. If your file is in the 8 Bits/Channel, change it to a 16-bit file.
Files in 8-bit use fewer colors and are smaller. The maximum number of colors available is 256 per color channel. It is usually fine for viewing on computer screens with a limited range of colors.
A 16-bit file has over 65,000 color combinations available. The colors in your photo will not change. But 16-bits gives you more information to work with. You may be able to push your post-processing settings a little further without the colors separating.

While you are in the Mode menu, check that you are in the RGB color space. The most common setting for digital photography is sRGB because it covers colors used on most monitors. But if you are having problems with banding, you can try AdobeRGB. It does not necessarily add colors. But it covers a slightly different range of colors.
To switch color space, go to the Edit drop-down menu. Select Edit > Color Settings (Shift+Ctrl or Command+K). Under working space, change sRGB to Adobe RGB.

Make Subtle Edits

Banding often occurs when you push photo edits to an extreme. Try making more subtle edits rather than moving sliders to one extreme or the other. There are often different ways to edit a photo. For instance, if you want a more saturated color, you can use saturation and vibrance. But you can also add a little contrast, clarity, and dehaze. Also, use the HSL/Color panel in Lightroom to target a specific color.

Make subtle edits in Lightroom’s Basic panel.

Disguise Color Banding

If you have banding in an area of your photo, try to disguise it with blur or noise. First, select the banding area. For instance, you can choose a sky in Lightroom using the Select Sky masking tool.
In Photoshop, you can use the Quick Selection tool or the Color Range tool under the Select drop-down menu. Then copy the selection to a new layer by clicking the “Create a new layer” button at the bottom of the Layer panel. And make this a Smart Object layer (right-click and select “Convert to Smart Object”).

Option #1: Add Blur For a Smooth Transition

In Lightroom, add blur by reducing the Texture and Clarity sliders.
In Photoshop, add blur to the selected layer. Go to the Filter drop-down menu. Select Filter > Blur > Gaussian Blur. Or you can also use Surface blur. Then start moving the blur slider and watch the preview. Stop when the banding begins to disappear. If you need to, add a mask and blur only to the affected area.

Option #2: Add Noise and a Layer Mask

Usually, we are trying to remove unwanted noise from our images. But in this case, a little random noise can help disguise banding. In Lightroom, reduce the Noise slider.
In Photoshop, go to Layer > New > Layer. In the dialog box, change the blending mode to “Overlay.” Check the box “Fill with Overlay-neutral color (50% gray).” Change the name to “Noise Layer.”

Go to the Filter drop-down menu. Select Filter > Noise > Add Noise. Choose the Uniform button and Monochromatic check box.
You do not need to move the Amount slider very much. You want just enough noise to disguise the problem but not so much that the noise becomes noticeable. Less than 5% is probably good. Then add a layer mask and apply the noise only to the area with banding.

Conclusion

Color banding is an abrupt change of color in an area of your photo where the color change should be gradual. Banding happens when you do not have enough information in your file. Or you push the edits to an extreme.
Avoid banding by making a well-exposed photograph and saving it as an uncompressed RAW file. To fix color banding, make subtle edits and limit how much you compress the photo when exporting as a JPEG. If banding is harsh and distracting, try disguising it by adding a blur and some noise to the area.
After you’ve mastered color banding, try our Shooting Skies e-book to capture frame-worthy photos!

The Best Sky Replacement Apps in 2024 (Updated)

Jenn Mishra — Thu, 30 Sep 2021 18:06:18 +0000

There’s no doubt that a good sky can add to the beauty of a photograph. But what if you’re shooting in an area that doesn’t have very nice skies? Or what if you want to create a specific mood or feeling in your photo? In those cases, you might need to use a sky replacement app.

Luminar Neo is the best sky replacement software. It has a specific tool for replacing skies in images. Thanks to AI technology, this once-complicated task is quick and easy. It’s a two-click operation. And the software is packed with other AI tools for painless photo editing.

Innovative AI Technology

Skylum Luminar Neo

Neo uses state-of-the-art AI technology to give you superfast and easy-to-use editing tools like their advanced Sky Replacement feature. It’s also packed with other AI tools for complex editing made simple.

Testing Sky Replacement Apps

Our test image has a washed-out sky and fine detail in the background trees. The tools that couldn’t handle these issues didn’t make the cut.

Also, while it’s nice to have sky images available in the program, these are made by other photographers. But we prefer to use our own replacement skies. So we’ll let you know if this is possible in the software, using a small replacement sky image from an iPhone.

Lastly, we looked at how each tool managed file-size issues.

We’ve split the tools into software and apps. If you post-process on a computer, the software tools are for you. If you primarily photograph and edit on your mobile devices, skip to the second section for the apps.

Original icy shipwreck photo used to test sky replacement software

Best Sky Replacement Software

Now we’ll look at the best sky replacement software options in more detail.

1. Skylum Luminar Neo

Brand	Brand Luminar
Operating System	Operating System macOS and Windows
Payment Type	Payment Type 12-month subscription / One-time payment
Free Trial Period	Free Trial Period 30-day money-back guarantee
Dedicated Sky Replacement Tool	Dedicated Sky Replacement Tool Yes
Key Features	Key Features AI enhancement and editing tools, powerline removal AI, sky replacement AI, layers, filters

Luminar Neo from Skylum has the best sky replacement tool of any photo editing software. And that’s down to Skylum’s use of artificial intelligence (AI).

With the power of AI, they’ve transformed complex and time-consuming tasks into quick and easy operations. And the sky replacement feature is the best example.

Previously, replacing a sky in an image was hard work. But that’s not the case with Luminar Neo. Changing a sky is as easy as clicking a few buttons. The AI does all the hard work, and it does it in record time. You can literally replace a sky in seconds.

Neo gives you a good selection of skies to choose from. The basic program gives you plenty of sky options. But you can buy additional skies if that’s not enough. Then once you’ve selected the sky you want, simply click apply. That’s it.

There’s no cutting or copying. And there are no complicated layers. The AI bot does all the heavy lifting, giving you the easiest editing experience of your life.

Luminar Neo is also packed with other advanced AI features. There are AI background removal, AI masking, and AI relight tools, just to name a few. You can read our full Luminar Neo review for a more in-depth look at the software.

Pros:

Incredibly quick and easy to use
Plenty of skies are included in the program
No editing experience is required
Natural results
Automatically makes minor adjustments to an image so the sky matches the scene

Cons:

Additional skies have to be purchased

2. Adobe Photoshop

Brand	Brand Adobe
Operating System	Operating System macOS and Windows
Payment Type	Payment Type Monthly subscription
Free Trial Period	Free Trial Period 7-day trial
Dedicated Sky Replacement Tool	Dedicated Sky Replacement Tool Yes
Key Features	Key Features Layer editing tools, wide and varied tool set, text-in-image features, brush tools

With just a couple of clicks, Photoshop will change your sky. If you already use Adobe products, this is the quickest way to get the job done.

