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How to Use Intentional Camera Movement in Photography

Simon Bond
Last updated: March 20, 2024 - 9 min read
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There are many ways to apply intentional camera movement (ICM) to your photography, and we’ll show you how. Moving your camera during a long exposure is a great way to add creativity to your image.

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What Is Intentional Camera Movement in Photography?

Intentional camera movement (ICM) is a creative photography technique. It is when photographers deliberately move their cameras during exposure. This technique creates abstract or artistic effects, often emphasizing motion or blur.

It’s a creative tool for photographers to experiment with. It adds dynamic and unique elements to images to explore different artistic visions.

The idea behind ICM photography is to add the illusion of movement to a still image. Long exposure is crucial for this technique since it creates a lot of motion blur. You can achieve great creativity by slowing down your camera’s shutter speed.

When taking long exposures, the usual goal is to keep the camera still to produce a sharp image. Intentional camera movement delves into the opposite concept. Instead of keeping your device steady, you move it around to create colorful swirls and streaks.

An abstract sunset made with an intentional camera movement pan
Shot with a Canon EOS 6D, 1/40 s, ISO 100. Marcos Paulo Prado (Unsplash)
 

What Photo Equipment Do You Need for ICM?

You must use a camera that lets you change the shutter speed to create intentional movement. But you don’t need a fancy lens. A kit lens is perfect enough for this project. Apart from the camera, you’ll also need a few accessories for intentional blur photography:

  • ND Filters: There are times during the day when it’s too bright to use slower shutter speeds. In this case, using an ND filter is a good option. You don’t need a filter that’s too strong. An ND8 is enough to slow your shutter speed down. You can also look into variable ND filters.
  • Tripod: Photographers normally use this equipment to keep the camera still. But that’s not the aim of taking ICM photos. Instead, you can use it to control your movements better for cleaner effects.
  • Wide-Angle Zoom Lens: You can use any lens for ICM, but the wider your focal length, the more pronounced the effects. And a zoom lens offers another avenue of creativity to create movement.
Our Top Picks for the Best Equipment for ICM Photography
K&F Concept Variable ND2-ND400 ND Lens Filter (67mm)
K&F Concept Variable ND2-ND400 ND Lens Filter (67mm)
K&F Concept Variable ND2-ND400 ND Lens Filter (67mm)
Manfrotto Befree Advanced Tripod
Manfrotto Befree Advanced Tripod
Manfrotto Befree Advanced Tripod
Canon EF 16-35mm F/4L IS USM
Canon EF 16-35mm F/4L IS USM
Canon EF 16-35mm F/4L IS USM
Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 24mm F/1.4G ED
Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 24mm F/1.4G ED
Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 24mm F/1.4G ED
Sony FE 16-35mm F/4 G PZ SELP1635G
Sony FE 16-35mm F/4 G PZ SELP1635G
Sony FE 16-35mm F/4 G PZ SELP1635G
 

6 Methods for Intentional Camera Movement (ICM)

So, how is intentional camera movement done? As we’ve mentioned before, there are several methods to do ICM. Below are six main ways you can use this technique, but you can devise other ways.

1. Panning

Panning is the most well-known technique that involves intentional camera movement. Panning is following a moving object during an exposure.

The best shutter speed for this method is around 1/20 s (seconds). Generally speaking, shooting handheld is the better and more effective way to perform this. Panning aims to isolate the moving object from the background using motion blur.

Panning uses the same concept as intentional camera movement. In other words, you purposely move your camera to create a visual effect.

But the other idea behind “intentional camera movement” is to present a more abstract image. Unlike panning, ICM is more experimental. So, in this aspect, panning and ICM can sometimes be distinct.

Blurry ocean waves created by handheld panning for intentional camera movement
Shot with a Canon EOS 5D Mark IV, 300mm, f/25, 0.3 seconds, ISO 100. Dave Hoefler (Unsplash)
 

2. Straight Line Movement

This technique allows for either horizontal or vertical movement. But it’s best to aim to use only one direction. A straight-line movement usually only needs a 1/20 s exposure time. It’s rather like panning but without the moving object to follow.