The AI Sky Replacement tool does a good job masking around background details. It also blends foreground lighting and color with the new sky image.

The look is customizable. You can easily change the sky temperature, horizon blending, and foreground lighting. Both sky and foreground changes show as editable layers, and you can adjust the mask if necessary.

It masks better than Luminar AI, but it lacks creative options. If you want your sky replacement software fast and without bells and whistles, this is your program.

How to Replace a Sky With Photoshop

Open image in Photoshop
Select Edit > Sky Replacement
Select a sky or click the gear to add your own
Click OK

Pros

Easy to use
Customizable lighting and color adjustments

Cons

Access by subscription

3. Landscape Pro

Brand	Brand Anthropics
Operating System	Operating System macOS and Windows
Payment Type	Payment Type One-time payment
Free Trial Period	Free Trial Period Two-week trial
Dedicated Sky Replacement Tool	Dedicated Sky Replacement Tool Yes
Key Features	Key Features AI-powered selection tools, sophisticated lighting controls , add text, logos, and watermarks to images

Landscape Pro isn’t just for landscape photography. It has a lot of built-in presets that you can adjust with sliders. You can add your own sky image or use one of the presets.

Along with skies, you can adjust lighting, atmosphere, and many other sky elements. You can even move individual clouds around and move the sun to paint on 3D lighting effects.

The precision of Landscape Pro relies on how well you label and mask the elements in your scene. The program helps, but you, not the AI, mask around trees and other objects.

There are a lot of effects, but use them sparingly and at a low opacity. Many are over the top at full power.

How to Replace Sky with Landscape Pro

Open image in Landscape Pro
Label the sky and other objects in the image
Refine the masks
Open the Sliders tab in the Sky panel
Select a sky or click + to add your own

Pros

Many lighting and atmosphere effects
Reflects sky in water

Cons

Manual masking
Unrealistic and over-the-top effects
Can be a bit sluggish

Sky replaced with Landscape Pro. You can see my struggles masking the trees on the left-hand horizon.

4. PhotoDirector 365

Brand	Brand CyberLink
Operating System	Operating System macOS and Windows
Payment Type	Payment Type One-time payment
Free Trial Period	Free Trial Period Limited usage free download
Dedicated Sky Replacement Tool	Dedicated Sky Replacement Tool Yes
Key Features	Key Features Wide AI tool set, layer editing, guided editing for beginners

PhotoDirector 365 has a nice AI sky replacement with additional lighting effects. The process is almost instant. Simply click a sky, and AI instantly finds and replaces it. It’s as fast as having a magic wand.

The AI masking was a bit inconsistent. For some of the skies, the background trees showed halos. But for our target sky, there was no problem at all.

There does not seem to be a way to refine the mask. The sky and foreground color adjustments are basic.

But there are many effects like lens flares, light rays, and even some animation that make this program worth exploring. All effects render instantly.

How to Replace Sky in PhotoDirector 365

Open image in PhotoDirector 365
Select Sky Replacement in the Photo Effects panel
Select a sky or click the + icon above My Templates to import your own

Pros

One-click sky replacement
Many lighting and animation effects
Instant results

Cons

Inconsistent AI masking
Basic color blending

Best Apps with Sky Replacement Feature

We also set out to find the best sky replacement apps for smartphones.

Photo editing apps, which were once simply playgrounds for the casual photographer, now include powerful features like sky replacement.

Not many can compete with desktop photo editing software, but here are a couple of photo editing tools that try.

1. Lightleap

Brand	Brand Lightricks
Operating System	Operating System Android and iOS
Payment Type	Payment Type Free with in-app purchases
Free Trial Period	Free Trial Period None
Dedicated Sky Replacement Tool	Dedicated Sky Replacement Tool Yes
Key Features	Key Features Over sixty available skies, healing tools, remove unwanted elements, targeted editing tools

Lightleap by Lightricks is a subscription app, but there are enough free features to whet your appetite. One of the features is sky replacement.

You cannot use your own sky photos. But there are a handful of free skies and many more if you subscribe to the app.

You simply click a sky background, and the program instantly masks and replaces the sky.

The masks worked well with lighter skies. Darker skies showed a halo around the background trees in the target image.

As the name would imply, there are other light tricks to play with, including lightning effects and shooting stars. However, results are not customizable.

How to Replace Sky with Lightleap

Open image in Lightleap
Select the Sky tool
Choose a sky background

Pros

One-click sky replacement
Many lighting and animation effects
Instant results
Many freebies

Cons

Costly subscription
Inconsistent AI masking
Cannot import skies
Results are not customizable

Download: iOS | Android

2. PICNIC

Brand	Brand ESTsoft Corp.
Operating System	Operating System Android and iOS
Payment Type	Payment Type Free
Free Trial Period	Free Trial Period None
Dedicated Sky Replacement Tool	Dedicated Sky Replacement Tool Yes
Key Features	Key Features Wide variety of skies, import own skies, easy controls, fast editing

All Picnic does is change skies. One click instantly masks the sky and colorizes the foreground to match. The masking works well with light and dark skies.

You cannot use your own skies, and there are not as many choices as Lightleap.

There are only two adjustments, one for the sky background and the other for the foreground.

But the app is free and fast. If all you want is a quick sky replacement, this is a good choice.

How to Replace Sky with Picnic

Open image in Picnic
Select sky background

Pros

Free
Fast
Consistently good masking

Cons

Limited sky selections
Few customizations

Download: iOS | Andrioid

Conclusion—Best Sky Replacement Tool

Replacing a sky in an image used to be a painful process. Even with the best editing software, it was a difficult and time-consuming procedure. But software has changed. And now replacing a sky couldn’t be easier.

Luminar Neo is by far the best sky replacement software. AI technology allows you to change a sky and transform an image in a matter of seconds. You can’t make the processes any quicker or easier. And the Neo program is also packed with other advanced editing tools.

Innovative AI Technology

Skylum Luminar Neo

11 Techniques for Capturing the Best Sunset Photography

Christopher Bryan-Smith — Mon, 13 Sep 2021 15:00:03 +0000

There’s nothing quite like a sunset. The sun slowly disappearing below the horizon is one of the most awe-inspiring sights in the natural world.
But despite their beauty, sunset photography is not as easy as you might think. Their glory doesn’t always translate into stunning sunset photos.
In this article, we’ve gathered our 11 favorite tips to help you capture stunning sunset photographs.

11 Tips for Stunning Sunset Photography

Shooting sunsets is one of the most popular types of landscape photography. It’s hardly surprising. But sunset photography is a discipline all its own.
You need to know what gear to use. And how to use it in the right way. But follow our sunset photography tips, and you’ll become a master of sunset photography.

1. You’ll Need the Right Camera

We know we’re stating the obvious, but different photography genres often require different cameras. And sunset photography is no different.
For sunset photography, you need a camera well suited to landscape photography.
You want to capture every detail, so image resolution is an important consideration when selecting a camera. You can go DSLR or mirrorless, but we recommend a full frame over a crop sensor camera.
Medium format cameras, with their larger sensors, are also excellent for landscape photography. But they are expensive and lack the versatility of smaller format cameras.
One thing to look for in a camera for sunset photos is a high dynamic range. A typical sunset shot will have bright and dark areas. You need to know that the camera can capture the detail in both. A high dynamic range will bring depth to your sunset photos.
A good ISO range is also important. It might look like some cameras have a limited ISO range. But they often have expandable ranges, so check that out before purchasing.

Photo by Ben Griffiths

2. Select the Right Lens for Landscape Photography

When it comes to specific genres of photography, you want to have a lens suited to your work.
For sunset photos, you’ll ideally want a wide-angle lens. They’re excellent for landscapes. And the wide focal length will allow you to capture a broad sunset scene.
You want to include as much as possible whenever you’re shooting an image that includes the horizon. It helps provide a sense of grandeur, a feature of good landscape photography.
You can still capture an excellent landscape image without a wide-angle lens. But you’ll need to set your lens to its widest focal length. Usually, you’ll want to include as much of the scene as possible.
A prime lens is all you need. Zoom or telephoto capabilities aren’t necessary for sunset photography.
Your lens options will be determined by the camera you have. But Nikon, Canon, and Fujifilm all have excellent selections.

Photo by Byron Johson

3. Use Manual Mode to Capture Fleeting Sunsets

Modern cameras have excellent automatic functions. For sunset photography, we recommend you use Manual mode. Like Luke Skywalker, turn off your guidance system and trust your feelings.
Conditions are constantly changing as the sun sinks lower in the sky. You’ll have to adapt and change as quickly as the conditions. There’s a higher risk involved. But the rewards will be greater.
Auto mode will produce consistent results. But they can often be flat and lifeless. So, to get the best sunset photos, you need to master the settings. It could take time, but you won’t be sorry once you’ve nailed it.

Photo by Johannes Plenio

4. Adapt Your Camera Settings

The demands of a sunset scene are pretty unique in photography. You need to have your camera settings adjusted for the purpose at hand.

White Balance

Set your camera up with a daylight white balance preset. The sunlight won’t be as bright as at midday. But if you select a different preset, it won’t pick up the richer color tones of the golden hour.
The auto white balance (AWB) is another attractive feature. But again, we say go manual. Auto mode is fine for most situations. But sticking to the daylight preset will give you a more vibrant sunset image.

Aperture

Any landscape photographer will tell you to go with a narrow aperture. And they’d be right. Something around f/16 or f/22 is ideal.
A narrow aperture setting will give you a wider depth of field. The smaller your aperture, the more of your image will be in focus.
You are free to experiment with a shallow depth of field. But it might give you a flat and featureless sunset image.

ISO and Shutter Speed

Landscape photographers tend to opt for a lower ISO and a slow shutter speed. This approach will give your sunset photos stronger tones and sharper detail.
ISO 100 or 200 is a good place to start. You can venture lower if your camera is able. You’ll need to compensate with a slower shutter speed. Just remember the exposure triangle to get the camera set up correctly.

Photo by Robert Richarz

5. Use a Tripod to Avoid Camera Shake

A tripod is a vital piece of equipment for sunset photography. Of course, you could get some good shots without one. But having one will make your life a whole lot easier.
A tripod gives you more flexibility with your camera settings. You’ll use a narrow aperture, so a tripod will allow you to use a slow shutter speed without camera shake.
You’ll need a tripod with legs that can be adjusted independently. You’ll work in natural environments, and the ground will often be uneven. The tripod needs to give you a level platform to work from.

Photo by Yash Prajapati

6. Use an ND Filter to Capture the Perfect Exposure

During the golden hour, you often have bright areas contrasted with dark areas. With sunsets, the sky around the sun will be bright. And the earth and clouds are dark.
Even a camera with a good dynamic range can struggle to balance light and dark. An ND filter can really help address this issue.
A neutral density filter is a tinted piece of glass you can put over bright areas of your shot. It allows you to find exposure settings that suit the whole scene.
You can try exposure blending if you don’t have a filter set. You take two shots of your image. The first shot has your camera set to capture the bright areas. And the second shot has settings for the darker sections of the frame. You then blend the two images in post-processing.
If you try this technique, don’t move the camera between shots. The composition needs to be identical. And you’ll need to act quickly. The sun will sink fast, and you don’t want to miss the second shot.

Photo by Joris Linge

7. Look for an Ideal Location

Sunset is spectacular no matter where you are. But when you want to photograph sunsets, your location is crucial.
Scout out the best locations in advance. Take evening walks to find the best spots. You can take a smaller camera with you to experiment and generate ideas.
Find the locations where the sunset is at its most breathtaking. Think about composition and what you want your images to include. Perhaps some landmarks can make your sunset images unique.
If you’re traveling and don’t have the time to scout locations, ask the locals. They’ll know all the best viewpoints in the area.
Some handy smartphone apps can help you plan for a sunset shoot. Photo Ephemeris and PhotoPills are great apps that help predict lighting conditions for outdoor shoots.
It has to be in a location that is easy to access. You’ll carry all your gear on the day of the real shoot. Mobility won’t be as easy.

Screenshot of PhotoPills app

8. Plan Ahead to Capture Stunning Sunsets

A powerful sunset can make you think time has stopped completely. But when you’re shooting sunsets, you’re working against the clock. The sun sinks fast. And before you know it, the burning sphere has sunk below the horizon.
You should know your location already, so get there as soon as possible. Give yourself time to get set up before golden hour starts.
If it’s a location you’re heading to for the first time, set off early. Give yourself plenty of time in case you get lost.
The tripod needs to be flat and stable. And you need to get the camera framed just as you light it. This preparation means you can start snapping as soon as the sun begins going down.
You might miss the best shots even if you’re only a few minutes late. You don’t want to be adjusting your tripod legs when the sky explodes with color.

Photo by Vivek Doshi

9. Use Clouds to Add Dynamism to Your Sunsets

There’s an assumption that sunsets only work when you have a clear sky. But this is not true. If the sky is completely overcast, there won’t be much of a sunset. But having clouds in the sky can add something special.
Clouds are the perfect canvas for the setting sun’s last splash of color. They can add extra shades and tones. And they’ll enhance the sense of depth in your sunset images.
You cannot control the weather, so a large element of luck is involved. But don’t be disheartened if there are clouds in the sky. Embrace them. Watch how they move so you can plan your shots.
There are many different types of clouds. They can add texture to a smooth sky. And they can add depth to otherwise flat imagery. And they can hold color after the sun has sunk below the horizon.
The colors and textures often make clouds the most prominent element of your shot. They can steal the show. Use them to strengthen your sunset images.