This particular photography style doesn’t work for every subject. Here are four tips you can apply to help you get the best result:

  1. Find a Contrasting Scene: Applying this technique to a plain-looking scene is pointless. Instead, look for places with natural lines and differences in tone and color. An ideal place to try is a forest with dense rows of trees with colorful leaves.
  2. Use a Tripod: Photographing from a tripod is an excellent way to achieve gentle, steady, flat movement. It helps keep your camera moving steadily in one direction.
  3. End With a Quick Camera Movement: For the first part of your exposure, you can keep your camera still for the first few moments. As the exposure is about to end, move the camera quickly to create the motion blur you need.
  4. Use Slow Movement: You can intensify the strength of the blur across your image by slowly moving the camera. It’s a great way to create different images using the same technique. If you move the camera more slowly, you need a longer exposure time, so it’s best to do this from a tripod.
Abstract blue lines created by waves and shadows using horizontal intentional camera movement
Shot with a Canon EOS 5D Mark II, 210mm, f/19, 0.7 seconds, ISO 100. Kristin Charleton (Unsplash)
 

3. Camera Rotation

Another way to produce intentional camera movement is by rotating your camera. Imagine an axis running from your camera lens through your sensor or film.

You must rotate your camera around this imaginary axis with a smooth motion. This technique is usually done handheld but is also possible from a tripod.

Handheld

Extremely long exposure times aren’t suitable, so keep it to around 1/20 s. Look for locations with a variable light level from the top to the bottom of your frame. A light tunnel or a tree canopy works well.

Your image’s central point is likely sharp, with the blur more pronounced at the edge of the frame. Choose an interesting primary subject to rotate around.

From a Tripod

The camera can only rotate around the tripod’s axis, so it won’t be perfectly centered. But long exposures are possible, and slower movement can intensify the strength of the blur.

Look for a place surrounded by trees or tall buildings with long converging lines to try this technique from a tripod looking up.

Artistic spiral blur around a tree with circular lines created by rotational intentional camera movement
Shot with a Canon EOS R6. 35mm, f/22, 1/6 s, ISO 100. Marek Piwnicki (Unsplash)
 

4. Lens Zoom

Another way to use this effect is through a zoom movement. Instead of moving the camera, use a zoom lens to execute this technique.

As with camera rotation, this is another effect that can be handheld. The effect works best with a strong central subject you zoom in on. The following steps describe how you carry out the zoom burst technique:

  1. Select a central subject for the photo. It should not be too large. So, a person, statue, or small building works well.
  2. Select a location with mixed light on both sides and above you. A tree canopy works well for this.
  3. Now, zoom into the final focal length you will photograph. You need to pre-focus your lens at this focal length.
  4. Adjust the shutter speed to around 1/20 s.
  5. When ready, hit the shutter and zoom into your main subject. Slow down the zooming in as you approach the max focal length of the zoom burst. This slowed action makes the main subject sharper.

Shooting zoom burst photos from a tripod is an excellent option for keeping the camera steady. The result is cleaner, blurred lines.

Using a flash on the main subject of your photo can also work, especially if your point of interest is small. Use the second curtain sync when you do this so the flash goes off at the end of the zoom burst.

An artistic zoom burst shot with abstract converging lines over a blurry cityscape made with intentional camera movement
Shot with a Nikon D750, 70mm, f/4.0, 5 seconds, ISO 100. Chuttersnap (Unsplash)
 

5. Random Camera Movement

The final and most abstract form of camera movement is random camera movement. This method is the most difficult to use effectively. It’s the easiest way to produce a messy photo with no real point of interest.

A planned movement of some description is the best way to get good results here:

  • Create Shapes: Try producing predefined shapes, like stars or hearts. Doing so helps give your photo a narrative. These shapes will likely repeat across the frame.
  • Use Curves: Smooth motion and lines that curve can also be useful. Plan how your camera will move before you start the photo. Gentle curves, as opposed to scribbles, generally look better.
  • Use Short Exposure Lengths: Shorter exposures are better. A short-defined movement is easier to produce. The longer the exposure, the more likely the movement resembles a scribble.
  • Double Exposure: You can blend motion blur with a stationary element. In this case, using a tripod is ideal. The camera moves from a fixed position on the tripod head by moving around a tripod ball head.
Abstarct colorful shapes captured with random intentional camera movement
Shot with a Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ1000, 9.1mm, f/4.0, 1/5 s, ISO 80. Brigitte Elsner (Unsplash)
 

Conclusion: Intentional Camera Movement

If you love experimenting with your photography, these techniques could help. There aren’t significant rules for ICM or RCM (Random Camera Movement). Feel free to play around and surprise yourself with amazing results!

We’d love to see examples of your intentional camera movement. Have you tried any of the ICM techniques listed in this article before? Feel free to share your ICM images and experiences in the comments below!

Video Course
Infinite Exposures
Infinite Exposures
Unlock the secrets of captivating photography with this Video Course:

  • Learn to photograph waterfalls, waves, sunsets, and stars effortlessly.
  • Discover how to balance movement and stillness in your shots.
  • Master exposure settings easily, with or without a filter.