Photo by Diego PH

10. Search for a Unique Perspective

For genuinely stunning sunset photography, you need your photos to stand out. There are millions of good sunset photos out there. But many are very similar and much the same.
Embrace your surroundings. Natural features or landmarks in the landscape can help identify your image. They can also help tie your photo to that specific location, making it more meaningful.
Water is another asset to the sunset photographer. It has a reflective quality you can exploit to make your sunset photos pop with color. And the surface also adds new textures. The ocean is an obvious choice, but pools and ponds are excellent too.
Don’t let the weather scare you. Don’t venture out if it’s dangerous. But if the conditions aren’t as you planned, head out anyway. It’s a chance for you to experiment. And you might end up with some stunning images you didn’t expect.

Photo by Chi Chen

11. Be Prepared for Outdoor Photography

If you live in a beachside villa, you won’t need to consider much other gear. But if your sunset shoot involves an excursion, there are other things you will need.
If you’re not familiar with the area, take a map. Smartphones have GPS capabilities, but you might run out of battery. A paper map won’t let you down.
If you’re shooting in a remote location, plan your route home. Things look different in the dark, and getting lost is easy.
A torch is an essential piece of equipment for a sunset shoot. Nighttime will have fallen when your shoot ends, and you’ll be in the dark. We favor a head torch as this leaves your hands free to pack up your gear.
Warm and waterproof clothes are important. You might work up a sweat hiking up to your location. But the temperature can drop fast once the sun dips below the horizon. And the rain clouds could close in at any moment. You don’t want to be caught in a rainstorm unprepared.

Photo by David Mullins

Conclusion

The natural beauty of a sunset can make some believe sunset photography is easy. But that’s not always the case. Sunset photography is a form of landscape that has a unique set of skills and considerations.
You need the right gear. And you need to know how to use it to make your images special. And great sunset photos have features that make them stand out.
We hope these sunset photography tips have helped you feel confident about shooting sunsets. Be confident and have fun. Go out and experiment with the information we’ve provided.
If you want to learn more about shooting sunsets and stunning night skies, check out our Shooting Skies eBook.

How to Use Sky Replacement in Photoshop 2024 (Step by Step)

Jenn Mishra — Thu, 17 Jun 2021 21:12:14 +0000

Sky replacement in Photoshop can be a lifesaver when the weather isn’t quite right. We can study weather apps, track the sun, and show up early to get the best light. But that doesn’t guarantee the weather’s always going to be perfect.
As a result, sometimes the sky in your frame is blank and boring. There are either too many clouds or not enough. Your composition deserves a better sky.
This article will show you how to use sky replacement in Photoshop. In a few clicks, you can turn a mundane sky into one that enhances your composition.
I tried to capture this composition over many days, but the sunrise was cloudless each day. The light on the peaks is nice, but the sky is simply blank. I can use a sunset captured on another day to enhance the composition.

When to Use Sky Replacement in Photoshop

First, let’s talk about when you should and maybe shouldn’t replace the sky.
If you’re creating artistic photographs, there is no reason you cannot replace the sky. If a new sky looks better to you, change it. But some genres of photography (photojournalism and travel) value the authentic experience. This means showing a blank blue sky or a wash of clouds.
Whatever you decide to do, be upfront about it. Do not try to hide a sky replacement. We understand that photographers edit images, and many make composites. Photographers make changes to create more artistic work. It is only a problem if you try to hide your edits.

Also, decide if you want to use stock images for your sky. There are many stock skies available online that you can use. Photoshop comes with a few, too. But remember, other photographers took these stock images. So, at least part of your photograph was taken by someone else.
Some photographers only use their own sky images. This way, the entire image is theirs, even if they took the sky photograph at a different time. Start a collection of sky images to use as sky replacements.

How to Change a Sky in Photoshop

We’ve always been able to replace the sky in Photoshop. The first step was to create a mask of the existing sky and then add a layer containing a new sky. But masking the sky could be tedious. It wasn’t easy to get around tree branches and other fine details.
In the 2021 update, Adobe added a Sky Replacement tool. This automated the masking and light blending that could take hours to do. Let’s go through the process step by step. We will start by using one of Photoshop’s default skies. Then we will show you how to use your own.

Step 1. Open the Foreground Image in Photoshop

Open your main composition in Photoshop. If you use Lightroom, go to the Photo drop-down menu and select Photo > Edit In > Edit in Adobe Photoshop (Ctrl or ⌘E). Otherwise, right-click on the image and select Open With > Adobe Photoshop.

Step 2. Open the Sky Replacement Workspace

Go to the Edit drop-down menu and click Edit > Sky Replacement. The sky replacement panel appears.

If you do not see the Sky Replacement tool under the Edit menu, update your Photoshop to the newest version. If the Sky Replacement option is greyed out, select the background layer in the Layers panel and try again.

Step 3. Select a Sky

A new sky is applied to your image. To see other sky options, click the carrot next to the sky thumbnail. Photoshop includes about two dozen skies in the folders Blue Skies, Spectacular, and Sunsets. As you click through each sky, the preview automatically updates.
You do not always have to use the most spectacular sky. Sometimes soft clouds or a blue sky are better for your image. Also, pay attention to the direction of the shadows and light. Sun placement in the new sky should roughly match the direction of light in your original image. You can flip the sky by checking the Flip box.

Step 4. Adjust the Sky

The new Sky Replacement tool does a good job of masking the foreground. But you can fine-tune how the new sky blends into the foreground using the Shift Edge and Fade Edge sliders. The Shift Edge slider changes the border between the foreground and the new sky background. The Fade Edge slider increases or decreases the feathering between the two.
You also have a few tools to the left of the sky thumbnail that let you manually adjust the sky. At the top is the Sky Move tool. You can grab and drag the sky around in the background. This is useful when you have a sky image with minor elements to hide behind your foreground.

You can also use the Sky Brush tool to erase or paint the sky onto the foreground manually. This tool alters the mask. The Hand tool and Zoom tool let you zoom in and move the image around for detailed editing.
You can also use the Scale slider to make the sky larger or smaller. Photoshop automatically scales the sky image, but you may want to change the position of the sky.

Step 5. Adjust the Lighting

Photoshop blends the light in your original image with that in the sky. Realistic sky replacements match the direction of the light and the color.
You can change the lighting using the other sliders in the Sky Replacement window. You can adjust the brightness and temperature of the sky. You can also tweak the lighting and color of your foreground to better match your chosen sky.
There are two options for the Lighting Mode—Multiply and Screen. These are familiar blend modes. Multiply darkens your image, and Screen lightens the image. Select the option that looks best.

Step 6. Apply Changes

Before you click OK, select how you want Photoshop to output the results. By default, the results are output as new layers.
This option creates a new Sky Replacement Group in your Layers panel. Within this group is a Sky layer with a layer mask, a Foreground Lighting layer with a layer mask, and a Foreground Color adjustment layer. This option allows you to continue editing the sky replacement masks and lighting.
The other option is to output as a duplicate layer. This option combines changes into one layer. This limits your ability to edit the sky replacement.
Click OK.

Adding your Own Sky Images

There are a couple of added steps if you want to import your own sky. But once you add a sky, it is available for future use.

Step 1. Open the Original Photo in Photoshop

Either round-trip the photo from Lightroom into Photoshop or right-click on an image and open it directly in Photoshop.

Step 2. Select a Sky Image

Choose a file containing a replacement sky and save it as a JPEG or TIF file. Don’t worry if the file is not the same size as your foreground. Photoshop will scale the sky to fit the image.

Step 3. Open the Sky Replacement Workspace

Go to the Edit drop-down menu and click Edit > Sky Replacement.

Step 4. Import Your Sky

Click the carrot next to the sky thumbnail. Then click the gear symbol. Select Import Skies > From Images. You also have the option to Create New Sky Group. If you intend to import many skies, create a new group to help you organize your files.
Navigate to your saved sky file. Click Open. The new sky thumbnail is added and available as a sky replacement.

Step 5. Adjust the Sky and Lighting

Use the sliders in the Sky Replacement window to adjust how the sky blends with your foreground.
I took the sky image about eight hours later but within 10 miles of the original photo’s location. Photoshop’s Sky Replacement tool allowed me to make a composite image of the two photos.

Mirroring Sky Replacement

One limitation of the Sky Replacement tool is that it does not recognize sky reflections. It does a good job of masking the sky. But the tool ignores the sky’s reflection. To reflect a sky replacement, duplicate the layers that Photoshop creates and manually flip them.
You will need to unlink the layers and drag the mask to a new blank layer. Then vertically flip both the sky and the layer mask. Reposition the mask and the sky. Reflections look more realistic if they are slightly compressed and darker than the original.
You may have to do some blending to make the reflection look realistic. You can also try adding a Gaussian blur.

Conclusion—Sky Replacement in Photoshop

Sky replacement in Photoshop makes it easy to replace a sky in your photos. The program masks the sky and suggests blending and lighting options to make your new sky look as natural as possible. But if you do not like Photoshop’s results, you have a lot of flexibility. For example, you can import sky files, and you can change the color and lighting of both the sky and the foreground.
Photoshop is the only Adobe program that has the Sky Replacement tool. You will need to round-trip files from Lightroom into Photoshop if you want to change the sky. Photoshop Elements has a background replacement option. But this does not work as seamlessly as Photoshop’s Sky Replacement tool.
Next time you are out taking photographs, and the sky is spectacular, take the shot. You may not have a good composition in front of you. But you can use this sky later when you find a good composition with a lackluster sky.

Try These 15 Techniques for Perfect Rain Photography

Dora Jokkel — Wed, 02 Jun 2021 19:42:43 +0000

Rain photography is an excellent way to add more excitement to a scene, be it street, landscape, macro, or product photography.

Our article will show you a few techniques to take advantage of on a rainy day using texture, composition, and reflections.

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15 Techniques for Perfect Rain Photography

Don’t let a rainy day stop you from taking pictures! Get out and try these 15 techniques to improve as a photographer.

1. Choose the Right Equipment for Rain Photography

Having the right equipment is the most crucial aspect of rain photography. You want to protect your camera body, lenses, and yourself.

You will need a waterproof camera case or a rain cover for your camera body. You might also need a weather-sealed lens or waterproof lens hood. A waterproof camera bag and lens cap are also essential when taking rain pictures.

If you’re caught in the rain without this equipment, at least have a plastic bag and wrap it around your gear. And do not forget to pack waterproof clothing and a raincoat for yourself!

A tripod can also come in handy when photographing on a rainy day. Some scenes look better with long exposures, and you must keep your camera steady.

Moreover, rainy scenes look even better at night when all the lights create reflections. A tripod is a must-have item for taking night photos if you don’t use an external flash or light.

2. Use Juxtaposition for Unique Compositions

Juxtaposition is one of the best compositional rules of photography. You place a subject next to another or in a scene that contradicts the original idea or message.

One way to show great rain photography is to place a subject that would not usually find its place there. Mixing rain and fire, for example, makes for a powerful and symbolic shot.

3. Shoot the City Through a Rain-Covered Window

Cityscapes do not have to be picture-perfect. You do not always need traditional correct exposure and the usual composition. Here, you can use rain to show a different side of a city.

The city is in the background and out of focus in our example photo below. The rooftops and buildings are not sharp. Instead, the focus is on the water droplets.

Because of this close-up of the raindrops themselves, the city becomes an impression. It’s a great way to show a place through shape, color, and textures.

4. Create Portraits With Umbrellas

Umbrellas add shape, form, color, and texture to a photo. On top of this, they add the metaphysical idea of protection.

Umbrellas are also great tools to add narrative to your rain photography. A couple protecting themselves from the rain and the outside world can convey a romantic mood.

They can also be a natural frame for your subject. And you can have an umbrella blocking unattractive areas in your scene. They can also work as very abstract elements in your photo.

5. Add Texture to Macro Photos with Rain

Macro photography is already amazing, and rain makes a story more interesting. It sets the scene and adds texture to an otherwise drab background.

Macro photography involves wide apertures. This means that the background is completely out of focus. It might show colors, but the rain adds texture.

Grab your best macro lens and try it out. You might even find that some subjects in your scene react differently to the bad weather.

6. Create Unusual Setups for Surprising Product Photography

Product photography balances real situations and those that feel too set up. Using rain brings powerful ideas and connotations to your products.

Rain and splashing water are perfect for a realistic, atmospheric setting. Make sure to use a fast enough shutter speed to capture and freeze the motion of the waterdrops.

7. Capture Reflections

Rainfall that collects on sidewalks, streets, and roads creates beautiful reflections.

The great thing about reflections is that you get to show two different sides of the same area. You get the texture in the foreground. And buildings, shapes, and forms hang out in the background.

Changing your perspective has a significant effect on your photography. Try photographing reflections from an upside-down perspective.

And rain is the perfect setting for a top-down shot. Reflections in puddles will make the world look upside down. In this way, water functions as a mirror and creates a collage-like effect. So you get two pictures in one.

8. Freeze Raindrops

Rain moves so fast. It often appears as slight blurs in the shot. And these dashes of light and texture act as secondary subjects. But if you change your shutter speed, you can make them more important.

A long (slow)) shutter speed allows you to create motion blur. By using a fast shutter speed, you can freeze any movement.

Keep in mind that shooting in the rain causes less intense lighting conditions. So don’t forget to raise the ISO or set a wider aperture for correct exposure and a dramatic shot.

Falling rain becomes heavier, almost glass-like, with a defined shape and form.

9. Shoot in the Rain for Unique Wedding Photos

Wedding photography can all look somewhat similar. After all, there are only so many ways you can pose a happy couple, right? Wrong. You can make unique images by using rain in your shots of the couple.

Take advantage of the romantic nature of rain for some sweet moments. Your clients won’t forget them. But don’t forget to prepare them with appropriate clothing and an umbrella. (And remember to protect your gear, too.)

10. Fire a Flash to Highlight Shapes

A flash is a handy device to have in any photo situation. (Read articles on the best Canon flash and best Nikon flash.) And you might need extra light with all the clouds and umbrellas everywhere.

Flashes can help you freeze movement. Without a flash, falling rain is hardly noticeable. But with one, you can make the raindrops stand out as the light reflects back toward the camera. This is why you do not want to use a diffuser on your flash.

By firing a flash, the shape and form of the raindrops become obvious instead of vanishing into obscurity.

11. Use Rainy Scenes for Creative Abstract Photography

Nothing screams abstract more than rain. We know what we are looking at, but not really.

Try photographing traffic lights through the raindrops on your car window. And see what crazy, interesting shapes you come up with.

You can place the focus anywhere. And by using a wide aperture, you can create bokeh effects in the background.

You can even try to do long exposures with “intentional camera movement” (ICM) and see what kind of surreal photos you get.

12. Use Condensation for Soft Focus

If the weather is wet and cold outside, you can guarantee the temperature is warm inside. This brings condensation onto anything glass-covered.

This makes street photography more interesting. Now you have a milky scene of mystery in your shot.

You might get a soft focus on your subjects and keep their identity hidden. You can get amazing results in shape, form, and color. In this case, choose your autofocus modes wisely or use manual focus with focus peaking.

13. Include Dark Clouds for Mood

Rain can have a moody effect on your image. It depends on your scene’s colors, textures, lighting, and angle. But you can capture moody and dark landscapes.

Not all rain clouds are dark, but those can make you feel like the apocalypse is on the horizon. Use this idea to your advantage. Look for areas in your scene that can emphasize this moodiness.

Also, include people in your pictures. Their presence and reactions can enhance the impact of the weather and oncoming rain.

14. Incorporate Shapes and Forms for Unusual Composition

Shapes and forms are two of the simplest yet most important composition tools. Like abstract rain photography, you do not need to document rain factually.

Seeing your scene in a different light or perspective can turn it into something creative.

Get closer to the raindrops to change the idea around them. Or get them to fill more of the frame. And you will find interesting shapes and forms. Using a macro lens, you can even capture reflections inside raindrops!

15. Chase a Storm

If you see adverse weather coming your way, do not avoid it. Too many photographers prefer to stay indoors. But extreme weather photography provides a wealth of photo opportunities. Just be safe about it. Don’t put yourself in jeopardy.

Dark clouds add moodiness, and rain adds nostalgia. Together, they make for some striking images. You can also photograph lightning to add even more drama to your images.

Conclusion: Techniques for Perfect Rain Photography

Next time there is a downpour, do not hide indoors with your camera. Grab it and have some fun in the rain! Just don’t forget to keep your camera dry. Bring your lens hood, a camera bag, and a rain cover. (A plastic bag works in a pinch!) Also, wear a good storm jacket!

Use the 15 ideas from our article to get stunning rain photography. And check out our Shooting Skies course for even more tips on catching amazing photos of ominous rain clouds!

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How to Photograph Lightning (Techniques for Maximum Impact)

Simon Bond — Mon, 21 Sep 2020 09:50:04 +0000

Photography is all about capturing a moment in an instant. Nothing is more instant than a bolt of lightning.

Learning how to photograph lightning is not easy. Getting that great shot at exactly the right time takes practice. But there are many strategies to help improve your lightning photography.

Lightning Synchronization

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Photograph Lightning: Checking the Weather to Predict When Lightning Will Strike

Lightning storms tend to happen after a period of hot weather.

In Europe, for example, lightning storms are a lot more common towards the end of summer and the beginning of autumn.

There are many apps and websites to help us figure out when to get out there and shoot lightning. Windy.com is my favourite. It has detailed information on lightning strikes down to the minute.

You can also check out your national weather service website.

Amol Mande Pexels

Choose a Suitable Location to Capture Lighting

When thinking of the location to shoot lightning from, consider the following:

Find a good vantage point – You need a clear line of sight off into the distance for lightning shots. An ideal location may be the balcony of an apartment building a few miles away from the storm.

Face the storm – It is important to check the to know the direction of the storm. Ideally, you’ll be photographing the lightning bolt as the storm approaches. You must be quick and cautious, so you are ready to get to shelter once the storm arrives.

Stay safe – Choosing a location that ensures lightning safety is important. Focus on staying high but not on the roof or at the top of a hill. It is also important to stay away from trees, metal poles, or street cables. The balcony of a high building offers you both protection from the rain and any stray lightning bolts.

Add interesting foreground – For a stronger lightning photo, add a point of interest to compliment the lightning strike. Look for a location that gives you both a high vantage point, and a good foreground subject. Try to find a composition that looks good even without lighting. This will give you a more interesting lightning photo.

Alex Powell – Pexels

Use a Tripod to Keep Your Camera Steady During Storm Photography

You’re very likely to be standing in the strong wind while photographing lightning. You must focus on keeping your camera steady.

In a pinch, you might be able to use a wall to steady the camera. Or you can balance your camera on top of your camera bag.

A sturdy tripod is the best solution since you’ll be shooting exposures of up to 30 seconds. I recommend using an external shutter release or cable release. With these, you won’t need to touch the camera while you’re photographing lightning.

Flat areas with good visibility are great for lightning photography.

Use an Intervalometer to Ensure High-Quality Lightning Images

When photographing lightning, we want our camera to remain as still as possible. Sometimes, even pressing the shutter button might interfere in our camera steadiness and create a blurry photo.

Using an intervalometer for photographing lightning can increase the quality of your photo and make the photoshoot easier.

Here are a few benefits of using an intervalometer when photographing lightning:

Sharper images – Using an intervalometer can increase the chances of getting a good lightning photo, as it allows you to shoot without touching the camera. Once you focus, you don’t have to press the shutter button again, which might cause camera shake and reduce the quality of the image.

You can take a series of photos over a period of time – An intervalometer can also help to shoot a series of photos for several minutes. This is a huge advantage as we don’t know exactly when the lightning bolt will show up. If you don’t have a lightning trigger, using an intervalometer will increase your chances of catching the lightning.

Protect Your Gear to Avoid Water Damage

When shooting lightning, you are very likely to shoot under the rain. Even a small amount of water may damage your equipment. If the water gets onto the lens, it may distort your photo and ruin the whole shoot.

If possible, use a lens filter to keep your lens protected. For the camera, if you don’t have a rain sleeve you can use a one-time-use camera rain sleeve. These are designed to keep your gear dry. If you don’t have any time to prepare for the bad weather you can always go for a plastic bag or even a shower cap.

Make sure to bring a micro-fiber cloth with you so you can wipe the camera if needed. Be cautious and keep the rest of your gear in a waterproof case.

The blurred dots on this image are from rain on the lens

How to Capture That Perfect Moment When Lightning Strikes

Broadly speaking, there are two approaches you can take when photographing lightning. One uses long exposure, the other a specialised lightning trigger.

The first one takes more patience. You have to hope for a bolt of lightning to strike as you keep your shutter open. The second consists of a gadget that tells your camera to take a photo when it detects lightning.

In both cases, make sure to have your camera on a tripod, enough space on your memory card, and an extra battery.

Setting Up Your Camera

The initial setup for both approaches is the same.

First, you need to establish a storm is coming. Then, choose your location, set the camera up on a tripod, and think about your composition.

Ensure you have an appropriate focal length to capture the lightning bolt. With storms that are far into the distance, a longer focal length is better. As the storm approaches, a wide-angle lens will better capture the entire scene.

Try to include a large part of the sky in your frame. You won’t capture lightning otherwise. Make sure the lightning strikes are happening inside your frame. Otherwise, you will need to recompose your photo.

Focus your photo using the camera’s manual focus. The best way to focus lightning is to use the camera’s live view setting and choose a point in the mid-ground. Zoom in to this portion, and focus the camera to ensure sharpness. Once focused, keep the camera’s manual focus on, to ensure you keep focus.

Set your camera’s white balance to “auto”. If you want to give your photo a “blue cast” I suggest changing to a “cooler” white balance. This usually goes well with the lightning scene.

Take a photo or some test shots of the scene in front of you at f/8. In some cases, the lightning strike will leave you with an underexposed photo. But the photo you take now will allow you to blend the lightning photo and a regular photo for correct exposure.

The Long Exposure Approach

The idea behind this approach is to make your camera settings expose for an extended period. The aim is to capture a lightning strike during long exposures.

Change your camera settings to underexpose the scene at -1EV. You may need lower if the lightning strikes are nearby. You’ll want to set the shutter speed to be at least 5 seconds.

If you are close to the storm, you won’t need an exposure of more than 15 seconds. If the storm is still far, you can start with 30 seconds or try the bulb method.

Set your aperture and ISO accordingly. I would begin with an aperture between f/5.6 and f/8, and ISO 100. Of course, this will depend on the shutter speed you decide to set.

Try shooting some photos as soon as you see the first lightning. Then, change the ISO depending on the exposure. If you’re photographing during the day you may need to use a strong neutral density filter. This filter locks some of the light coming into the camera and helps to make longer exposures.

Use an external shutter release or cable release. Keep the shutter locked so the camera continues to take photos. With this, you’ll be able to take a series of photos for several minutes. Also, your chances of catching the lightning will increase.

Continue taking photos until you can capture the bolts of lightning. Taking photos this way, especially as you’ll want to use RAW, will use up space on your memory card quickly. Ensure you have a large memory card and replacements.

To learn more about long exposure, check out our Infinite Exposures course!

Photo by Nick Kwan from Pexels

The Trigger Approach

The second method for lightning in photography is to use a specialised trigger. This works by detecting a big change in the light levels that will trigger an exposure.

With this method, you won’t have to leave the shutter open for ages. Once you set up the lightning trigger it will know the exact time to shoot the photo.

This instant trigger is a definite improvement on the long exposure technique. Here’s why:

One frame – You no longer have to take many photos in the hope of getting the one frame that includes a lightning strike. This saves space on your memory card. And it prevents your camera from deteriorating from taking many photos.

Better definition – With a trigger, you get a better chance of capturing the detailed elements of the bolt of lightning. Also, you’ll be able to use a larger aperture since you no longer need a long exposure.

Easy to use – Lightning triggers work well for either beginners or professionals. They are easy to use and some of them can be linked to a smartphone and be controlled wirelessly.

There are plenty of trigger systems on the market to choose from. Some of the best ones are the Pluto, and the Nero triggers. You can use these triggers for other forms of photography, not just lightning.

Let’s look at how to photograph lightning using a trigger.

Set up your camera.
Your camera’s shutter speed should be set to expose at around 1/15th second. Use the aperture to get the correct exposure level for the scene you’re photographing. During the day you can have your camera on shutter priority mode. At night, it’s best to have the camera in full manual mode.
Attach the lightning trigger to your camera. Adjust the sensitivity of the sensor according to your current conditions. It’s often the case you’ll need to use some trial and error before you find the sensitivity sweet spot.
Now, wait, and allow the camera to take exposures as the lightning storm passes by.

Getting an elevated position is not always possible. As long as you can see the sky though, you still have a possible photo.

Conclusion

Now you know everything about taking photos of lightning. It’s time to put that knowledge into practice.

Next time you hear a storm is coming, grab your camera and tripod and find the perfect spot. You’ll need practice and patience to get the best result, but it’s very rewarding when you get it right.

Remember to stay safe. Shooting lightning is fun, and the results may be great, but your safety is the most important.

As always, please share your thoughts and any photos you have in the comments section!

8 Helpful Tips for Capturing the Best Cloud Photography

Chad Verzosa — Tue, 14 Jul 2020 14:21:45 +0000

Many people think clouds are only important for landscape photos, but this isn’t true. Clouds can effectively shape the mood of many kinds of photos.

Whatever type of photography you’re into, here are eight tips to shoot amazing cloud photography.

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8 Best Tips for Capturing the Best Cloud Photography

The sky’s canvas is ever-changing. And capturing stunning cloud photography can be captivating and rewarding. Here are eight tips to help you master the art of photographing clouds.

1. Look for Different Clouds to Create Different Moods

There are many types of clouds out there. Each has its own way of influencing how your photo appears. So it’s a good idea to know the different kinds of clouds to look for.

If you want your photo to look vibrant, shoot cumulus clouds. These puffy clouds appear when the weather is good.

Consider the more flat, grey, and patchy stratocumulus clouds for a more serious vibe. Or stratus clouds on overcast days or rain clouds are good for portraits.

If you’re after a dramatic effect, take pictures of the big, scary cumulonimbus clouds. These towers or columns of clouds appear when a big storm is on the way.

Here are four examples (starting from the top left and going left to right):

Dramatic cumulus clouds forming over a cityscape in Kyiv, Ukraine
An aerial sunrise with a stratocumulus-cloud sky at Macmasters Beach in Australia
Formation of thunderstorm cumulonimbus above a field in Normandy, France
A child’s portrait with rain clouds in the background

2. Pay Attention to the Weather Forecast

Forecasts provide lots of information if you’re interested in taking cloud photos. They’re very useful for capturing a location in a specific type of weather.

If you’re waiting for storm clouds to approach an area you have in mind, you’ll know when to prepare. And if your location has a weather radar you can access online, take advantage of it.

Weather radar shows real-time results in a more concentrated area. And it’s more accurate than the ones you see on national TV.

The radar map shows you where the clouds are and where they may be headed. In most cases, it has a scale that indicates the severity of the weather.

Green spots on the radar map mean there could be light rain. Purple spots represent severe storms.

But you shouldn’t worry even if you don’t have access to radar. You can still use the regular news forecast to help you guess what types of clouds to expect on the day of your shoot.

If your local weatherman says there will be a thunderstorm, prepare for cumulonimbus clouds.

You can also check The Weather Channel for accurate predictions. And you can also download the Weather Channel apps for iOS or Android.

(Adobe Stock)

3. Choose the Right Camera Settings

You don’t need deep technical knowledge to take pictures of clouds. In fact, you can even get away with using auto settings. But these tips will help you make the most of those dramatic clouds.

First, set your ISO between 100 to 800. If it’s bright outside, then use 100. As it gets dark, you can use higher values until you reach 800.

Try not to go any higher than 800 ISO. Otherwise, you might end up with pictures that look noisy and grainy.

Next, set your aperture between f/11 to f/16. The deep focus produced by these f-numbers ensures that everything in your frame is sharp.

You can choose from a few options for shutter speed depending on what you want to achieve. If you want to try long-exposure photos (more on this below), you’ll need to use Manual mode.

But in most cases, you can set your camera to Aperture Priority mode. Then let your camera decide the shutter speed for you.

62mm, f/11, 1/500 s, ISO 200. Abhinav (Unsplash)

4. Get Creative with Long Exposure Cloud Photography

Using normal shutter speeds at night would result in underexposed images. But long-exposure photography is useful for capturing clouds in the evening.

When you open the shutter for a long time, the camera sensor gathers more light for proper exposure. And anything in the frame that moves while the aperture is open will become blurry.

That sounds like bad news in most cases. But it creates surreal effects when shooting clouds. In fact, the longer you keep your shutter open, the fuzzier the clouds will look.

You must switch your camera to Manual mode to create a long exposure. Once you’re in that mode, set your aperture somewhere between f/11 to f/16. It will depend on the lighting conditions.

If it’s dark enough, f/11 will suffice. But if it’s still too bright out, then try f/16. Most lenses have a minimum aperture size of f/22. But we don’t recommend you use it due to diffraction.

Shot at night with a blood moon. 18mm, f/3.5, 90 seconds, ISO 400. Owen Rupp (Unsplash)

When the aperture is too narrow, light struggles to go through. And this lack of light results in blurry photos.

After you set your aperture, you can adjust your shutter speed for up to 30 seconds. Then take a test shot. If it’s overexposed or underexposed, bump it up or down until you get the proper exposure.

If you want to create an exposure longer than 30 seconds, use Bulb mode instead. This function lets you keep the shutter open for as long as you have your finger on the button.

This process involves a lot of trial and error. But in general, shorten the exposure time if it’s overexposed and lengthen it if it’s underexposed. And take test shots until you get proper exposure.

Use a Tripod to Stabilize Your Camera

It’s usually okay to handhold your camera while taking pictures of clouds. But when shooting long exposures, don’t forget to bring a sturdy tripod in your camera bag.

A tripod is essential when you’re doing long-exposure photography. It keeps the camera stable while the shutter stays open and prevents motion blur.

When shooting cloud photos at night, consider using a remote shutter. This ensures there’s no camera shake.

Touching your camera, even when secure on a tripod, can introduce movement. And this will make your photo look fuzzy. You can prevent this if you trigger your device without any wires.

15mm, f/5.6, 1 second, ISO 100. Kub Liz (Unsplash)

5. Use an ND Filter for Unique Results

You can’t shoot long-exposure photography if it’s not dark enough. If you leave the shutter open too long and there’s too much light, your photo will be overexposed.

One way to shoot long exposure in daylight is by using neutral density (ND) filters. Think of them as sunglasses for your lens. They limit the light entering the glass. So you can use slower shutter speeds.

Each neutral density filter has an ND number representing the amount of light it limits. The higher the ND number, the more the f-stop reduction you get.

For instance, if you use ND2, you get one f-stop reduction. With ND4, you get two. And with ND8, you get three, and so on. F-stop reduction is the number of stops the filter trims off the regular exposure.

18mm, f/10, 1/200 s, ISO 100. Andre Antonelli (Unsplash)

Say your shutter speed is at 1/4000 s and can’t go any higher. Putting on an ND2 filter with an f-stop reduction of one lowers it to 1/3200 s (one stop).

Using different ND filters create different effects for creative cloud photography. If you want blurry clouds, you can use ND16. This prevents a lot of light from coming through.

If you’d like the effect to be subtler, use ND2 or ND4. Their f-stop reduction is smaller.

You can always try out some CPL filters in case you don’t want any significant reduction in shutter speed. And experiment with different options until you get the photo you like.

6. Try Cloud Photography During Golden Hour

If you want to add dimension and color to your photos, shoot during golden hour. It’s the time after sunrise and before sunset when the sun casts a bright orange glow onto the clouds.

The sun is low on the horizon. This means that the golden hour produces shadows that highlight the shape of the clouds. So they end up looking fuller and more dynamic.

40mm, f/5, 1/160 s, ISO 400. Vidar Nordli-Mathisen (Unsplash)

7. Include Landscapes in Your Images

Try photographing clouds over an impressive landscape. It will give your images some context and make them more relatable to people.

You can incorporate anything from trees to mountains. Even buildings work!

Capture bigger portions of the sky, even if you are unsure if you want to incorporate all of it. You can always crop it later in post-processing.

Shot with an iPhone 13. An interesting, textured landscape mirrors the clouds above.

8. Zoom in to Show More Detail

You’d be surprised how you can create different cloud images when you zoom in and out of the sky. Snap a zoom lens on your camera and use its wide range of focal ranges to your advantage.

By shooting tight shots and wide shots of the same cloud, you have two to six photos at your disposal.

And if you move your frame a little bit and recompose your composition, you can achieve even more unique pictures.

50mm, f/14, 1/800 s, ISO 320. Colin Czerwinski (Unsplash)

Conclusion: Best Tips for Capturing the Best Cloud Photography

You don’t have to be a master photographer to shoot cloud photos. What’s important is how you use cloud photography to create different moods in your pictures.

Just keep your camera in hand because clouds move fast. If you encounter a beautiful cluster in the sky, snap some cloud pictures before they’re gone!

And next time your landscape or cityscape needs more impact, try adding clouds. All you have to do is look up. And maybe you’ll find some interesting ones to include in your photos.

Stability and Portability

Mactrem PT55 Travel Tripod

Capture stunning cloud photography with ease using a lightweight and stable tripod. Get creative with long exposures and different moods while keeping your camera safe and steady. Inspiration awaits!